Old fuse Panel

jmcdboater

jmcdboater

Well-Known Member
May 28, 2022
574
Stockton, CA
Boat Info
1988 300 DA Sundancer
Vessel JIM’N’I IV
Engines
Twin 5.7L Mercs w/Alpha One Drives
Koehler KVA 4 Genset
Hi Everybody,
Need some help. We have an older girl, ‘88 300 SunDancer. See attached picture of an old fuse block, I need to replace it. Should I be trying to find one like this, or just get something newer? I’m having trouble with blowing fuses on my Vaccuflush pump, I think my pump might be seizing…..makes things difficult for my wife, she shouldn’t have to always leave the boat and go up to the marina shower room….I gotta get this thing fixed…any suggestions?
E15E43CA-2AF1-41D4-B68B-359B89D6457D.jpeg
 
You have a couple (all?) connections that are overheating because of corrosion at the screw terminals, or in the crimp connectors themselves. I'd be inclined to upgrading the fuze panel with the newer blade-style fuses. Some of them even go as far as having an LED next to each fuse that lights up when the fuse blows. Both positive and negative buss bars with this one. https://www.amazon.com/WUPP-Blade-W...gifQ==&sprefix=fuse,aps,180&sr=8-2-spons&th=1
 
Appreciate the thoughts…..@Golfman25…I did consider that, but the left set of clips are very bent out of shape, and one end has melted into the plastic backing, IMHO it’s beyond clean-up/repair.
 
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@Nater Potater, my lack of electrical know-how is starting to show…. I’m very willing to replace this fuse block, but I do not understand ‘both positive and negative buss bars with this one’. Wouldn’t all fuse blocks have both positive & negative busses? If I had an exact replacement, moving all the connectors from old block to the new block is simple….o_O
 
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So @Nater Potater, the long, common, horizontal bar in my picture would be the negative buss, and the opposite end of each fuse connectors would be the positive? But are they busses?
 
The long buss in the middle is the B+ buss (common battery +). The shorter one on the bottom is the B- buss (common ground). Looks like almost every connection on that fuse block is bad, indicated quickly by the discoloration of the connector.

Most times, when the connector gets overheated like that, the wire itself is compromised and needs to be cut back to good / clean wire, and then properly terminated to an extension to make it fit again. Or relocate the fuse block to accommodate the shorter wires. Problem is, a lot of folks "think" they know how to wire boating electrical systems but fail miserably and leave the connections exposed to the hostile elements, as seen in this one..

Try Blue Seas Systems for any combination you can dream up. https://www.bluesea.com/products/category/16/Fuse_Blocks
 
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Thanks for those clarifications, @Bill Curtis, so on the B- buss, would assume the heavy wire on the left is the feed (battery)? Looking at the new blade type blocks, configuration is different…common + and - need to be identified. The + feed is obvious…..
 
jmcdboater said:
...common + and - need to be identified. The + feed is obvious…..
Click to expand...
If I was to guess (never a good thing with electricity), the main common is the larger black wire seen about 7 o-clock in your first image. And, as @Bill Curtis noted, those crimp connectors are doo-doo. Get them out of there before you have an electrical fire! Check out Marine How-To for a great write-up; it helps to have some caffeine close at hand... The proper connectors incorporate solid copper construction, possibly an insulation support sleeve, and sealant-lined heat-shrink tubing that seals to the wire's insulation, effectively sealing out the elements. They ain't cheep, but well worth it in my book.
I pirated an image from that article:
05-Marine-Wire-Termination.jpg

You might recognize the third style that he labels as "Junk do not use on a boat". Don't feel like I'm picking on you; anyone who finds themselves with a boat having prior owners will probably find these strewn throughout. My entire twin engine boat's instrument panel is wired with nothing but with these turds! Yeah, not looking forward to that one...
 
Nater Potater said:
If I was to guess (never a good thing with electricity), the main common is the larger black wire seen about 7 o-clock in your first image. And, as @Bill Curtis noted, those crimp connectors are doo-doo. Get them out of there before you have an electrical fire! Check out Marine How-To for a great write-up; it helps to have some caffeine close at hand... The proper connectors incorporate solid copper construction, possibly an insulation support sleeve, and sealant-lined heat-shrink tubing that seals to the wire's insulation, effectively sealing out the elements. They ain't cheep, but well worth it in my book.
I pirated an image from that article:
05-Marine-Wire-Termination.jpg

You might recognize the third style that he labels as "Junk do not use on a boat". Don't feel like I'm picking on you; anyone who finds themselves with a boat having prior owners will probably find these strewn throughout. My entire twin engine boat's instrument panel is wired with nothing but with these turds! Yeah, not looking forward to that one...
Click to expand...
Thanks very much, @Nater Potater & @Bill Curtis, I have a bunch of the junk connectors, but I realize if I’m willing to spend $20 on a marine grade upgraded fuse block, and 3-4 hours doing the work, I’d be a fool to not use marine grade connectors. I’ll get some good ones, and thanks very much for your direction, really, really appreciate it.
 
jmcdboater said:
Thanks for those clarifications, @Bill Curtis, so on the B- buss, would assume the heavy wire on the left is the feed (battery)? Looking at the new blade type blocks, configuration is different…common + and - need to be identified. The + feed is obvious…..
Click to expand...

OK, what blade type block you looking at?

Here is one I have used a few times and it is 100% legit. https://www.bluesea.com/products/5025/ST_Blade_Fuse_Block_-_6_Circuits_with_Negative_Bus_and_Cover

Here is the drawing for it. Connections self explanatory.
upload_2022-9-26_3-52-43.png
 
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Something of that type, Nater Potater showed me one, Wupp from Amazon which is a similar type. We have free shipping with our Amazon Prime Acc., can get it in two days…
 
That fuse block does not look factory, neither do the connectors. I agree with what has already been mentioned. Depending on access, it should be a pretty easy project. If you have the room, put a block in with extra terminals for future needs. Be mindful of the wire gauge feeding the block on both the positive and negative side. Now would be a very good time to upgrade that with a much heavier gauge of tinned copper running back to the battery switch and engine ground. Based on the signs of heat, even without the corrosion, you likely don't have enough wire to support the draw. And the heat shrinkable connectors are super important.
 
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