Bravo III steering pin

Reed Sirinek

Member
Jul 20, 2022
34
Boat Info
2007 Sea Ray 240 DA Sundancer
Engines
Mercruiser 350 MAG MPI
Does anyone know if you don’t use the JR marine repair method , then does the engine have to be removed? (350 MAG MPI/BravoIII 2007)
Marine tech pointed out a leak between transom and engine and recommended this repair. Is the leak wetting the transom (first boat first year)
https://www.jrmarine.com/instructions.htm
Is the issue the pins deformed and a seal is lost?
 
JR Method is much easier and cheaper. When I did mine years ago it held up for several years and was still good when I sold it. Most applications the engine needs to come out for access.
 
Yes, the engine has to come out because there is a giant nut on the top of the steering pin that holds it in. It is recessed fairly deep inside the transom plywood. Even with engines out it is not that easy to get to. I think it's impossible to do with engines in. That is why cutting the outside is a bit easier to get to that nut. In my case things were so corroded I don't think that method would have worked. I took engines out and replaced entire transom assembly as there was a bit of corrosion I didn't like.

There a small rubber seal that slides over the round section of the pin and gets slid into a round bushing in the transom assembly. The steel pin rusts and eats up the seal causing the leak. Unfortunately a terrible design for salt water boats.
 
JR Method is much easier and cheaper. When I did mine years ago it held up for several years and was still good when I sold it. Most applications the engine needs to come out for access.
Still good - do you mean there was play?
 
Still good - do you mean there was play?
As in no leaking. Mine never really had excessive play just leaking from the rusted steel pin wearing out the rubber o ring. As stated above a terrible design. I think all the pins these days are stainless.
 
I used the JR Marine transom cutout tempete kit on a Bravo II on my last boat and it worked great, and I did not have to remove the engine. You will have to remove the outdrive and the entire mounting assembly minus the transom plate to gain access to the pivot pen. Don't waste time installing a steel pen, buy the stainless steel one. I used the supplied stainless steel cover plate and sealant and had no issues for 4 years (then sold).
Also you will need a tap & die set, multiple 3/32" drill bits and lots of patients.
 
Thank you so much all to all the members on clubsearay.com! This was the first season on our first boat.

I was stuffing the boat on plane half the season, trim drive in and trim tabs down, but I got the hang of these controls later and fuel economy improved. Plane-ing like that could it be have been more prone to leak?

JR's site is unclear is this part for all Bravo's? #2000
Bravo 1 Swivel Shaft Hi-Performance

Another follow up question, was there lots of deformation on the gimbal ring square hole or other issues? I dont know the history of our boat. The finish on the outdrive looks nice, but fyi it's an 07 Bravo III with low 300 hours. About 290 on Lake Erie and rest in Ohio river
 
Thank you so much all to all the members on clubsearay.com! This was the first season on our first boat.

I was stuffing the boat on plane half the season, trim drive in and trim tabs down, but I got the hang of these controls later and fuel economy improved. Plane-ing like that could it be have been more prone to leak?

JR's site is unclear is this part for all Bravo's? #2000
Bravo 1 Swivel Shaft Hi-Performance

Another follow up question, was there lots of deformation on the gimbal ring square hole or other issues? I dont know the history of our boat. The finish on the outdrive looks nice, but fyi it's an 07 Bravo III with low 300 hours. About 290 on Lake Erie and rest in Ohio river

Yes, same steering pin for all Bravo's.

In my case, there was no deformation on the gimbal ring. In fact, the steering pin was stuck by built up corrosion that I had to use a homemade puller to get the pin out of the ring itself.

There is a rather simple test that you can do to see if anything is worn in the steering before doing the job. Simply grab the drive and see how much play in there from left to right while the steering lever inside the boat is held in place. If there is play, look closely at the bottom of the steering pin while moving the drive to see if it is turning within the gimbal ring (in my case they appeared to be fused together). Next, disconnect the steering ram from the steering lever inside the boat and with the drive held in place outside the boat attempt to move the steering lever from left to right. In my case, both drives revealed that the steering levers were both NOT pinching the steering pin enough to prevent movement. Once removed, it was clear that years of the leaking seal ended up rusting both the steering pin and the steering lever thus allowing movement between the two. The pinch bolt was rusted beyond any hopes of ever tightening it against a pin, so both the pins and steering levers were replaced along with seals and bushings. I was told by JR Marine that it was most likely the gimbal ring that was worn, but apparently I was lucky - twice with both drives needing new pins and levers only.

Hope yours is similar!
 
when apart, install that missing grease fitting
 
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Stuffing the boat, as you say on step, should not affect the integrity of that seal imo. You likely just have a corroded pin. It may increase the stress to the gimbal bearing and u-joints but the pin shouldn't care. We run ours this way with heavy trim tabs holding step as low 11 knts returning in seriously foul weather. No leaks.
We replaced ours a few seasons ago due to corrosion. Pulled the engine though as I have a 5000 lb crane at my disposal. Also added the grease fittings to both bushings while at it but likely a bit of overkill.
steering pin.jpg
 

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