Stereo Upgrade

Question on wiring

Is it acceptable to draw the power off of the power solenoids instead of direct to the batteries? All wiring from the batteries to the solenoids is 4/0 (and pretty short). This would turn the stereo system off when I shut the boat down. This is similar to how the current amp/stereo are wired in the cabin.
 
Question on wiring

Is it acceptable to draw the power off of the power solenoids instead of direct to the batteries? All wiring from the batteries to the solenoids is 4/0 (and pretty short). This would turn the stereo system off when I shut the boat down. This is similar to how the current amp/stereo are wired in the cabin.
Is there a separate power for the memory? I think there is a separate circuit breaker on the unswitched section of the panel. For the power side of things it's perfectly acceptable to tap into the switched side of the solenoids. You will see significant voltage drop when cranking the engines so probably best to have the stereo system off when cranking.
 
Is there a separate power for the memory? I think there is a separate circuit breaker on the unswitched section of the panel. For the power side of things it's perfectly acceptable to tap into the switched side of the solenoids. You will see significant voltage drop when cranking the engines so probably best to have the stereo system off when cranking.
I'm only splitting off the amps for the cockpit speakers.

The head unit/ JL Audio amp for the cabin/v Berth will all remain on the factory wiring, so that all will work as originally built. Power is sufficient to run all that on the factory wiring and yes there is a always hot memory lead that feeds the head unit. Working on a schematic and sizing components.
 
The MS-RA770 does not need a constant for memory. IIRC, it has non-volatile memory. While the yellow is the circuit that the 770 draws its operating current on, its ok to have it run through the main battery switch.
 
Is there a separate power for the memory? ...

The RA770 has non-volatile memory as @Wylie_Tunes mentioned. But the Red and Yellow in this case should be tied together and on a breaker.

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I was more poking at where he is powering the RA770 from - the old memory circuit or the old stereo power circuit.
In my case I have the RA770 red and yellow wires tied together.
BTW, not to derail but have you seen anything like this? It is getting worse but doesn't seem to affect the touch-screen. When the unit first powers on the lines are across the entire screen then reduce to this. I usually operate the unit from the MFD's or my smartphone but still this is bothersome.
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... BTW, not to derail but have you seen anything like this? It is getting worse but doesn't seem to affect the touch-screen. When the unit first powers on the lines are across the entire screen then reduce to this. I usually operate the unit from the MFD's or my smartphone but still this is bothersome.
View attachment 144003

Unfortunately yes, the screen is de-laminating and needs to be replaced. The driver contacts are lifting. I would contact Fusion/Garmin and see what they say.

On a side note, if you need to get a new head unit, take a look at this "hide-away" one: https://www.garmin.com/en-US/p/832012#specs
 
Unfortunately yes, the screen is de-laminating and needs to be replaced. The driver contacts are lifting. I would contact Fusion/Garmin and see what they say.

On a side note, if you need to get a new head unit, take a look at this "hide-away" one: https://www.garmin.com/en-US/p/832012#specs
Ok - I'll give them a call. The face of this gets hot as all getout when the sun is blazing on it. I have another RA770 I bought for my other boat but I sold that boat before it was installed. So I'll probably install that and send this one in to Garmin. All good - Thanks.
 
I moved the RA-MA770 to the helm and rewired it with the rest of the dash a couple years ago. It is wired on its own switch (along with a few other items) and fuse on the dash. The red and yellow are wired together.

The current JL Audio amp is still behind the settee, and it is wired on the Entertainment Center 20A CB and the original #8 wire.

The plan is to leave a smaller amp on the original wiring behind the settee to power the galley and v-berth speakers, and move the cockpit amps to the area next to the helm and run appropriate power to that location from the main battery solenoid.
 
I was more poking at where he is powering the RA770 from - the old memory circuit or the old stereo power circuit.
In my case I have the RA770 red and yellow wires tied together.
BTW, not to derail but have you seen anything like this? It is getting worse but doesn't seem to affect the touch-screen. When the unit first powers on the lines are across the entire screen then reduce to this. I usually operate the unit from the MFD's or my smartphone but still this is bothersome.
View attachment 144003

Yeah, that looks like it’s delaminating.
 
So I did a temporary install of the 4 Ch Fusion Amp today do get a little experience with the DSP settings. I'm very impressed. Wired it up, selected the components from the list on the amp, and in about an hour had a very nice sounding system with the existing speakers. It will go to full volume with out any discernable distortion, so the Fusion guys did a pretty good job setting the tune on this. Selecting a different speaker in the Fusion Link App significantly changes the sound.

