Official 280 Sundancer Thread

JimT said:
The canvas is blue. Its leaving a hazy purplish stain.
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Jim, I am having the same problem on my '02 280. I have black canvas and I am getting the same purple haze. I have started laying a beach towel across the back bolster but I still get the problem. When I take the canvas off and the sun hits it for a few days the problem is not as bad - it seems to restore the color.

If you find a better solution let us know.

Jerry
 
Sea No Evil said:
Jim, I am having the same problem on my '02 280. I have black canvas and I am getting the same purple haze. I have started laying a beach towel across the back bolster but I still get the problem. When I take the canvas off and the sun hits it for a few days the problem is not as bad - it seems to restore the color.

If you find a better solution let us know.

Jerry
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Jerry,

I emailed Great Lakes Boat Tops about this problem. They asked me to send a photo along with the tag info which I will do this weekend. Based on the comment of chief scientist above I am wondering if it might be the vinyl uv treatment from Westmarine that is causing the top to bleedout. As you said, the stain seems to fade with sun and washing. I am now using a towel as you describe.

Jim
 
Hi All,

I just purchased my first 280, it is a 2006. The last owner snapped the VHF whip antenna and I want to replace it. I would like to do it myself, anyone tackle this one before? How hard is it and any tips?

Thanks
 
apolentini said:
Hi All,

I just purchased my first 280, it is a 2006. The last owner snapped the VHF whip antenna and I want to replace it. I would like to do it myself, anyone tackle this one before? How hard is it and any tips?

Thanks
Click to expand...

Hi apolentini,

Congrats on the purchase and welcome to the club. You will really enjoy your 280 and you will find this place to be a wealth of information.

I don't know about the antenna but here are 2 things that will help you get the most out of the forums: 1) Update your signature with details about your 280, specifically the power plant. Your location can help too. 2) Go to the "Who's Who" forum and introduce yourself and get to know others.

Welcome aboard!

.
 
apolentini said:
Hi All,

I just purchased my first 280, it is a 2006. The last owner snapped the VHF whip antenna and I want to replace it. I would like to do it myself, anyone tackle this one before? How hard is it and any tips?

Thanks
Click to expand...


Congrats and welcome!!

I replaced the VHF antenna this season on my 2005 280. If it is the same setup, and I think it is, the job should not tough.

  1. Cut the old wire at the mound point
  2. Unscrew (leave the mount) and javelin toss the old antenna
  3. Remove the radar arch access panel
  4. Clear out the locker under the cockpit sink
  5. Screw in the new Antenna
  6. Feed the wire though and down under the sink
  7. Tape both Old and New wires together
  8. Down below in the mid berth, remove the large side panel - you will have an easier time accessing the wires under the helm
  9. Pull the old wire (from mid berth) and feed it back up to the helm
It took me about 3 hrs, but that including time to figure out how to route it...Good luck!
 
Paul, your signature photo of your wake and the bridge reminded me of a discussion we have often....what should the perfect wake look like?
That is, when the boat is up on plane, and in my case and most others, with twin screws.
I say a flat wake right in the center and my wife says a more well defined rooster tail. As opposed to a waterslide torrent of gushing water like the first few seconds.
It's nice to know as a double check for optimum performance, I think?
 
I started to lose oil pressure in my starboard motor again today. Got home to the dock and there was condensation under the oil fill cap again. Oil on the dipstick is clean as it only has about 5 hrs on the fresh oil and new filter. I put the boat up on my lift and was washing off the outdrives and noticed the exhaust bellow is detached from the starboard drive. I think I may have found the cause of my water in the oil issue. Thoughts?
Is this a DIY job?
 
Can anyone give me a tip how to pull a cable from helm to bilge w/o drilling?

I installed a bilge sonar transducer for my new electronics this weekend and got it working with the cable strung across the deck. I had one of those "fish tape" gadgets electricians use and planned to snake it from the hole behind the helm(many wires down starboard side). I figured this would connect to the bilge but its blocked. When I look at this spot from the bilge it looks like Sea Ray sealed the heck out it and there is no opening to run the sonar cable through.
 
rhodyboater said:
Paul, your signature photo of your wake and the bridge reminded me of a discussion we have often....what should the perfect wake look like?
That is, when the boat is up on plane, and in my case and most others, with twin screws.
I say a flat wake right in the center and my wife says a more well defined rooster tail. As opposed to a waterslide torrent of gushing water like the first few seconds.
It's nice to know as a double check for optimum performance, I think?
Click to expand...

The faster the boat is moving the lower the rooster tail as you describe. The boat will be out of the water, and forcing the cross path behind you further. Weather that is more efficient or not... I can not answer. Engine factors come in to play.

The picture was taken on a calm day - through NYC. I was cruising around 30MPH. I always have the dual spray off each out drive.
 
roger275 said:
Can anyone give me a tip how to pull a cable from helm to bilge w/o drilling?

