Freezer won't cool.

b_arrington

Well-Known Member
GOLD Sponsor
Feb 21, 2007
3,469
Setauket, NY
Boat Info
Back Cove 37
AB Ventus 9VL
Engines
Cummins QSC 8.3 600
I have a Vitrifrigo DW70 drawer freezer installed on my boat, and it is not working properly. Any smart folks that could perhaps confirm my thought that it's low on refrigerant?

DW70 drawer freezer, separate condenser unit, AC/DC power. Uses at Danfoss Secop BD35F compressor.

Symptoms:
  • Unit will not get cold. Worked before the boat was winterized. Does not get cold after de-winterization.
  • Temperature only gets to about 50F after many hours (days).
Diagnostics taken so far from aid from the Vitrifrigo and Secop manuals.
  • The cold plate is slightly cool, but not cold. No frost, no condensation.
  • The compressor runs continuously.
  • The compressor gets warm to touch (not hot).
  • Lines coming out of the compressor are neither hot nor cold.
  • Fan runs.
  • Radiator fins are clean and clear of any debris.
  • Compressor has plenty of ventilation.
  • Jumping the thermostat to force the compressor to run had no effect.
  • Using a known good 12v LED lamp to look for error codes had no result. LED did not light with error codes.
  • Confirmed compressor has continuity and no open shorts (it's running, so not surprised).
  • No difference when running on DC or AC power.
With all this stuff, I thinking it's a low refrigerant problem. I have a feeling testing for a leak is a little beyond my skill set, but if not I'm game to try it.

I did notice a little corrosion on the compressor around the seam between the top and bottom parts but nothing major.
 
I had a NorCold refrigerator/freezer a few years ago doing same. There are no ports to hook up refrigeration gauges. However, they make what is called a Bullet Piercing Valve. It goes on either the high or low side, can't remember, and with it installed, refrigerant pressure can be checked and refrigerant added. Maybe the Vitrifrigo has the valves. Installing the piercing valve was simple and bought me a few years on the old NorCold.

Bennett
 
I would also venture to guess that you're low on Freon. Since the taps are usually soldered instead of using Schraeder valves, it's beyond the usual backyard mechanicking. However, they do make Schraeder valves to allow you to solder into the lines so you can service the system with the "normal" Freon service manifold. Mine got overheated due to high interior temps and poor (no) venting for the fridge, and I ended-up buying a used fridge rather than trying to save the old one. YMMV
 
I had a NorCold refrigerator/freezer a few years ago doing same. There are no ports to hook up refrigeration gauges. However, they make what is called a Bullet Piercing Valve. It goes on either the high or low side, can't remember, and with it installed, refrigerant pressure can be checked and refrigerant added. Maybe the Vitrifrigo has the valves. Installing the piercing valve was simple and bought me a few years on the old NorCold.

Bennett
It looks like I have a valve on mine. Handy, but I don’t have a set gauges.

upload_2023-5-30_15-12-54.jpeg
 
Is that ice or paint on the capillary tube? Sure looks like ice...

upload_2023-5-30_18-20-36.png
 
It looks like I have a valve on mine. Handy, but I don’t have a set gauges.

View attachment 145309

That may be a valve, but it's not for gauges. It's for adding compressor oil and initial charge from factory. The gauge ports would be on the two tubes on the right side of that picture for high and low pressure. That compressor takes R134A.

You could try and add a schrader valve to the low pressure line (one that is insulated) and add sealer/freon like this: https://www.amazon.com/Certified-Pro-Conditioning-Refrigerant-PLUS-14oz-Pack/dp/B0BTQWDQCR/ref=sr_1_6?hvadid=267922778283&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9007983&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=18304468431975570704&hvtargid=kwd-318396181414&hydadcr=7544_9880949&keywords=r134a+refrigerant+with+leak+sealer&qid=1685495887&sr=8-6&ufe=app_do:amzn1.fos.006c50ae-5d4c-4777-9bc0-4513d670b6bc But you need to have gauges.

The correct way would be to evacuate the system and refill the correct weight of R134A w/sealer.

Probably cheaper, and easier, to have it serviced by an HVAC guy.
 
