480 DB Owners Club

LattitudeAdjustment said:
Are you referring to while the boat is out of the water? How would you get power to the lights? Are you planning on drilling into the transom well above the water line?

V
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There are underwater lights that attach to the trim tabs to avoid transom penetrations. There is a small hole near the shore power cap above the water line that drains the transom locker. The wiring could run through that to connect to power. The question now becomes where is the best location to connect to power? https://hurleymarine.com/underwater-lights/
 
Does anyone know of a way to shut off the water supply to the forward bathroom? I think I have a line that may have spung a leak up there. My water pump is on and I checked all the fresh water outlets and they are all off. The sink in the master stateroom has very low water pressure and that is why I am thinking there is a leak with that line running there.

Also, my mechanic mentioned to me that someone prior to me owning the boat replaced the fresh water pump with one that has too much pressure and that it could stress the supply lines.

My concern is that I am going to have to start ripping apart furniture or parts of the boat to get to the water line. I would like to to this myself and save some $$, but may need to have my mechanic step in.

Thanks for any ideas that can be shared.

Vince
 
There are no shut off valves but you could pull and cap the main line at any connection to test. Also, have you cleaned your faucet strainer? I had to do that multiple times per season to fix low water pressure.
 
quality time said:
There are no shut off valves but you could pull and cap the main line at any connection to test. Also, have you cleaned your faucet strainer? I had to do that multiple times per season to fix low water pressure.
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Good idea on the strainer, thank you. I nee to find a diagram of where the water line runs to so I can follow it and see if there is a break in it. There was good pressure in it just the other day, so my guess is I have a fault in the line somewhere. I hear a trickling sound somewhere inside the boat that I cannot visually locate. That is what worries me.

Thanks,
V
 
LattitudeAdjustment said:
Good idea on the strainer, thank you. I nee to find a diagram of where the water line runs to so I can follow it and see if there is a break in it. There was good pressure in it just the other day, so my guess is I have a fault in the line somewhere. I hear a trickling sound somewhere inside the boat that I cannot visually locate. That is what worries me.

Thanks,
V
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If there was a leak or a break you would know as you bilge would be full of water and your pump would be going off tripping an alarm.
 
It would be easy to put a shutoff valve in the line. Track the line to an easy access point and cut it. My guess in front of the engines would be a good place. Install a valve, which will allow you to turn it on and off. Sea Ray used a 15mm pex line. The big box store pex is a different size (3/8, 1/2, etc..) and is not compatible. You will have to most likely find the valve online at a boat parts supplier.

The water line is a tough plastic that probably is not leaking. If anything it’s a fitting or elbow, but those are usually fail proof also….unless the boat was not winterized properly. Then you will need to do a pressure test. I found a leak a few years ago in the rear trunk where the fresh water hose hooks into the boat for constant shore water. The housing was cracked and the water was leaking into the trunk and out the drain. That fitting is about $65 and most marinas have them since it’s a source for common failure. The plastic nozzle is a lot more fragile than the pex line.

Check the anchor locker and cockpit wash down hoses. Those are cheap plastic as well..

Keith
 
The crime scene said:
It would be easy to put a shutoff valve in the line. Track the line to an easy access point and cut it. My guess in front of the engines would be a good place. Install a valve, which will allow you to turn it on and off. Sea Ray used a 15mm pex line. The big box store pex is a different size (3/8, 1/2, etc..) and is not compatible. You will have to most likely find the valve online at a boat parts supplier.

Keith
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Thanks Keith & QT. I did check the anchor locker hose and it was fine with plenty of pressure. As far as winterizing the boat, that is something we don't do here on the South-West coast of FL. I appreciate all the good info on line sizes and where to check for leaks. I will head over there tomorrow to take a look.

Here is a short clip from our cruise this past weekend. Nice sunny day, 75 and 6kts of breeze.
https://onedrive.live.com/?cid=AF271A8E4F7289C5&id=AF271A8E4F7289C5!53080&parId=AF271A8E4F7289C5!10139&o=OneUp
y4m6jvGhcD1tBmYCrC9peyTs3OkJHPqu6Yijh_c3E6yC7gO3IGunX1YlQY7uRRt0KanClb_8rrSb4is7e2z2PcSgVztsB0QvsXp-_dY5452kA3KlQAMfl2zY7Mpk3ChKI_7-UGRs7kjBK4WHgV5S-1qpTc1R7votiAPThfA4WDPTXn-v-6UMZw3VMO0-8GnkEEt74ix1y84CBSwkHgzzF1-mIik7_XkPa1d29oPFISVFDM
 
If you have good pressure past the bathroom then I'm betting on the faucet strainer being clogged up. How's the shower head pressure?
 
