mrsrobinson
Well-Known Member
I pulled the cap off of the port one and it was clean, with the exception of the small pieces of rubber you see at the bottom, which I pulled out.
Official Caterpillar3116/3126 Thread
- Thread starter carterchapman
- Start date
mrsrobinson
Well-Known Member
Here's a pic I found from our trip bringing her home 4 weeks ago, prior to the mud event. 2400 RPMs, 180 degrees port engine.
Should I pull the heat exchangers off and have them cleaned next? After coolers? Flush the raw water side with Barnacle Buster? Other?
Should I pull the heat exchangers off and have them cleaned next? After coolers? Flush the raw water side with Barnacle Buster? Other?
- Jun 2, 2008
- 5,023
- Boat Info
- 1998 450 Sundancer, Achilles dinghy w/15hp
- Engines
- 3126 Cat's
When I did thermostats 3 years ago CAT raised the temp's to 195°. I have never exceeded that number. I would check your transmission oil coolers too.
douglee25
Well-Known Member
That bottom pic sure looks like mud/sand, no?
mrsrobinson
Well-Known Member
Could be. I started pushing a rod through them to clean them when I realized it was going to get blocked on the other side where the orher end cap was still installed. I was able to get all of the bolts off of that end cap except one, which was going to require disassembling some other parts to get access to, so I stopped. I thought at that point it would be easier to remove the heat exchanger and clean it off the boat if that was the issue.
- Aug 20, 2021
- 1,298
- Boat Info
- Started out as MAYBE A DANCER
Became a Dancer - 12/23/21
- Engines
- 450 DA Sundancer running CAT 3126
Greg,
You have stated that this is a boat with no significant documented service history, a situation similar to mine.
Your boat is over 20 years old.
Why not just go through all the systems and bring them back to standards?
Seems to me you will gain reliability and safety and reduce unexpected, very costly issues taking this route rather than chasing problems as they come up.
Just MHO.
BEST !
RWS
You have stated that this is a boat with no significant documented service history, a situation similar to mine.
Your boat is over 20 years old.
Why not just go through all the systems and bring them back to standards?
Seems to me you will gain reliability and safety and reduce unexpected, very costly issues taking this route rather than chasing problems as they come up.
Just MHO.
BEST !
RWS
Riptide III
3D
- Dec 8, 2007
- 1,139
- Boat Info
- 1997 Sea Ray 400DA
Cat 3116 TA
1994 Sea Ray Laguna CC 250 Tohatsu
- Engines
- :
That heat exchanger is almost 50% clogged. That is horrible. It travels from the bottom. Across then back at the top. The top half that looks clean is the return. That will most certainly affect engine temp. I think you found the source of the problem
Also keep in mind the transmission cooler is last in line and has the smallest tubes, it should be cleaned as well
- Aug 20, 2021
- 1,298
- Boat Info
- Started out as MAYBE A DANCER
Became a Dancer - 12/23/21
- Engines
- 450 DA Sundancer running CAT 3126
For me, the transmission cooler was 25 years old with an UNKNOWN saltwater service history.
Let's see...... cost of replacing transmission due to seawater intrusion vs cost of cleaning 25 year old cooler vs cost of new cooler........
I did the math and took the advice of Dr. Webster......
REPLACED THE COOLERS.
Let's see...... cost of replacing transmission due to seawater intrusion vs cost of cleaning 25 year old cooler vs cost of new cooler........
I did the math and took the advice of Dr. Webster......
REPLACED THE COOLERS.
mrsrobinson
Well-Known Member
Yes, that was and still is the plan, running the boat in mud and overheating the engines was never part of that plan though. I'd like to focus on getting this resolved while at the same time continuing with service.
mrsrobinson
Well-Known Member
Thank you, this is what I need to hear having never looked at one myself. I'm hearing you say it it looks clogged with mud, not that it needs descaling, correct? To refresh everyone's memory the boat ran flawlessly for 12 hours after we took ownership, and before we turned into our new marinas creek. and sucked up mud. Temperatures never got above 180° until after this event.
