Installing digital sounder

E

ereediver

New Member
Jun 17, 2009
16
Ohio
Boat Info
300 Sundancer 2004
Engines
5.0 MPI Merc. Bravo III
Looking to install a DSM30 sounder unit for a fishfiner. I have a Raymarine C70 multi display unit. It is going into a 2004 300 Sundancer. Anyone have any experience with this. Namely how difficult is this? Also where is a good place to put the unit.
 
ereediver said:
Looking to install a DSM30 sounder unit for a fishfiner. I have a Raymarine C70 multi display unit. It is going into a 2004 300 Sundancer. Anyone have any experience with this. Namely how difficult is this? Also where is a good place to put the unit.
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simple, plug it into the unit and screw it under the dash. Do you already have the transducer or will you be installing it as well? If your installing the ducer is it a shoot thru or a thru hull?
 
There is already a transducer installed, I was reading the installation manual, and they seemed to make a big deal out of unit location to cut out interference. With the radar cable and everything else under the dash, I was a worried under the dash would not be an option.
One more thing. The transducer is currently connected to the gauges on the dash. I assume that you would just disconnect the transducer from the gauges, and plug it into the sounder.
 
It depends. Is the current sender being used by the c70? If not it may not be compatible. Also if the transducer is being used by the c70, it may not have the features you want for fishfinding. The good news if the transducer is the OEM unit the location will be fine. When I changed mine out i just knocked the old one out of the existing hole and installed the new one.

On my 280 I installed the dsm and compass computer under the cockpit wetbar. I did have to get a long seatalk wires to connect to a buss that then went to the display.

Henry
 
sfergson727 said:
Most likely the transducer that is installed is for the smartcraft, assuming you have it installed. That transducer is not compatible. ....
Click to expand...

I'm with Scott on this one. Since it's 2004 300DA I would assume that it's got similar setup as mine where existing ducer is hokked up to the SC gauges and won't work with RM units.

I did this installation last spring and it worked like a charm. I bought B60-20 RM ducer (temp and depth). Since I have two Chartplotters I have the depth showing on both. But, for additional convenience I also installed ST60 Tri-data.

The hardest part of the installation is drilling the whole on the bottom and and properly install the transducer.

I'll try to find the link to the thread where I posted my details (it looked like I just continued on someone else's thread on the same subject).
 
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We did what Scott did, had local MarineMax install the transducer next to the OEM transducer used by Smartcraft (this transducer is not compatible with the DSM30). The transducer we used is the thru hull Airmar B60-20, which compensates for the hull's deadrise. MarineMax placed the B60-20 next to the OEM transducer, 8" to stdb. I installed and wired the DSM30 (along with a bunch of other stuff). Mounted the DSM30 under the dash toward the top, SeaRay provided a couple nice grey Starboard panels for mounted the electronics. Access is reasonable if you remove the panels that hold the MFD to the dash. Like Scott I did not what to cut a hole in the hull, so let MarineMax do this. Our local (Clearwater) MarineMax is great, they know how to do things right the first time, and not more expensive that other quality marine service groups in the area.

When all was done (Radar, Fish Finder, Heading Sensor, SeaTalk switch, NMEA0183 Mux, Arch flood light) everything worked. The hardest part is routing the wiring, needed help from MarineMax for the radar cable getting down the arch.
 
Here's the link to the thread I've used (it's Vince's thread that I had continued)
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Thru Hull Transducer installed

Let me know if you have other questions.
 
I have the smartcraft setup, so much for the easy way.. Thanks for the replies.
 
Okay one more thing to add... First thank for all th input. Next does anyone know if a 2004 300 sundancer is a solid hull or cored? I was hoping this would be easy, but so much for that. Also I saw some suggestions on transducers. Are there ducers other than Airmar that are compatable with the raymarine.
 
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ereediver said:
.... does anyone know in a 2004 300 sundancer is a solid hull or cored? I was hoping this would be easy, but so much for that. Also I saw soon suggestions on transducers. I am other than Airmar are any others compatable with the raymarine.
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I think it should be solid, but to be 100% sure contact SR with your HIN and they can also email you similar drawing I've posted for my boat (in the link I provided).