Hi Vince,
Sorry to jump in as I'm not familiar with your beautiful boat, but -

Do you have a fresh water manifold? There are shutoffs there to all the outlets. All three of my boats had/have a manifold just aft of the fed stateroom bed...by the FW pump...
 
carterchapman said:
Hi Vince,
Sorry to jump in as I'm not familiar with your beautiful boat, but -

Do you have a fresh water manifold? There are shutoffs there to all the outlets. All three of my boats had/have a manifold just aft of the fed stateroom bed...by the FW pump...
Click to expand...

I am not sure. I will have to take a look. I live close to the boat (5 min) so I will take a ride by tomorrow. That would make things easy for the short term. Could you be a little more specific about where it might be? I am assuming in the bilge? That would put the manifold on my forward bulkhead in my engine room. I do have a fresh water line that goes into a "T" fitting on this bulkhead, but I don't recall seeing a manifold.

Thank you for sharing your knowledge.

Vince
 
Looking at a 98’ that has 3196s with Twin Disc EC-100 controller. Anyone have experience with this setup? It is nice in that it allows you to troll at 1 knot or less but it’s definitely old.
 

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carterchapman said:
Hi Vince,
Sorry to jump in as I'm not familiar with your beautiful boat, but -

Do you have a fresh water manifold? There are shutoffs there to all the outlets. All three of my boats had/have a manifold just aft of the fed stateroom bed...by the FW pump...
Click to expand...

Good news.

The problem was a bad water pump, not a break/crack in the line. Apparently when one of the pumps go bad, the other pump turns on and that was my issue. I replaced them both and all is well. Then I found a leak in the generator cooling system. Had to have an elbow replaced. Of course it was back towards the hull in a hard to reach spot. But L/A is in good shape and ready to head to the Keys. Time to complete the baitwell system that was never finished by Sea Ray.

Thanks again for all the assistance. I learned quit a bit along the way.

Vince
 
A while back, the door switch/lock mechanism on my washer/dryer failed in the door locked position, preventing me from opening the door. This is apparently a common problem with Splendide washers. I could not find a replacement online.

I read a recommendation to simply unbolt the mechanism from the front panel and remember to not open the door while washing. That worked great until yesterday.

There is also a door open interlock in the same door switch mechanism that prevents the washer from starting with the door open. I had apparently lucked out when I originally disconnected the mechanism as it must have been in the door shut position.

After numerous washes, the vibration apparently moved the mechanism slide to the door open position so the washer would no longer start.

I could have installed a jumper across the door interlock leads, but I lock-wired the mechanism slide in the door shut position instead. The washer now runs again.

I had pry up a corner of the porthole diaphragm to access the door switch. That was easy. It's a little harder to put the diaphragm back into place, but it is doable.

I've attached the service manual that shows how to access the door switch.
 

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Russ Calasant said:
I have a couple questions for you guys - any one have experience with the fuel switches?- The gen feeds off port tank, if you switch the port main to the starboard tank does it affect the gen feed as well?
And has anyone ever changed out one of the drains in the shower/Head? - just the strainer. If so source? Any trick to unscrewing?
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Hi Russ, did you replace your shower drain fitting? I need to replace the one in my port head now. Where did you get the part? Marine Max says Sea Ray no longer carries it and Flounder Pounder doesn't have it.
 
steve4566 said:
Hi Russ, did you replace your shower drain fitting? I need to replace the one in my port head now. Where did you get the part? Marine Max says Sea Ray no longer carries it and Flounder Pounder doesn't have it.
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With regard to the shower drain in port head... the shower is slow to drain and want to remove drain fitting to snake out. Does the drain pop off or how do you remove? Thanks, Dave
 
The shower drain covers in the 2003's are not removable, not sure about other years. I used to use a foaming or gel drain cleaner in them once per season and that helped alot. Just get it flushed out of the shower sump thoroughly after the recommended time.
 
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