Bleed fuel lines? Fuel pump swap

boater2018

boater2018

Member
Feb 26, 2018
146
Boat Info
2000 Sea Ray 210 Sundeck
Engines
Mercruiser 5.0 EFI
2000 Sundeck 210 5.0 efi. I am in the process of replacing the fuel pump and regulator in my sundeck 210. I’m hoping to pull out the entire assembly (pump, cooler, regulator) and unhook the fuel lines at the fuel/water separator and then the fuel line that goes from the back top side of the cooler to the engine (haven’t looked at the engine end yet). Will I need to bleed the fuel lines when I re-assemble everything with the new parts? If so, how do I do it? Any advice on making the fuel pump swap is also appreciated. I was thinking there shouldn’t be much fuel come out of the lines when I unplug them, but if I’m wrong about that, feel free to offer advice. Mine has the spin on fuel water separator.
 
boater2018 said:
2000 Sundeck 210 5.0 efi. I am in the process of replacing the fuel pump and regulator in my sundeck 210. I’m hoping to pull out the entire assembly (pump, cooler, regulator) and unhook the fuel lines at the fuel/water separator and then the fuel line that goes from the back top side of the cooler to the engine (haven’t looked at the engine end yet). Will I need to bleed the fuel lines when I re-assemble everything with the new parts? If so, how do I do it? Any advice on making the fuel pump swap is also appreciated. I was thinking there shouldn’t be much fuel come out of the lines when I unplug them, but if I’m wrong about that, feel free to offer advice. Mine has the spin on fuel water separator.
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is it a cool fuel 2? If it is and it’s like our 98 5.7tbi was, no bleeding necessary. I followed the fuel filter change procedure which is to cycle the key without starting the engine 6-7 times and that filled the new fuel filter along with priming the line. It started right up, stumbled for a brief moment, and stabilized.

we didn’t have more that a few drops after taking the old one out. The biggest issue is access, the port engine was a nightmare because it was up against the outboard stringer.

R&R is pretty easy; if you’re changing the regulator there’s a tiny cupped screen in there you don’t want to lose, and don’t be alarmed when removing the pump because it just pushes into the cooler and seals with orings, the housing holds it all together.
 
Strecker25 said:
is it a cool fuel 2? If it is and it’s like our 98 5.7tbi was, no bleeding necessary. I followed the fuel filter change procedure which is to cycle the key without starting the engine 6-7 times and that filled the new fuel filter along with priming the line. It started right up, stumbled for a brief moment, and stabilized.

we didn’t have more that a few drops after taking the old one out. The biggest issue is access, the port engine was a nightmare because it was up against the outboard stringer.

R&R is pretty easy; if you’re changing the regulator there’s a tiny cupped screen in there you don’t want to lose, and don’t be alarmed when removing the pump because it just pushes into the cooler and seals with orings, the housing holds it all together.
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Thank you for the reply. I’m not sure about the cool fuel or not? It doesn’t say anywhere on the parts diagram or inside the boat in any of the parts. I have attached the parts diagram, which you may be able to tell from that. It’s a 2000 model, so I would think it is? Did you re-use your o-rings on the 90 degree fitting from the cooler to the fuel pump? Does it matter what kind of grease you use to lube the o-rings with when re-inserting that fitting? Thank you again
 

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CF2 it doesn't matter what grease but it does matter what O-rings. Regular rubber will break down eventually with E10. Unless the old ones are perfect I would get the correct ones.
 
scoflaw said:
CF2 it doesn't matter what grease but it does matter what O-rings. Regular rubber will break down eventually with E10. Unless the old ones are perfect I would get the correct ones.
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As far as I can tell, the o-rings on it are in good condition. I can't see any flaws visually and the fitting is snug when removing it from the fuel cooler. You have to work it round a little to get it to slide. I don't mind getting o-rings, it will probably just take a week to get them and I have it all apart now. Also, the shipping costs at all the sites I see them is charging several dollars per o-ring. It's treating each one like they will be individually shipped and not a set. I wish I had a marine parts store in town that had them in stock or cold get them in a reasonable amount of time. I assumed most people just re-used them, but this is my first time changing it, and I like to seek the expertise of others. Thank you for your reply
 
I reused them at the time but didn't consider the E10. If you know for certain you're always E-free or treat religiously it's probably fine.
 
Strecker25 said:
I reused them at the time but didn't consider the E10. If you know for certain you're always E-free or treat religiously it's probably fine.
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Thank you. I plan to only use ethanol free from here on. I have done that in the past, but ran a couple of tanks of E10 this year, along with ethanol free.
 
Also, the hose from the regulator seemed to not be connected to anything. I noticed on the parts diagram that it is supposed to go to the flame arrestor. This is the only location on the flame arrestor I can see that it might connect to. Does this look correct?
 
I noticed a pic didn’t load regarding the hose from the regulator. Thank you for the last reply. This original parts diagram says it goes to the flame arrestor. Not sure there’s a place for it on the intake manifold.
 

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I guess I didn't say when I re-posted the pic, but in the previous pic sent of the flame arrestor that I sent, is the circled location where the fuel regulator hose attaches? To re-iterate, the parts diagram previously posted says the hose goes to the flame arrestor...this is the only spot I see that it could go to. I just want to be sure it's connected right. Thank you
 
Don't see how it could get a proper signal there. Anything on the throttlebody itself? If nothing there I guess the flame arrestor is better than nothing,
 
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