I installed a bilge sonar transducer for my new electronics this weekend and got it working with the cable strung across the deck. I had one of those "fish tape" gadgets electricians use and planned to snake it from the hole behind the helm(many wires down starboard side). I figured this would connect to the bilge but its blocked. When I look at this spot from the bilge it looks like Sea Ray sealed the heck out it and there is no opening to run the sonar cable through.
Click to expand...

Crawl under the cockpit sink and look to see how the wires for GPS (if installed) and VHF are run. There may be an access hole that would be just aft of the controls. There should also be an access hole directly above the holding tank and right behind the aft stbd speaker. You can run the transducer wire up through that hole over the partition on the aft end of the wet bar compartment and along the same route as the VHF antenna and GPS wires.

Henry
 
Henry Boyd said:
Crawl under the cockpit sink and look to see how the wires for GPS (if installed) and VHF are run. There may be an access hole that would be just aft of the controls. There should also be an access hole directly above the holding tank and right behind the aft stbd speaker. You can run the transducer wire up through that hole over the partition on the aft end of the wet bar compartment and along the same route as the VHF antenna and GPS wires.

Henry
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Henry,

It was a 2 person chore but your suggestion pretty much worked. The speaker hole above the holding tank gives easy access from above deck to below deck at bilge. The speaker hole near the cockpit faucit also had to be opened to direct the cable to the helm and back across top of the compartment.
Thanks!
 
Has anyone explored the option of installing an LCD TV inside the Radar Tower and powering it, and the digital cable box on 12v?

Yes the 280's do attract the blond's...
 
Getting ready to purchase a new, 2008 Sundancer...have narrowed our choices to either a Single, 496 mag DTS with Seacore technology (4 yr. warranty)(375hp)...
or twin 4.3 MPI A1 (220hp ea)...

Both boats have ac/hgt and 5.0 gen...full package, lots of upgrades on both...

One dealer is close by (Marine Max) and the other dealer is small, independent and 4 hours away...

So, any input would be greatly appreciated...thanks!
 
On bizniz said:
Getting ready to purchase a new, 2008 Sundancer...have narrowed our choices to either a Single, 496 mag DTS with Seacore technology (4 yr. warranty)(375hp)...
or twin 4.3 MPI A1 (220hp ea)...

Both boats have ac/hgt and 5.0 gen...full package, lots of upgrades on both...

One dealer is close by (Marine Max) and the other dealer is small, independent and 4 hours away...

So, any input would be greatly appreciated...thanks!
Click to expand...

Go with the twin engine setup.....

1) Better manuverability, especially around the dock.
2) Redundancy is nice if you are in the middle of the lake and lose an engine
3) More horsepower
4) Generally, better re-sale

Good luck and enjoy!
 
I agree to go with the twins. I was intimidated at first when I got mine this season, but after a short learning curve, I wouldn't have anything else!
Also, how will you handle the 20 hour maintenance if you buy from the far away dealer?
 
NorthvilleJim said:
Go with the twin engine setup.....

1) Better manuverability, especially around the dock.
2) Redundancy is nice if you are in the middle of the lake and lose an engine
3) More horsepower
4) Generally, better re-sale

Good luck and enjoy!
Click to expand...

I generally agree with the above depending on where you do your boating. If you are on an inland lake like me then the single 496 is a great option. Maneuverability is a non-issue once you get a feel for your boat. Think resale too...in my area, the single 496 is very common so resale is not an issue for me. Also keep in mind that maintenance is double with the twin-engine set up.

Bottom line, both are good powerplants for the 280. For the ocean or big waters, I'd go with the twins. Inland lake, go 496 to save on maintenance.

.
 
This has to be one of the most asked questions on CSR besides gas vs diesel and is it ok to use a portable generator. I don't recall anyone with any of the engine/drive combos that were not satisfied with it. I have the twin 5ltrs and boat on an inland lake. I love them. We had a dock neighbor with the same year boat and the single 496 that he set up for fishing in Lake Michigan and he also loved it. There are pros and cons to all 3 set ups. As said by many people in the past, drive them both and load them up when you do. I believe they all do in the mid to upper 40's for top end and cruise nicely in the low 30's. Good luck and keep us posted. I would not be afraid to go 4hrs to look at one.
 
ok, the tally says go with the twins thus far, but some have asked where we're boating....near shore gulf, icw and choppy salt bays/rivers....the twin engine boat is practically at our back door (marine max)...any comments about their service? thanks.
 
On bizniz said:
ok, the tally says go with the twins thus far, but some have asked where we're boating....near shore gulf, icw and choppy salt bays/rivers....the twin engine boat is practically at our back door (marine max)...any comments about their service? thanks.
Click to expand...
I have never dealt with MM but there have been alot of talk about the number of MM's closing. Don't let the location be the only reason to purchase. You may have to travel if the store closes. There are plenty of people with the 496 and love it. It does not meen I would buy one. Just my preference.
 
On bizniz said:
...(marine max)...any comments about their service? thanks.
Click to expand...

I have never had a problem with MM....always great to deal with from my own experience. I bought current and previous boats from them and I use them for regular service.

.
 
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