340 SUNDANCER THREAD

Has anyone made the leap to a 12V TV. Looking for Fall football without the generator. What did you buy and why? Thanks.
 
Does anyone have knowledge of the reset button I just found in my searches? Will it trip if the unit was turned on with no water?

Hoping for an easy fix. Just taking the pic was painful!
If the heater was turned on without water, the element will burn out.
The reset button is on the thermostat which is on the aluminum plate attached to the heater. There are two "button" sensors on the plate, one has a reset button on it.
I've replaced two sets of these. Atwood sells the assembly. Check the element with a meter first. BTW, it does not "spin out". Bolts in with a gasket.
 
Hello everyone...

Just wanted to introduce myself...

I'm a soon to be new (hopefully) owner of an early '03 340 with a survey scheduled next Monday. Had been chasing a 360 about a month ago but that survey found issues that killed the deal.

Lots of terrific info in this thread and very thankful that so many folks share with great detail.

Hope to be a fully participating member soon :)
 
New to us making it ours begins.
 

Attachments

  • cup holder 1.jpg
    cup holder 1.jpg
    81.1 KB · Views: 107
  • cup holder 2.jpg
    cup holder 2.jpg
    107.2 KB · Views: 105
Hello everyone...

Just wanted to introduce myself...

I'm a soon to be new (hopefully) owner of an early '03 340 with a survey scheduled next Monday. Had been chasing a 360 about a month ago but that survey found issues that killed the deal.

Lots of terrific info in this thread and very thankful that so many folks share with great detail.

Hope to be a fully participating member soon :)

Welcome! The 2003 model was a cross over year for the 340 Sundancer. The early model (DA) and the late year model (SDA) both are great boats but have some significant differences. The later model has a forum thread with a lot a information specific to it.

So if you happen to have the SDA you will find this informative:
http://www.clubsearay.com/index.php?threads/official-2003-5-2008-340-sundancer-thread.59501/

-Kevin
 
Has anyone made the leap to a 12V TV. Looking for Fall football without the generator. What did you buy and why? Thanks.
We installed an inverter that supplies the outlets in the boat. There are aftermarket systems out there. Ours turns on using the forward assy switch at the helm. It kicks itself off if the shore power is plugged in or the genny is started. Also when it reads voltage down to 12.2 volts. It is only a 750 amp, so will not run micro, ac, large loads. Only for small loads - a fan, tv, electronics chargers, etc. We love it, works great.
 
Some advice and info from the group please... I've been away from boating for quite a while.

With my 340 DA survey just a few days away I've been given some maintenance history by the existing owner. It shows one exhaust manifold changed out 3.5 year ago and the other 4 years ago.

The boat has been living in salt water in the Long Island Sound - not far from NYC. With salt water, isn't it recommended to change out the exhaust manifolds every 3-4 years? Also, appreciating costs are regional, what might I expect to pay a marina for that change out?

I'm handy enough to be dangerous, but this is too big a job for me as my first upgrade :)

Thanks,
 
Some advice and info from the group please... I've been away from boating for quite a while.

With my 340 DA survey just a few days away I've been given some maintenance history by the existing owner. It shows one exhaust manifold changed out 3.5 year ago and the other 4 years ago.

The boat has been living in salt water in the Long Island Sound - not far from NYC. With salt water, isn't it recommended to change out the exhaust manifolds every 3-4 years? Also, appreciating costs are regional, what might I expect to pay a marina for that change out?

I'm handy enough to be dangerous, but this is too big a job for me as my first upgrade :)

Thanks,

Which engines?
 
Some advice and info from the group please... I've been away from boating for quite a while.

With my 340 DA survey just a few days away I've been given some maintenance history by the existing owner. It shows one exhaust manifold changed out 3.5 year ago and the other 4 years ago.

The boat has been living in salt water in the Long Island Sound - not far from NYC. With salt water, isn't it recommended to change out the exhaust manifolds every 3-4 years? Also, appreciating costs are regional, what might I expect to pay a marina for that change out?

I'm handy enough to be dangerous, but this is too big a job for me as my first upgrade :)

Thanks,

At the 3-4 year interval you should at least inspect them. The manifolds may give you a couple more seasons. I just finished my 6th season and I am planning on replacing them now. If they are running hot then more than likely they are rusting internally and creating blockages.

The elbows are stainless and do not necessarily need to be replaced. They should be inspected for any weld cracks. Pressure testing or filling and looking for leaks will tell you their current state.

Changing out the manifolds it not a terrible job - just a lot to unbolt and put back on. Depending on your level of comfort it is certainly a doable job - if your not comfortable doing it then give it to a pro. I would guess about 4 hours per side.

If your doing manifolds you might want to consider plugs and wires to. Just note the Merc wires are very expensive - we just had a thread here on CSR regarding alternatives.

Also - if there is anything else that needs to be done while manifolds are out consider doing that at the same time as it will save cost in the long run by not having to remove and reinstall.

-Kevin
 
KevinC, thank you...

That's just the kind of insight/info I was hoping for. I'm pretty sure I can do the change-out but I was more uncomfortable with me doing it right away. I'll wait to see what the surveyor/mechanic finds next week and take it from there.

You're a gentleman...
 
KevinC, thank you...

That's just the kind of insight/info I was hoping for. I'm pretty sure I can do the change-out but I was more uncomfortable with me doing it right away. I'll wait to see what the surveyor/mechanic finds next week and take it from there.

You're a gentleman...

With the 8.1s, the risers are stainless. They've had issues with pinhole leaks, so have them inspected, but they are not necessarily subject to the hard, no longer than 5 year change out rule, that cast iron risers are subject to. You should have the oil in both engines tested. If you've got any salt in the oil, that will give you a heads up on possible water intrusion. I assume you're also having compression checks done. A compression check will also alert you to potential water manifold issues, as the first victim are the exhaust valves due to corrosion. The mechanic should really separate the riser and manifolds and take a look see to see if there's any water intrusion.

Changing out the manifolds is not that bad of a job. The trick is to use guide studs screwed into the block to hold the manifold in place, as you put in the bolts. Nuwave Marine is the best source for OEM manifolds and risers (https://nuwavemarine.com/mercruiser/exhaust/496-8-1-exhaust-parts/). The manifold kit is $814 per manifold, so you're looking at at least $2,500 in parts, plus the labor if you don't do it yourself.

Agree with the KevinC that the mechanic should also be looking for hotspots on the manifolds, which would indicate internal corrosion as well.

I would err on the side of replacing all of the manifolds sooner rather than later, just because the engine damage can be so catastrophic if a manifold fails.
 
Last edited:
Thank you bfernald0, I appreciate the help and the info...

I'm waiting to see what the survey turns up next week and, assuming all goes well, leaning towards having both engine manifolds changed just to be on the safe side.
 

Forum statistics

Threads
112,942
Messages
1,422,698
Members
60,927
Latest member
Jaguar65
Back
Top