Anchor windlass

wlsage

wlsage

New Member
Jan 8, 2010
13
Nebraska (Missouri River)
Boat Info
1995 250 Sundancer
Engines
7.4 Mercruiser w/Bravo III
Ok heres my first post. I have a 1995 250DA and I want to install a anchor windlass. I want it to be as if it where installed by the factory but I have nothing to go by. If anyone has any pictures or drawings or technical info on this I would be forever in your debt.
 
I wanted to do the same on my 240DA when I had it. There's not much info on this, but local MM wanted $2K for the job. Later on I saw an installation on (if I recall correctly) on 2008 240DA. If I'll find a picture I'll post it. Try to di a search on CSR, I think this topic was discussed in 240DA thread.
 
I owned a 95 250 with a factory windass... It is a Good Windless made in Barnegat, NJ... http://www.goodwindlass.com/ I did not see the one the boat came with on their site... Frankly, I would rather have a windless that can handle chain... The Good from 95 was rope only...
 
Here's a search that looks like it produced a couple of interesting threads (that '08 240 one is at the bottom). Wlsage: For you future reference, all I did was enter "windlass" as a "title only" search. You can get more specific, if you want.

http://clubsearay.com/forum/search....g_searchinfo=1&photoplog_searchquery=windlass

The big question will be whether or not it's pre-wired. Seeing as your boat is older, there's a better chance for that. Not guaranteed, but more likely than the newer ones.
 
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The instruction guide that come with a windlass is great as well as videos found on lewmar and YouTube. Two grand is a bit steep for running two wires aft from the bow and running them through a breaker then up to the helm for the up/down switch. Even a caveman can do it...
 
Good does sell the remanufactured windlasses that would match the OEM for you 250... Wiring should not be too difficult. You can access the attachment in the hatch in your bow where the mirror is... I would run the wires down the starboard side to your dash. I would also install dedicated power form your batteries to the dash switch...
 
So far, Thanks for all the info! Im glad to see that there friendly, helpfull people here! I plan to do the insallation myself sense im kind of a jack of all trades. I always approch a job with intensions of doing it right the first time which is why I try to ask the people who know. I have till spring to commit to this so i'll continue to research and look forward to more info form the great folks here. THANKS!!!
 
If you end up doing the project and if you are willing, I think others would benefit from pictures and maybe a step by step on how you did it.

I know that I couldn't do without my windlass. When I starting shopping for a cruiser, it was one of my must haves that I never compromised on. Good Luck and welcome to CSR.
 
GoodWindlass here. If you need help in figuring out how to install a windlas on you Sea Ray that is why we are here.

Rope / Chain windlasses are readily available and I would be more than happy to help.

Call 1-800-780-4655 to discuss and I will get you on the right path. Can send pictures if you want.

Thanks.

Good Windlass
 
Hey Good Windlass! Great to have you aboard.
Replaced the old OEM with the new F850 three years ago- and have never had a day when I regretted it...those Starboard adapters really make the change-over seamless.


JoSea021.jpg
 
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I installed one on my old boat, a 1994 270. As stated you want to run the wire directly from the battery to the dash, breaker and control switch there, then up starboard side, not too hard. Should use marine grade tinned duplex wire, more expensive but won't corrode, proper gauge for the draw of the windlass and the length of your run, heat shrink connectors. I installed a Progress, now Lofrans', rope chain vertical. Not sure how factory did it but I mounted to the rope locker deck lid, installed a 4 or 5 inch deck port hole to gain access through the lid once install was done. Then as a backing for the windlass used extra long SS bolts through windlass plate, deck lid, then through a 3" aluminum 'C' channel that spanned across wider than the deck lid opening to spread the load of the windlass so all the force was not applied to the deck lid and latch. Sounds a little out there but it worked well, never had a problem. Once bolted down the deck lid did not open thus the screw on-off port hole to gain access. I'm sure the factory had a different solution but I was in a hurry and couldn't find a factory install that spring so did my own deal. Have sold it and moved up so don't have pictures. Good Luck.
 
Lazy Daze said:
Here's a search that looks like it produced a couple of interesting threads (that '08 240 one is at the bottom). Wlsage: For you future reference, all I did was enter "windlass" as a "title only" search. You can get more specific, if you want.

http://clubsearay.com/forum/search....g_searchinfo=1&photoplog_searchquery=windlass

The big question will be whether or not it's pre-wired. Seeing as your boat is older, there's a better chance for that. Not guaranteed, but more likely than the newer ones.
Click to expand...

Dennis, what are the chances my boat is pre-wired?
 
ggiametta said:
Dennis, what are the chances my boat is pre-wired?
Click to expand...

Unfortunately, Gary, not good... as in... I'd be really surprised if it was. 10 - 15 years ago, the chances were much better. Take a real good look in your anchor locker for heavy gauge wires (probably about 8 gauge). You'll know it if you see them.

Adding a windlass isn't a terribly complicated thing to do. It just takes a little time to run the wires. Sometimes it takes a little fabricating when putting the windlass on the deck (dealing with the hawse pipe hole). That's where it gets to be expensive - having someone (like us) do it for you. At $95/hour we're still less expensive than most, but it does start to add up.
 
Again thanks for all the info. I think I've got a good mental plan now. Unfortunatly the boat is in storage so the pre-work details will have to wait till spring.
 
Thanks Dennis, I'll take a look when I can. Unfortunately it would take me longer to get it to you than it would take to install.
 
Oh, I didn't mean to actually bring it to us. I was just using us an example - meaning, having someone do it for you can get expensive, simply because of time/labor.
 
I am currently replacing my Good windlass with a Lewmar. Most Good's do not accept chain, and if your doing an overnight, and you want to get any sleep, you will need approx 15' of chain.

If you do a search on google for windlass's you will get some sites that compare the different brands. Some of these sites have installation recommendations. The installation of a windlass is really not that hard. The biggest pain will be running the wires if they are not there already.

Hope this helps.
 
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