Official Caterpillar3116/3126 Thread

I have a strange issue. starting port engine found everything dead. after 5 min I found the port breaker on main AC panel off or tripped?? this has happened twice since i owned the boat over the past two years. yesterday same issue but breaker on panel wasnt off. Instead I found the main breaker on the electrical box above the starter was tripped. I reset and engine rolled right over. I checked cables they looked fine. Thinking of removing the cables and cleaning all the connections. the only thing that confuses me is. it doesn't trip when cracking. its tripped when engine is cold and i go to start it?
 
fwebster said:
I found that rattle can paint doesn't hold up on boat engines. I got a paint supplier to color match Cat Matterhorn White in an acrylic enamel, then used a Preval spray bottle with the correct reducer and an enamel hardener. The acrylic enamel will not get dull over time and is a very hard paint that is easy to apply.

The match for Cat Matternhorn white is Nissan Paris White - paint code KH5
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Has anyone printed out all of Franks comments and put in a book form??
Im willing to make the first purchase.
Such good advice....
 
Saverio said:
I have a strange issue. starting port engine found everything dead. after 5 min I found the port breaker on main AC panel off or tripped?? this has happened twice since i owned the boat over the past two years. yesterday same issue but breaker on panel wasnt off. Instead I found the main breaker on the electrical box above the starter was tripped. I reset and engine rolled right over. I checked cables they looked fine. Thinking of removing the cables and cleaning all the connections. the only thing that confuses me is. it doesn't trip when cracking. its tripped when engine is cold and i go to start it?
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Sometimes when these marine circuit breakers sit they form corrosion and will get hot if any current is flowing then trip all on their own. Resetting will sometimes make a better connection internally. As these are in your engine room possibly due to the environment you need to replace them.
 
Hey Greg,

While you are chasing your overheating ghosts, have you considered that there is likely a normal VACUUM at the strainers at high RPM ?

Suggest you remove the strainer caps, clean the baskets, then apply a liberal coating of dielectric or silicone grease to the threads and top of the strainer caps and re assemble.

An air leak in there could maybe, possibly, perhaps, conceivable, perchance create the problem you are experiencing.

I dun did thought o this while doing my fresh water flushing fittings today

BEST !

RWS
 
My strainer lids are hinged, and have two wing nuts, one that's permanently installed and one that comes off. Where are you suggesting I put the grease?

I want to start replacing raw water hoses as well if I can find any of them on catparts.com, I can't. Any idea what size the bigger ones are and where I can get them? The short elbow one going into the intake on my transmission coolers didn't look that great so I'd like to get those as well, but don't know where to find them.
 
mrsrobinson said:
My strainer lids are hinged, and have two wing nuts, one that's permanently installed and one that comes off. Where are you suggesting I put the grease?

I want to start replacing raw water hoses as well if I can find any of them on catparts.com, I can't. Any idea what size the bigger ones are and where I can get them? The short elbow one going into the intake on my transmission coolers didn't look that great so I'd like to get those as well, but don't know where to find them.
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I replaced EVERY raw water & coolant hose on my 26 year old engines.

All hoses after the fuel cooler were sourced from MILEY CAT.

In cases where the hose was not curved or moulded, MILEY CAT provided straight hose for me to cut, some blue silicone, some black standard hose.

Wouldn't be a bad idea to smear a generous coating of silicone grease on the gasket where the strainer cap seals to the strainer. Perhaps even replace those gaskets as well.

Super Lube 91003 Silicone High-Dielectric and Vacuum Grease, 3 oz.: Power Tool Lubricants: Amazon.com: Tools & Home Improvement

I even put it on the end of every wire that gets a butt or spade connector.
CRC Dielectric Grease 02085 – 3.3 Wt Oz., Non-Curing Silicone Compound for O-Rings, Fasteners, Rubber, Plastic Parts: Power Tool Lubricants: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

There's a whole lotta suction between the raw water pump and the hull intakes.

