Speakers Popping

RBB

RBB

Well-Known Member
Dec 18, 2019
2,077
Kentucky
Boat Info
2004 480MY
2006 44DB
2019 Sea Doo GTX 155
Pelican Kayak
2004 390 MY Sold
Engines
Cummins QSM11 680Hp
Cummins QSC 500
Had a new stereo installed last year. Now when I shift transmission, use trim, or toot horn it makes a popping sound on stereo and kicks port side of stereo speakers off on the bridge. Or back on if already off.
Any thoughts on this?
 
Its all marine Kicker equipment. Big amp lots of speakers. I am not a tech guy.
Was thinking maybe they hooked power up to a engine battery instead of house battery.
 
Wylie_Tunes said:
My first thought is that the media unit and the amp(s) need to share the same voltage source. So the media unit CANNOT be wired to the original boat harness.
Click to expand...

Also make sure all of the batteries have their grounds attached to each other. Separating the grounds can create ground loops.

The strange thing is the shifting turning things on/off. The head unit, as stated, needs to be on the at same 12v source. But I am inclined to agree with you, they connected something to the engine battery and amps to the a different battery.

But that doesn't explain the shifting thing. Is there some kind of speaker switch that also has a remote?
 
No remotes
 
RBB said:
No remotes
Click to expand...

Makes no sense how, let a lone why, the zones are turning on/off then. The head unit is the only thing that can delegate what zones are playing or not. I would put a volt meter on the power leads and shift/trim tabs/ horn etc. and see what is happening. Barring that I would also get the installer back to fix it and also swap out the head unit.

I can't for the life of me understand how zones or L/R can turn on/off be electrical noise or even low voltage. Especially if you don't nave any remotes.
 
My main stereo is in the cabin, then there is one on the aft deck and bridge. Is that what u are calling a remote sir
 
RBB said:
My main stereo is in the cabin, then there is one on the aft deck and bridge. Is that what u are calling a remote sir
Click to expand...

No - Remotes are just that, remotes that control the head unit(s). So you have three head units? Which one is being effected?
 
They r fine, the only issue is on the port side of bridge. 1 speaker and 1 sub
 
My installer baffled also. He did use the existing spreader wire .
 
You said "Now" meaning it was fine after the initial install, something changed, and now it's not, correct?
 
RBB said:
They r fine, the only issue is on the port side of bridge. 1 speaker and 1 sub
Click to expand...

I would look into the wiring of the amp that feeds those two. Other then that I would need to see the setup in person. Tough one to figure out on paper - too many unknowns.
 
I appreciate all the input, but I am lost. The installer knows I want it fixed regardless. Hopefully he figures it out.
 
I had a really loud popping noise in two of the cockpit speakers. It wasn't related to any other electrical device; at least that is what appeared. The popping noise occurred randomly. Regardless, it ended up being a problem with one of the JL Audio amplifiers. In the end it took out two speakers and two of the channels in the amplifier went also.
So here is a possibility - Should the amplifier that is related to the noise be powered from the boat's control wiring there is a possibility of significant voltage spikes through that wiring due to coils, relays, and other electro-magnetic devices that are being activated. Audio system components really need to have dedicated power wiring and not subject to spikes and noise. Voltage spikes can also be on the negative (ground) side of the wiring if that wiring is shared and not sized for the total current.
The signal (RCA) wiring can also contribute to popping noises if it is defective or making intermittent contact. Running the signal cabling parallel to other electrical cabling can also put noise in the audio system due to inductive coupling, however, that is typically low level annoying noise.
 
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ttmott said:
... Audio system components really need to have dedicated wiring and not subject to spikes and noise. Voltage spikes can also be on the negative (ground) side of the wiring if that wiring is shared and not sized for the total current. ...
Click to expand...

This is probably what is going on. Most installers don't know the importance of proper grounding and can over look the obvious.

@RBB is all of your external amp wiring, wired back to a main home run to the house battery? If not it may be worth doing that.
 
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To try and isolate the issue, i suggest using an alternative source on your amps 1 at a time. I used my phone and a cable like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Type-C-Splitter-Theater-Amplifier-Speaker/dp/B0B3XJ45ZX

Then go and run the boat. See if you still get the popping, etc. If you do, seems it would be the power or ground to the amp, if not, it would likely be power/ground to the head-unit.
 
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