420/44 DB Owners Club

The eyebrow extends back 24 inches.

Eyebrow from Inside.jpg
 
So I have some original canvas for sale!

I also have the Raymarine E120s (one dies after 20 minutes) and the dash panels.

Cheers!
 
Has anyone find a good location for the temp sensor for the forward stateroom? Have found that the factory location at the foot of the bed is not the best as the temp is always cooler down low.

Hey Dean,
I pulled both of mine out and extended them as much as I could into more of a natural open ventilation area. Makes a huge difference. The way I see it, the only way for the original location of the sensors to work, is if you have the system on the continues fen on cycle.
 
Hey Dean,
I pulled both of mine out and extended them as much as I could into more of a natural open ventilation area. Makes a huge difference. The way I see it, the only way for the original location of the sensors to work, is if you have the system on the continues fen on cycle.
Thanks Alex, did you replace with longer cable or just extended as far as the existing one could reach? Currently i have it just drapped near the bolster on the port side. Mine is not on the continuous fan mode.
 
SeaRay495: It is the cockpit canvas. Did not do anything on the fly bridge

ttmott: The Presto Lift is working really well. It tends to leak down over time but I have ratchet straps between the tender and cleats on the outside of the swim step that keep the tender snugged up. I saw one in our marina and the lift was halfway down...no straps.

If I needed to, such as in REALLY rough seas, I have additional cleats on the transom that I can tie the tender to as well. I really just stays put. Not like the Olsen davit where the tender would swing around and we had to put straps straight back and cross tie as well, even in small seas.

When researching boats, I had identified this lift as one that I wanted. I am so glad Mark (LG111) put this one on.

BTW: I text him all the time. I sent him pics of the cockpit canvas.

Cheers!
 
SeaRay495: It is the cockpit canvas. Did not do anything on the fly bridge

ttmott: The Presto Lift is working really well. It tends to leak down over time but I have ratchet straps between the tender and cleats on the outside of the swim step that keep the tender snugged up. I saw one in our marina and the lift was halfway down...no straps.

If I needed to, such as in REALLY rough seas, I have additional cleats on the transom that I can tie the tender to as well. I really just stays put. Not like the Olsen davit where the tender would swing around and we had to put straps straight back and cross tie as well, even in small seas.

When researching boats, I had identified this lift as one that I wanted. I am so glad Mark (LG111) put this one on.

BTW: I text him all the time. I sent him pics of the cockpit canvas.

Cheers!
I was surprised they didn't have counterbalance valves in the hydraulics when I installed mine; the counterbalance valves would prevent any unintended movement. My Marquipt davit has counterbalance valves for all cylinders.
 
I sent a note to Presto Lift to see if they have counter balance valves.

Thanks!
 
Presto said no valve to hold lift in place. It really doesn't matter to me as I put my ratchet traps on whenever the tender is up on the lift. Takes 2 seconds.
 
Presto said no valve to hold lift in place. It really doesn't matter to me as I put my ratchet traps on whenever the tender is up on the lift. Takes 2 seconds.
I have no issues with bleed down - yet. If the system starts something like that then either replace the solenoid valves or add standard counterbalance valves. Once we are on anchor the dinghy is moved out so in our case we can't deal with any bleed down.
 
My latest attempt to reduce the need for TP …. Wish me luck. ;)

371C8B6F-5C10-4C0B-9F2D-C8E51D5C2FC4.jpeg 2EAA6B1D-5A42-47C9-9109-99AA289EF645.jpeg
 
Are you running some 110V to it so it heats? Ours is cold water...not as bad as I thought.

The home unit is nice and warm. They both do the job!

If you have not used one before, it is a bit of a shock at first!
 
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Are you running some 110V to it so it heats? Ours is cold water...not as bad as I thought.

The home unit is nice and warm. They both do the job!

If you have not used one before, it is a bit of a shock at first!
Yes, running on AC power which is pretty much all the time for my wife and I anyway with all the mod cons we have installed … We have a bidet in the house and love it hence two on the boat now. Considered running an inverter but it’s just too big a job. Hopefully no more blocked toilets..
 
Are you running some 110V to it so it heats? Ours is cold water...not as bad as I thought.

The home unit is nice and warm. They both do the job!

If you have not used one before, it is a bit of a shock at first!
Have you be able to eliminate
The eyebrow extends back 24 inches.

View attachment 140526

May I ask everyone’s opinion on zipper overlap?

Had mine done recently and the trimmer wasn’t big on zipper overhang hence a lot of comments from my dock mates on leaks etc. I put the hose on the zippers directly, indirectly, varying angles and pressures and it was dry.

Whilst I get that no overlap saves money (all can be cut from one piece) I’m curious to know what’s the norm now with current zipper and material tech?

9E9E40E7-F659-4CF2-9D91-29389E071DCD.jpeg
 
Thanks Alex, did you replace with longer cable or just extended as far as the existing one could reach? Currently i have it just drapped near the bolster on the port side. Mine is not on the continuous fan mode.

Just used whatever length allowed on existing wire. I thought about extending it, but it's a low priority on the list. It's not a perfect solution, but a huge difference. Mine are also not in continues mode.

What also helps is keeping the sensors clean. When I vacuum the filters and the AC area, I do the sensors as well.
 
Have you be able to eliminate


May I ask everyone’s opinion on zipper overlap?

Had mine done recently and the trimmer wasn’t big on zipper overhang hence a lot of comments from my dock mates on leaks etc. I put the hose on the zippers directly, indirectly, varying angles and pressures and it was dry.

Whilst I get that no overlap saves money (all can be cut from one piece) I’m curious to know what’s the norm now with current zipper and material tech?

View attachment 140615

If it makes a big functional difference, I'd do it. When done properly, they should not leak. I can't tell 100% but it looks like in this pic the large panel is held by U-shape zipper. If so, then how is the bigger zipper on the bottom different from a small u-shape zipper on the overlap. If they can make large one not to leak, then they can do the smaller one. One trick is to use material to cover the zipper.
 
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If it makes a big functional difference, I'd do it. When done properly, they should not leak. I can't tell 100% but it looks like in this pic the large panel is held by U-shape zipper. If so, then how is the bigger zipper on the bottom different from a small u-shape zipper on the overlap. If they can make large one not to leak, then they can do the smaller one. One trick is to use material to cover the zipper.
I think traditionally the flap is oversized. In my case it was cut exactly from the the front pan so there’s no extra material needed nor is there any overlap … If it were over sized the cost would have been much more
 

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