The easiest way to verify compatibility is to go on RM site, pick your unit and click on "Related Products". Here's an example for C70: http://www.raymarine.com/ProductDetail.aspx?SITE=1&SECTION=2&PAGE=1921&PRODUCT=1676

After you find that DSM30 is in the list, drill down on it. Then, click on related products for DSM30 http://www.raymarine.com/ProductDetail.aspx?product=4125 and you'll a list of all compatible ducers.
 
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I installed a thru hull transducer for my garmin w/ depth and temp last season, it was very easy after my hands stopped shaking from nerves. theres tons of videos on you tube from the manufactures i watched the video and it was easy as pie. usually you install them ahead of your intakes to avoid air pockets. as stated already the technology moves so fast you need to purchase the correct sounder/ducer to match your unit my raymarine rl70c is so outdated i only use it for radar. good luck and dont sweat the install
 
Again many thanks, So going back to the smartcraft, With the smartcraft do you now have to devices that read depth and temp smartcraft,and multi unit. If thats the case would there be any ill effects to just replacing the smartcraft ducer with a C70 compatible one, and just leaving that function to the multi unit.
 
Sure, it's an option to throw away existing unit, but why mess up a working system. Over the years I found that systems redundancy is a huge plus and necessity in some cases (even recreational). On my 240 I always had two ducers and depthfinders. There were frequent occasions where one would stop showing readings while the other worked fine. Ever since having this setup on my boat I always think that depthfinders setup is among the first ones to have redundancy. So, I installed totally separate unit on my 320 and was very happy I did that. It saved me big time on my trip to LI last summer. So, I suggest leave existing system unchanged and get new ducer. You'll thank me later.

If you got few min to kill on a cold winter day, here's my write-up: http://clubsearay.com/forum/showthread.php?t=26021&page=12 (post #118)
 
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So with an existing C-80 Raymarine unit, if I wanted to add the fishfinder component to my boat I would need to get the DSM30 unit as well as the Airmar B60-20 transducer correct? If I don't have the kahuna's to drill a hole through the bottom of my boat, what would I expect to pay to have the transducer installed and the unit wired? Thanks and I agree with the redundancy aspect as my SC transducer had to be replaced under warrant during my first year of ownership and that is a LONG ride not knowing how deep the water is under your boat!!!
 
What usually fails first?? the transducer or the gauge??

I have Lowerance 3500 that came factory from S.R, and i'm not sure of its accuracy,
I thought i would change the gauge only to another compatible gauge from lowerance just to be on the safe side, last time i grounded my wife swears the gauge read 9' :huh:
 
billnpat said:
What usually fails first?? the transducer or the gauge??

I have Lowerance 3500 that came factory from S.R, and i'm not sure of its accuracy,
I thought i would change the gauge only to another compatible gauge from lowerance just to be on the safe side, last time i grounded my wife swears the gauge read 9' :huh:
Click to expand...

Bill,

From what I understand in your case, it doesn't sound like gauge has failed, if it showed 9'. The gauge will just display the data it receives, so if a data was passed, then it sounded like it did it's job. I don't see how a gauge would change the data from 1' to 9'.

Before making any big changes you first have to make sure that your transducer is clear of anything that can block the lense or plastic surface (on older plastic units). Also, if you saw 9' blinking it might have been a false reading. This happens when you pass thru shallow area. I get this all the time when I reach areas under 2.6' under the boat.
 
Thanks Alex,

I asked the marina to please not paint over the transducer when they paint the bottom,
i hope they know that in case the message does not go through...

i like the 3500...
 
Bill,

Don’t forget that non-painted surface may result in marine growth if you don’t use the boat often enough. So, it possible that you had something blocking a good signal. Even though I use my boat all the time I still periodically dive under to check condition of my underwater gear and transducers. If you don’t, then it’s something to add on your to-do list in the future.
 
Alex F said:
Bill,

Don’t forget that non-painted surface may result in marine growth if you don’t use the boat often enough. So, it possible that you had something blocking a good signal. Even though I use my boat all the time I still periodically dive under to check condition of my underwater gear and transducers. If you don’t, then it’s something to add on your to-do list in the future.
Click to expand...


OH! I thought the paint would interfere :huh:

maybe not??
 
billnpat said:
OH! I thought the paint would interfere :huh:

maybe not??
Click to expand...

I hope i didn't confuse you. Do not paint it. Just check periodically to make sure there's no marine growth.
 
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