I know a couple of Back Cove owners whose freezers have failed also. Seems like a trend. Have you checked the voltage coming out of the power supply to the compressor? The power supply is an easy replacement if it is bad.
 
That is definitely the low side fitting for checking the pressure, evacuating and refilling. You should check, but I'll bet that unit uses 134A. Any decent HVAC tech could come out and check if there's any pressure left in the system. If there is, you can evacuate what's left in there and recharge to what the specs are (usually on a sticker inside the fridge).

If the unit does not have ANY pressure inside, then you need to find the leak. Usually you pressurize it (maybe OVER pressurize it) and use a "sniffer" to check all the components. Once the leak is found and repaired, you can evacuate the unit and charge properly and you'll be back in business.

If the leak is undetectable (meaning it's VERY small), you probably can get by with periodically recharging. These units use SO LITTLE refrigerant that it only takes a very small amount (a couple ounces) to leak out and cause the unit to lose performance. That might occur over two or three YEARS. A couple ounce recharge every now and then would keep it going. You might have to establish the correct "low side" pressure by completely evac'ing and recharging the system and record the pressure so you can match that in future refills.
 
That may be a valve, but it's not for gauges. It's for adding compressor oil and initial charge from factory. The gauge ports would be on the two tubes on the right side of that picture for high and low pressure. That compressor takes R134A.

You could try and add a schrader valve to the low pressure line (one that is insulated) and add sealer/freon like this: https://www.amazon.com/Certified-Pro-Conditioning-Refrigerant-PLUS-14oz-Pack/dp/B0BTQWDQCR/ref=sr_1_6?hvadid=267922778283&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9007983&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=18304468431975570704&hvtargid=kwd-318396181414&hydadcr=7544_9880949&keywords=r134a+refrigerant+with+leak+sealer&qid=1685495887&sr=8-6&ufe=app_do:amzn1.fos.006c50ae-5d4c-4777-9bc0-4513d670b6bc But you need to have gauges.

The correct way would be to evacuate the system and refill the correct weight of R134A w/sealer.

Probably cheaper, and easier, to have it serviced by an HVAC guy.
Yes, I got a name for a marine HVAC service guy. There's only so much I can do.
 
That is definitely the low side fitting for checking the pressure, evacuating and refilling. You should check, but I'll bet that unit uses 134A. Any decent HVAC tech could come out and check if there's any pressure left in the system. If there is, you can evacuate what's left in there and recharge to what the specs are (usually on a sticker inside the fridge).

If the unit does not have ANY pressure inside, then you need to find the leak. Usually you pressurize it (maybe OVER pressurize it) and use a "sniffer" to check all the components. Once the leak is found and repaired, you can evacuate the unit and charge properly and you'll be back in business.

If the leak is undetectable (meaning it's VERY small), you probably can get by with periodically recharging. These units use SO LITTLE refrigerant that it only takes a very small amount (a couple ounces) to leak out and cause the unit to lose performance. That might occur over two or three YEARS. A couple ounce recharge every now and then would keep it going. You might have to establish the correct "low side" pressure by completely evac'ing and recharging the system and record the pressure so you can match that in future refills.
It does use R134a. I've decided this level of repair is beyond what I want to try to tackle. Time to call in the experts.
 
I know a couple of Back Cove owners whose freezers have failed also. Seems like a trend. Have you checked the voltage coming out of the power supply to the compressor? The power supply is an easy replacement if it is bad.

I did the LED light test from the controller. It showed no issues with the compressor. I think I would need some more equipment to check the voltage to the compressor. The power plug to the compressor is hidden inside the controller, and seems inaccessible when running. I think I would need a diagnostic power supply with meters and a special plug to determine the voltage and amps.

Yes, I’ve also heard of other owners with fridge/freezer issues. Sometimes it’s a GFI that people don’t know about, and sometimes it’s the fan going out. I’ve heard of others with bad controllers. The odd thing is it’s a Danfoss Secop compressor/controller that is commonly used across many vendors. I'm not sure why there would be more issues with a Vitrifrigo unit vs. others.

If it's a controller that is easy to replace; I've already had it out and could swap it in 15 minutes or less. But all signs point to an R134a issue so I don't want to through $300 at a controller.
 

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