When I was doing my fresh water flush plumbing today, I thought about the strainers and your overheating problem.

It's a quick and easy thing to do.

I use dielectric teflon grease on all my electrical connections and also apply to threads on plumbing stuff.

BEST !

RWS
 
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Thanks, I have some on the boat and will give it a shot. Planning to go to the boat tomorrow to try to do some more diagnosis and fixing.
 
Maybe A Dancer said:
I replaced EVERY raw water & coolant hose on my 26 year old engines.

All hoses after the fuel cooler were sourced from MILEY CAT.

In cases where the hose was not curved or moulded, MILEY CAT provided straight hose for me to cut, some blue silicone, some black standard hose.

Wouldn't be a bad idea to smear a generous coating of silicone grease on the gasket where the strainer cap seals to the strainer. Perhaps even replace those gaskets as well.

Super Lube 91003 Silicone High-Dielectric and Vacuum Grease, 3 oz.: Power Tool Lubricants: Amazon.com: Tools & Home Improvement

I even put it on the end of every wire that gets a butt or spade connector.
CRC Dielectric Grease 02085 – 3.3 Wt Oz., Non-Curing Silicone Compound for O-Rings, Fasteners, Rubber, Plastic Parts: Power Tool Lubricants: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

There's a whole lotta suction between the raw water pump and the hull intakes.

When I was doing my fresh water flush plumbing today, I thought about the strainers and your overheating problem.

It's a quick and easy thing to do.

I use dielectric teflon grease on all my electrical connections and also apply to threads on plumbing stuff.

BEST !
+1 on all hoses. In process of same on the raw water side. Port motor is done, starboard to follow when I get a cooler day or two. The dreaded exhaust tube has to be removed for access. Took Fwebster’s advice and didn’t cheap out on the clamps or hoses, bought them from Milton Cat. The coolant water hoses will be done in the fall on the hard. It’s time for a coolant change too so I’ll let it drain into the bilge with the drain plug out and bucket under to collect.

Steve



RWS
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Looks pretty clean to me. Usually, solution turns a blackish murky color with really heavy accumulation.
 
Strecker25 said:
looks good. Another thought I had about your issue….have you verified the coolant side, specifically that there is no air caught in there? If the coolant side is airlocked even a little you might experience issues like you’ve run into.
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This…especially since you said “pink”…
 
I think the pink I saw was more rusty brown in color. How do I check for an air leak?
 
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mrsrobinson said:
I think the pink I saw was more Rusty Brown in color. How do I check for an air leak?
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there’s a procedure to purge air in the service manual. I can pull it for you in a bit

Edit: nevermind, it's nothing special, I thought there was a special process. See the attached PDF - they just have you fill the system slowly to not lock air in and the run it up to bare idle RPM to purge air. You've effectively done this if you've run the boat at WOT but it wouldn't hurt to try it again
 

Attachments

  • Coolant - Change.pdf
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dtfeld said:
Looks pretty clean to me. Usually, solution turns a blackish murky color with really heavy accumulation.
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Yeah I agree, doubt this is a source of the engine overheating. I was overheating, 95° at the dock, so I didn't put things back together and take her out for a test drive
 
I didn't realize until today there are two hoses coming out of the raw water pump, one for the aftercooler and the other for the heat exchanger.
 
Here's the flow diagram.

I'd give credit to the source, but I just can't recall where I got this.

BEST !

RWS
3126 _Raw_Water_Cooling_Circuit_Diagram.jpeg
 
Greg,

In the process of setting up a zero baseline (as per Dr. Webster & Tom Mott) and having all the coolers serviced and tested* by MILEY CAT, I also removed and acid tanked the exhaust risers/elbows. I did one, CAT did the other.

There was a lot of growth in there.

When you are circulating the barnacle buster with a pump I wonder if it gets into all the nooks and crannies as the seawater does when running under pressure & exhaust?

Could this be an overlooked factor in your overheating issue?

*transmission coolers replaced with new

BEST !

RWS
 
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