410 Sundancer/Express Cruiser and 400 Sundancer/Express Cruiser **Official Thread**

I haven't done anything other than play around with the default display to swap around some of the smaller gauge sets. What's strange is that on the Garmin both sides of the gauges are active but it's only coming from one engine (strbrd). It's showing exactly the same oil pressure, coolant temp and RPM's for both. I only know it's strbrd based on revving the engine.

Oddly...the fuel flow rates appear correct on the Garmin. Unless it's simply doubling the strbrd flow rate? That would be odd though...

you said the dip switches are set for port and starboard, right? Try swapping the gateways if it's not too much of a pain, or disconnect one at a time and see if the other one comes online...sounds like maybe they're stepping on each other
 
Yep - it sounds like that's what it's doing. The Garmin thinks you have 2 starboard engines. Set the DIP switches to port/starboard?

If that sorts it, you might want to hit demo mode (#4) before closing the gateways back up so you can configure the Garmin without the ignitions being on.
 
Forgot, winter projects. I'm gonna replace my faded out dash panels with the ones from Flounder Pounder and I'd like to install autopilot. If anyone gets a chance, can they take pictures of the pieces you have and where they are located?
Thanks
 
Guys, here's what I get fuel economy with my 400 gassers. \


nice video. Refreshing to see some real data, we’re spot on the 1mpg you mentioned in the video but this year paid $6.98 for diesel while gas was under $6, so any savings was wiped out

i wouldn’t trade our engines, I love them, but I think the claimed efficiency over the gas engines is severely overstated a lot of time.
 
nice video. Refreshing to see some real data, we’re spot on the 1mpg you mentioned in the video but this year paid $6.98 for diesel while gas was under $6, so any savings was wiped out

i wouldn’t trade our engines, I love them, but I think the claimed efficiency over the gas engines is severely overstated a lot of time.

I'm sure the cost of fuel will flip-flop again soon enough. Y'all diesel owners won't give up that easily!

I paid $5.29 for my final 120 gallon top-up last weekend. I always enjoy the feeling of putting away full of fuel knowing I won't need gas again until July next year :)
 
I'm sure the cost of fuel will flip-flop again soon enough. Y'all diesel owners won't give up that easily!

I paid $5.29 for my final 120 gallon top-up last weekend. I always enjoy the feeling of putting away full of fuel knowing I won't need gas again until July next year :)

yup, I’m due for about 110g to top up as well. Just a cool $700+, got to love it.

I do very much enjoy starting the year full though
 
Guys, here's what I get fuel economy with my 400 gassers.

Well done. It's interesting to compare/contrast this data. At 35-36k, you're cruising slower than I'd expect, but at the same time you're pulling better econ numbers than I'd expect.
 
Forgot, winter projects. I'm gonna replace my faded out dash panels with the ones from Flounder Pounder and I'd like to install autopilot. If anyone gets a chance, can they take pictures of the pieces you have and where they are located?
Thanks

I'm afraid my AP is too old be a guide for a new system, but after seeing that antique VHF in the video I'm glad to hear about the panel project. :D Have you decided what you're going to replace it with?
 
So I have a new issue where I need advice. I feel like every time I do something I need advice.

I'm changing the duckbills on the port (forward head) vacuum generator. Because the water continues to run. I found a great video online of someone changing them on a Sea Ray 410 but he did the Stbd side.

This side is very different. I can't see how to slide the pump and fittings back since they are sandwiched between two non flexible pipes. Unlike the stbd side which is just hooked to a long section of rubber hose.

Also there does not seem to be any duckbills on the intake, as far as I can see. It is well hidden but it looks like the hose just goes straight in without any fittings that could house duckbills.

Am I missing something stupid? well of course I am... I just don't know what it is.
 

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So I have a new issue where I need advice. I feel like every time I do something I need advice.

I'm changing the duckbills on the port (forward head) vacuum generator. Because the water continues to run. I found a great video online of someone changing them on a Sea Ray 410 but he did the Stbd side.

This side is very different. I can't see how to slide the pump and fittings back since they are sandwiched between two non flexible pipes. Unlike the stbd side which is just hooked to a long section of rubber hose.

Also there does not seem to be any duckbills on the intake, as far as I can see. It is well hidden but it looks like the hose just goes straight in without any fittings that could house duckbills.

Am I missing something stupid? well of course I am... I just don't know what it is.
There is a set on each side of that pump, one set inside that threaded section on right in your pic, the black threaded part on left will loosen and allow you to move pump, at least on mine it did.
 
So I have a new issue where I need advice. I feel like every time I do something I need advice.

I'm changing the duckbills on the port (forward head) vacuum generator. Because the water continues to run. I found a great video online of someone changing them on a Sea Ray 410 but he did the Stbd side.

This side is very different. I can't see how to slide the pump and fittings back since they are sandwiched between two non flexible pipes. Unlike the stbd side which is just hooked to a long section of rubber hose.

Also there does not seem to be any duckbills on the intake, as far as I can see. It is well hidden but it looks like the hose just goes straight in without any fittings that could house duckbills.

Am I missing something stupid? well of course I am... I just don't know what it is.

The left side has a grommet which seals up the pipe fitting. Loosen the pipe union nut on the right, remove the pump bolts holding it to the tank base, slide the entire pump left slightly to free the pipe on the right. Once free, pull the pump forward and slide it back to the right. The pipe should slide out of the grommet.

As someone mentioned, lube up that pipe first with some soap or silicone. You don't want that grommet catching on the pipe or it could potentially end up in the tank it it pushes free.

Edit - looking at it again, the black pipe does unscrew from the pump body there as well. See the knurlings? Couple different ways it could be extracted.
 

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