making a bigger swim platform

L

lime4x4

Member
Jul 24, 2007
341
Palmerton,Pa
Boat Info
1986 268 searay weekender
Engines
5.7 vortec alpha
My current boat is a 1986 268 searay weekender. The current swim platform is the width of the boat and extends 18 inches. We would like to install atleast a swim platform that extends atleast 32 inches. I'm planning on building it my self. Should i just use marine plywood covered with fiberglass or would building an alum frame then bolting on that composite deck board be alright? I'm thinking the alum and deck board cause it would be alot lighter
 
How is the original constructed? Any plywood construction would have to be glassed really well to seal it all up.

Another construction you could use would be to make it out of solid wood strips. You cut say 3/4" stock into strips 1 1/4", and then laminate them to make a block that becomes the 1 1/4" thick. You don't have to make it solid, once you have an edge you can make say every other strip full length (beam), spaced with shorter pieces.

Traditionally, this constriction is done with teak. But at current prices the wood bill would be about $ 1000.00. However there are a number of other woods you could use, such as Mahogany, Spanish cedar, Ipe etc. that are used in wooden boat building as teak alternatives.

Henry
 
current swim platform is plywood core covered in fiberglass.I've been looking on the net. One guy built his out of cherry.It looks real nice.Hey has about 6 coats of clear epoxy on it. That was another thought i had. I have oak laying around that would probably be great for the frame. Epoxy it real good it should last a very long time. The boat is trailered so the most it stays in the water is around 4 to 5 days when we go to the cheseapeke bay area for 4th of july
 
true. I also was thinking of using a sheet of 3/4 plywood. Cut it to the shape i wanted. Cut slots into it for water drainage then glueing composite deck boards to it after epoxing the heck out of it. Then finish the raw edge with strips of alum.
 
Last week there were pictures of a new swimplatform that somebody built. They laminated two sheets of 3/4 starboard that had a diamond plate pattern molded into it. He suggested using a solid piece instead of laminating the two together. It was easy to work with; cut it to shape, router the edges and then add some stainless brackets, similar to your current setup and you are all done. No maintenance down the road!
 
lime4x4 said:
yeah but where do u get starboard that big?
Click to expand...

It's called King Starbard AS (anti-slip): http://www.kingstarboard.com/products/StarBoardAS.aspx

I can get the regular stuff in full sheets, but not this. ON EDIT: Actually, I could special order it. But there's a pretty hefty re-stocking fee from my suppliers if you don't want it. I think wood would look better, anyway.

For sealing the wood, how about this: http://www.marinetex.com/gluvit.html

I've never personally used it, but there's a sample at our store that's been there for about 20 years. Pretty neat looking stuff. It turns into a flexible, plastic type material. Not 100% transparent, but close.
 
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I'd like to see the platform made entirely of Starboard. Great stuff, but little structural strength and cannot span any significant length without sagging. With some stiffeners (like aluminum angle on the underside) it would work without a ton of brackets screwed into the transom.

Don't forget about the angled supports holding the platform to the transom. Adding a platform 14" wider will require you to find or fabricate larger angles.

I suggest you check some marine salvage yards online as it's going to be cheaper to find what you're looking for instead of building it (at least, a quality one).
 
I'm good with my hands and i like doing projects like this. If i go the wood route i was planing on building custum supports out of alum. My current platform is bolted at the transom then 4 ss tubes are bolted to the transom and extend out to the end of the platform
 
I'm getting my platform sent on Tuesday from a company called poly products. It's made of 1" think polyresin with stainless supports. He's making them custom and is half the price of fiberglass. I'm not sure if his website is ready yet but I can send you some pics if you're interested. I'm not affiliated with him, I was looking for one for a long time and his seems to be a good product for a better price.
 
I'm the one that made the Starboard swimdeck.I would have rather used a solid 1.5" sheet but that's about $1k.I got two 3/4" for $500 locally.I SS 5200/screwed them together.All pre-drilled and then shaved.The starboard tends to push when you drill it so be aware.I had to seperate it and then shave each hole in between the sheets.120 SS screws.The only screws heads visible are the ladder thru-bolts countersunk.I made a template out of backerboard then transfered it to the starboard and cut it out.Then router'd the edge and sanded it smooth.The starboard I got was the diamond plate patter non-skid.

It is saggy with no support but once those poles got under there it is solid.I've had 5 full-size makes on it and it moves less than a fiberglass stock one.Even moreso you could put another 2" aluminum angle where the poles meet the deck.We thought that was simply not needed.

Here are some pics.One pic with the girls looks like the deck is angled down...well it is...the whole boat is with all that weight.The best part is the deck is soft to the touch.We were going to make an aluminum one and then non-skid paint it but I thought that would still feel like metal and be hot on the bunz.
swimdeck003.jpg

glen09.jpg

swimdeck011.jpg

swimdeck009.jpg
 
How much weight did the Starboard add? Do you notice a difference in the way it drives or handles? Curious if she rides lower in back with the extra weight.
.
 
I think you have to be very careful about glassing over any kind of plywood for a swim platform. Any opening and it will rot almost immideatly
Last winter I built a 36" wide platform on a 27 ft Rinker. I used maple and mahogany glued up to form the platform. each strip was 11/4 by 3/4 wide. I created a pettern that left some open areas for drainage. The whole thing took about 40 hours over a period of 2 months. Not hard work but lots of sanding. Local welding co made brackets for me at a cost of $75. Use a 4x8 sheet of plywood to make a jig to get the transom curve and each strip will fall in place. I put down construction paper between the strips and plywood base to catch extra glue and to allow easy lift off grom the plywood, then sand any remaining paper off.
Going with wood is the cheapest (in my experienc) and prehaps the easiest way to go.
Good luck
 
I was thinking of using that idea for running new support braces as well. Thought it would be easier and it doesn't look bad either. My current line of thinking is using something like gluvit to 2 peices of 3/4 plywood then glueing composite deck boards on top or getting 2 peices of starboard for the base.
 
lime4x4 said:
I was thinking of using that idea for running new support braces as well. Thought it would be easier and it doesn't look bad either. My current line of thinking is using something like gluvit to 2 peices of 3/4 plywood then glueing composite deck boards on top or getting 2 peices of starboard for the base.
Click to expand...

Rather than going through all the trouble (and weight) of two pieces of 3/4 ply - although they would be lighter than the starboard - why not just build a sub frame out of aluminum angle stock (L-channel)? Sort of like the aluminum would be your joists. Lay it out on your garage floor the way you would build a stud wall on the ground.

Then build up the outer edge of the deck (think of how a laminate kitchen counter is done). Then rip a piece of the composite to about 2" and run it vertically around the edge of the deck. You'd have no "wood" issues going this way.

On edit: Plus, the gaps to release water tension and run-off are built-in if you leave a small gap between the planks the way you would for a house deck.
 
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That was my original thought. Build the shape i want out of wood. Then get 1.5" 1/8 thick alum angle. Bend it to the shape i need. Then add 1 inch square tubing (joists) I can weld the tubing to the angle for added support
 
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