This is what I ender up with today.

Zone 1 is the the Cockpit
- 4 x MS-FR6022 (45W RMS)6" speakers wire in parallel on Zone 1 of the amp
- 1x JL Audio M10 10" Sub wired in a bridged confi\g, from Zone 2 of the amp

Zone 3 is the galley
- 2 x Sea Ray specials

Zone 4 is the V- berth
- 2 x Sea Ray specials

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I ordered 2 set of Fusion 8.8's today. They are the 2020 models, but I cant see any difference in specs, so I think they will be a much nice speaker. Less than $200/pair as opposed to $600 for the latest models. They cant sound that much better??

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The current set up leaves me an open Zone on the head unit, and with the addition of a sub amp, the ability to power 8 speakers, and 2 10" subs.

Need to decide what makes the best sense location wise for the main speakers. I'll have 4x 6" and 4x 8.8". Do I put the 8.8's up high in the arch, or down lower at foot level? Having them in the arch will obviously be louder, but it might make sense that keep both sets of the 6" in the arch and put the 8.8 down low to give "fill" to the area?

Recommendations?
 

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After a lot of measuring and re-measuring to see what speakers will fit where, I think I've settled on sizes and locations. 410 is tight when it comes to bigger/more speaker. The arch speakers were limited on the depth of speaker unless I wanted to go with very deep trim ring (needed 1-3/4" for the 8.8's and I thought that wouldn't look good, and it would interfere with the TV on the port side).

Once set up, I should have 4x 140W to the 7.7's and 2x 150 to the 8.8's Hopefully, this will produce a better fuller sound at a lower volume whne wanting to chill, and add a lot more volume when running at speed.

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So for the Arch and lower fronts, I'll be using Fusion Signature 3 7.7's Arch mount will require a 3/4" trim ring

Arch 7.7's
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Lower Helm Old

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Lower Helm New 7.7


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Trim Panel Old 6"
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Trim Panel New 7.7"

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Adding a second zone in the back of the lounge area by adding 2x Fusion Signature 3 8.8's. Going to have to move or redo the lighting (it sucks anyway)

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Starting to get the pcs and parts in to do the upgrade, specifically upgrading the power to the new amps.

I’m running 2/0 from the main solenoids to the area beside the helm. It’s about 15’ each way. Problem was finding a distribution block to accept 2/0, but found a nice reducer that will lock in.

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I’ll run #4 from the blocks to the amps, and 14 ga marine speaker wire out to the speakers.

Last parts I’m waiting on is a set of custom speaker trim rings for the archspeakers. Hopefully this week.
 
Custom made speaker trim rings in hand. I used Frank at Trimmed Out Inc. --> https://www.trimmedoutinc.com/ Great pricing, quick turn around, easy to deal with. Turned out a set of custom rings in a day, and at my house in 4 days over a holiday week-end! If your doing a project and need some custom cut starboard material, give them a shout.

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Custom made speaker trim rings in hand. I used Frank at Trimmed Out Inc. --> https://www.trimmedoutinc.com/ Great pricing, quick turn around, easy to deal with. Turned out a set of custom rings in a day, and at my house in 4 days over a holiday week-end! If your doing a project and need some custom cut starboard material, give them a shout.

View attachment 145286 View attachment 145287 View attachment 145288

Very nice! Worth the extra steps!


EDIT: Holy cow do they have great prices!
 
Finally have the 4 Fusion 7.7 mounted with an appropriate trim ring, so phase 1 complete, and looking good.

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Also pulled new 2/0 power wire from the DC panels in the bilge to the space outboard of the helm/map pocket.
Next up is to connect up the other ends to the fuse and main - bus bar, and install the amps on a nice panel.

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More progress. New 14 ga speaker wire pulled and terminated with the new speakers.

Platform for the amps mounted, and first amp mounted. Pretty much ready for the final wiring to the amps. Of course I need a few minor pcs and parts because I didn’t measure :). Nothing Amazon can’t fix.

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One note for anyone thinking of adding speakers in this area under the cockpit step of a 410 (probably similar in a 400 or a 380). There is a fiberglassed support running perpendicular under the step for support. It seams to have been installed sort of haphazardly, such that the speakers could not be installed symmetrically.

Pull the light fixture and measure well befor cutting! I used a tape measure to locate the support, and adjust accordingly. Speakers fit right in next to the support.
 

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