Riptide III
3D
- Dec 8, 2007
- 1,139
- Boat Info
- 1997 Sea Ray 400DA
Cat 3116 TA
1994 Sea Ray Laguna CC 250 Tohatsu
- Engines
- :
I’m not saying you shouldn’t bother to have it tanked. I am saying that if you clean the holes all the way thru that shouldn’t be the cause of an over temp. I am concerned with the condition of the o ring surfaces as depicted in the picture. They look like they need to be cleaned
There may also be a blockage down stream from the exchanger that may still cause high temp. (Gear cooler). But that exchanger alone will most certainly. Good luck
There may also be a blockage down stream from the exchanger that may still cause high temp. (Gear cooler). But that exchanger alone will most certainly. Good luck
mrsrobinson
Well-Known Member
For clarity I have heard "gear coolers" and "transmission coolers". Same thing, correct?
- Aug 20, 2021
- 1,298
- Boat Info
- Started out as MAYBE A DANCER
Became a Dancer - 12/23/21
- Engines
- 450 DA Sundancer running CAT 3126
GEAR or GEARS also refers to the TRANSMISSION.
Not trying to beat a dead horse here, however IMHO, I wouldn't spend a dime servicing those 20 year old saltwater exposed gear coolers with no service history.
You saw the pics I posted of mine - you should have seen what was growing in the risers/showerheads.
Everything is now squeaky clean, aftercoolers included.
Even if my 26 year old gear coolers looked perfect - I WOULD HAVE STILL CHANGED THEM
Next weekend I'll add the freshwater flush/SALT AWAY plumbing and will make this issue disappear for good !
Did this practice on my last diesel boat - never had to remove or service any of the coolers.
Just MHO and I practice what I preach.
BEST !
RWS
Not trying to beat a dead horse here, however IMHO, I wouldn't spend a dime servicing those 20 year old saltwater exposed gear coolers with no service history.
You saw the pics I posted of mine - you should have seen what was growing in the risers/showerheads.
Everything is now squeaky clean, aftercoolers included.
Even if my 26 year old gear coolers looked perfect - I WOULD HAVE STILL CHANGED THEM
Next weekend I'll add the freshwater flush/SALT AWAY plumbing and will make this issue disappear for good !
Did this practice on my last diesel boat - never had to remove or service any of the coolers.
Just MHO and I practice what I preach.
BEST !
RWS
mrsrobinson
Well-Known Member
Thank you. The boat came from Chicago, fresh water, and then mostly fresh for the last 6 years on the middle to upper Chesapeake Bay. The transmission coolers were cleaned 2 years ago when one of the transmissions was replaced. I think they are ok, minus the mud event, but to your point, who really knows.
Looking at these pictures I would be concerned with my bonding system and asking - why aren't my zinc's being consumed.
- Aug 20, 2021
- 1,298
- Boat Info
- Started out as MAYBE A DANCER
Became a Dancer - 12/23/21
- Engines
- 450 DA Sundancer running CAT 3126
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Good point Tom.
She was a dock queen and other than oil changes & zincs, not a lot of attention was given to the engine room.
When I removed the coolers I cleaned every engine bonding wire with a die grinder then put some dielectric grease on each connection.
Perhaps I should also check for continuity between the engine's ground and the bonding system?
RWS
I would. You must have less than 1 ohm between every metal object that sees raw water and the bolt to the zinc on the transom.
- Aug 20, 2021
- 1,298
- Boat Info
- Started out as MAYBE A DANCER
Became a Dancer - 12/23/21
- Engines
- 450 DA Sundancer running CAT 3126
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Thank you.
Still LEARNING this vessel.
What part does the plate in bottom of the hull, facing downward (not the transom zinc) play in the system?
Should that be a part of the bonding test as well?
That is a "dynaplate" and serves to establish a static ground for electronics and lightning protection. It is bonded also but not a component of the galvanic protection.
