Gimbal Bearing press fit?

Cole Dean

New Member
Jun 22, 2020
18
Fort Collins, CO
Boat Info
1989 Sea Ray 190 Bowrider.
Engines
5.7 Alpha One
Hello all,

1989 BR 190 that is getting repowered due to a cracked block. Long block on the way from Michigan Motorz, but while I wait I wanted to do the gimbal bearing, bellows, shift cable etc. I pulled the old one out that was not quite seized but close. New one just pushes into the housing which doesnt seem right. Guessing it spun at some point, and opened up the bore ? Are they a press fit? Seems as though they need to be, but I am new to boat mechanics, so thought I would ask here.

Thanks!

Cole
 
Should need to be "driven in". Anything less is a sign of an oversize bore.
 
Any pics available of the housing where the bearing seats and the bearing itself? This may be a silly question but do you have the “tolerance ring” on the bearing?
 
I just changed one on an Alpha Gen 2 and had to drive the bearing in with the drive/alignment tool. I froze it overnight in the freezer first and it was still tight.

Do you have the proper tool set to drive and align?

Also, have you inspected your steering pin since your engine is pulled. Be a good time to change it, if it is leaking.
 

Good video on how Gimble bearing work. The carrier should have to be driven in as already said. Without this kind of connection to the housing it might back out under operation which would be rather catastrophic to the assembly.


Another useful video on how the bearing can be replaced (just the bearing) using the same carrier too!
 
Are you using an OEM or aftermarket replacement bearing?

I was going to ask the same question. There are some ChiCom knockoffs with questionable specs sold on sites like fleabay and AMZ.
 
Any pics available of the housing where the bearing seats and the bearing itself? This may be a silly question but do you have the “tolerance ring” on the bearing?
Ill get a pic when I get to work. I do have the tolerance ring on the bearing. This is a greasable version vs the sealed ones they sell. The boat is new to me so I dont know the maintenance, but I am no stranger to bearing replacements, and by looking at the bore, it almost looks like the old bearing had spun in the bore
 
Are you using an OEM or aftermarket replacement bearing?
No I am not. But am now thinking about ordering a merc version. The bearing came in a kit of AMZ that included a puller, driver, and alignment tool. I did check the I.D. of both the old and new bearing on the alignment tool and fit was good. The O.D. of the new bearing seems to either be a couple 1000ths undersized or my bore is opened.
 
I just changed one on an Alpha Gen 2 and had to drive the bearing in with the drive/alignment tool. I froze it overnight in the freezer first and it was still tight.

Do you have the proper tool set to drive and align?

Also, have you inspected your steering pin since your engine is pulled. Be a good time to change it, if it is leaking.
I have both a puller and alignment tool with a bearing driver as well. Thanks for the heads up on the steering pin!
 

Good video on how Gimble bearing work. The carrier should have to be driven in as already said. Without this kind of connection to the housing it might back out under operation which would be rather catastrophic to the assembly.


Another useful video on how the bearing can be replaced (just the bearing) using the same carrier too!
What you forgot to mention is the tiny grease groove in the housing and the tiny grease hole in the bearing that will allow the grease to enter the bearing.
thats why merc stopped selling just the bearing. Too many people installing it backwards preventing grease from getting into the bearing.
 
No I am not. But am now thinking about ordering a merc version. The bearing came in a kit of AMZ that included a puller, driver, and alignment tool. I did check the I.D. of both the old and new bearing on the alignment tool and fit was good. The O.D. of the new bearing seems to either be a couple 1000ths undersized or my bore is opened.

Did you measure the O.D. of the old bearing and compare it to the new one?
 
How hard was it to remove the old bearing? That should give you some idea of the bores condition. You can also try reinstalling the old bearing, If it drives in tight then the issue is with the new one.
 
If it truly spun I think you have two choices.

1. Replace the housing
2. Get someone to tig the bore up slightly and send it.

I'd probably go with #2 because what do you have to lose??
 
Locktite bearing lock........
 

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