Stripped snap screw

Byron

Byron

Member
May 30, 2022
76
Boat Info
2009 Sea Ray 310DA, Garmin gps,radar
Engines
Twin Mercruiser 350 w/v-drives
I have a stripped out screw on a canvas snap going into the fiberglass on cockpit canvass. The part of the snap with the screw in it pulls out of the fiberglass when I try to disengage the snap. Before I make a mess of things, any suggestions.
 
Byron said:
I have a stripped out screw on a canvas snap going into the fiberglass on cockpit canvass. The part of the snap with the screw in it pulls out of the fiberglass when I try to disengage the snap. Before I make a mess of things, any suggestions.
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I am guessing the "stud" with the screw is what you are referring to. If this is pulling out you may be able to get a wider screw to fit snug. IIRC, the standard stud screw is a #8 and the oversized is a #10. They also make longer screws but that may not be necessary as most parts of the fiberglass are not that deep.

Other than going to a larger screw stud you could drill out the hole slightly and fill the hole with epoxy. Once the epoxy is set you can re-drill for the the smaller screw stud.

-Kevin
 
+1 what @KevinC said....they make a male part of the snap with a large "screw" end. Try that first. If it doesn't work, then follow his instructions. Easy fix.

Jaybeaux
 
If you can drill through the fiberglass I’ve always had good luck with pop rivets for this kind of repair. You need to cut a short sleeve from a long rivet to make up for the depth of the snap. Slide the sleeve on the nail of the rivet before inserting it in the tool. Snugs the snap up nice and tight.
 
Stingrayaxe said:
If you can drill through the fiberglass I’ve always had good luck with pop rivets for this kind of repair. You need to cut a short sleeve from a long rivet to make up for the depth of the snap. Slide the sleeve on the nail of the rivet before inserting it in the tool. Snugs the snap up nice and tight.
Click to expand...
Not sure if I would use that approach without being there, but definitely a unique idea for many applications.
 
Instant fix: use a white zip tie. Push it in the hole, put the screw in most of the way, then cut the zip tie flush with the fiberglass using a razor blade. Done.
 
Fill the hole with expoxy to the extent possible then insert a wood tooth pick into the hole and break it off flush to the surface. Once the expoxy sets insert the original stud and the repair should last indefinitely.
 
techmitch said:
Not sure if I would use that approach without being there, but definitely a unique idea for many applications.
Click to expand...

I would be a little concerned too. The pop rivet is good to attach to metal structures (poles, frames, etc) but with the fiberglass not necessarily uniform, flat or possibly weak in that location the compression could cause a crack. I also makes the removal process substantially for difficult to replace if worn or weathered.

-Kevin
 
Make sure you caulk the screw hole well when you reinstall the snap stud. Screw holes from snap studs can be a source of water intrusion into the deck.
 
I did sort of like Kevin said. But I only drilled a little way into the top. I filled the hole from the bottom using a syringe and put the screw with snap back in. I also put a chunk of fiberglass on the bottom and screwed it in tight. Like a backer for the screw to bite in to. But I have access to scrap polyester resign filled cut off. I have also used pieces of G10 sheet scraps when I didn't have blocks. I get the scrap from the shop I used to work at. Cut them into sizes I might need and store on the boat with 5 minute and 30 minute epoxy. I go for scraps that are 3/8" but nothing less than 1/4".
 
KevinC said:
I would be a little concerned too. The pop rivet is good to attach to metal structures (poles, frames, etc) but with the fiberglass not necessarily uniform, flat or possibly weak in that location the compression could cause a crack. I also makes the removal process substantially for difficult to replace if worn or weathered.

-Kevin
Click to expand...
I understand the concern but some boat builders do this from the factory. I’ve repaired a dozen or so with this method and never had an issue. When possible I use a backing washer but is not really needed.
 
I have used many of the methods above with great success. I would be hesitant to use a rivet.

Another possibility if you have access is to through bolt.
 
I would never use an aluminum rivet because of dissimilar metal corrosion. It won’t last. A stainless steel rivet “might” hold but soooo much better to use epoxy with toothpick or fibreglass as a permanent fix.
 
Thanks for all the fed back. Epoxy with tooth pick it is.
 
My local marine supply / hardware store has oversized screw with a new snap. If its not too oversized that might work for you.
 
I'm a newb and had a few already out and a few more that came off on our new to us boat.
I was hesitant to make a small problem a bigger problem (by making hole bigger or buying an expensive tool) I placed a small dab of epoxy on the back of the screw head, lots on the thread and the edges of the hole then put the screw snap in the hull and turn left a few times. I think 4 lasted the whole season and two came out later. Low risk / high reward was the best for me. Epoxy is cheap, a big oops is not. You can youTube it too, think I saw many methods of repair.... DIY and Pro.
 
Wanderer 290 said:
Fill the hole with expoxy to the extent possible then insert a wood tooth pick into the hole and break it off flush to the surface. Once the expoxy sets insert the original stud and the repair should last indefinitely.
Click to expand...
or a golf tee depending on hole size.
 
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