it is actually stock. I want to swap in nice bright white LED’s but haven’t had the chance. They do a decent job though, I think the PO put new bulbs in a couple years ago
there’s also an element of photo editing in that picture….
Official Caterpillar3116/3126 Thread
- Thread starter carterchapman
- Start date
it is actually stock. I want to swap in nice bright white LED’s but haven’t had the chance. They do a decent job though, I think the PO put new bulbs in a couple years ago
there’s also an element of photo editing in that picture….
GnrlPatton
Well-Known Member
- Jul 12, 2010
- 719
- Boat Info
- Current: 1998 370 Express Cruiser
Sold:1988 230 Weekender
- Engines
- Twin Cat 3116T
I ordered these a few years ago: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0733RQDXL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I used the existing wiring and just replaced all of the lights in the bilge, these are a little bigger footprint, but they fit for my boat. Made a huge difference in being able to see into the darkest corners of the bilge.
bbwhitejr
Well-Known Member
Get new covers and swap to LED bulbs. I need to do this as well. Very cheap! I did this on the DB, need to do it now.
Bennett
mrsrobinson
Well-Known Member
How does one know when they need to drain the racor? I assume if you see water on the bottom?
Your’e meant to use two grips on the bottom of those racors I believe. One on the larger. ‘Disc’ which is part of the metal ‘bowl’, and a wrench on the drain plug. Then you can loosen the drain plug without spinning the metal bowl. Once the drain plug is fully out the metal bowl will come loose, as will a load of fuel of course so have the fuel line shutoff on and collection container ready and nitrile gloves on. When reinstalling don’t overtighten the drain valve , it will strip the plastic bowl thread. O rings are also in the equation on the drain plug . Then there’s the Extensive discussions on topping up, priming etc which are well documented elsewhere . The metal bowls are indeed only for fire protection.
- Aug 20, 2021
- 1,308
- Boat Info
- Started out as MAYBE A DANCER
Became a Dancer - 12/23/21
- Engines
- 450 DA Sundancer running CAT 3126
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
I am also planning, well it's a ways down the list, a new, separate LED at the top of both engine room bilge pump areas which are currently in the shadows.
These are very important areas and it should be easy to see what's going on in there.
BEST !
RWS
Or gunk or growth or discoloured fuel. If the fuel is not too thick with nasties, you should be able to drain just by loosening the plug without taking it right out. But if you can’t get a good seal screwing it back in as said don’t overtighten, take it right off and change o ring . When you have finished the whole rigmarole, and topped off the Racor , and primed , watch the plastic bowl, you should see no bubbles while engine is running, if you see bubbles coming up from the drain you are sucking in air so drain plug has not sealed.
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thanks for so much detail, very much appreciated. One question, the advice on the forum is generally to add additives at the time of fuelling. But my fuel is usually added at the yard when I am not there. (at a premium no doubt compared with public bowsers ). Can the additives be added on top of what's in the tank in anticipation of a fuel up
mrsrobinson
Well-Known Member
I have fueled up three times since I bought my boat. I did the additives once during fuel up, afterwards the other two times. I could be wrong but my assumption has been the advice to add it at fill up is so it would mix in better as you put fuel in the tanks. If this assumption is correct than I think you are fine, as everything will mix up when the yard fills them up.
- Jun 5, 2016
- 5,564
- Boat Info
- 410 Sundancer
2001
12" Axiom and 9" Axiom+ MFD
- Engines
- Cat 3126 V-Drives
I add the additives before fueling and wash them down the fill pipe to make sure of adequate mixing. The fill pipe is pretty long in these boats.
However, I think adding them before will be just fine. It’s more important to treat, so if all you can do is add before. That’s fine.
The hardest part is figuring out the dosing if you don’t know how much they are adding. My suggestion is to add for the maximum you expect to go in each tank. You really can’t over do this stuff (with in reason).
Diesel engines circulate way more fuel through the system than they consume, so once in the tank, it will mix just fine.
Steve S
Well-Known Member
- Jun 5, 2007
- 3,129
- Boat Info
- 2000 400 Sedan Bridge with twin CAT 3116's
2000 340 Sundancer - SOLD!
210 Monaco 1987 - SOLD!
- Engines
- Twin Caterpillar 3116's 350 HP straight drives
I put in the additives per Frank's recommendations, prior to adding the diesel fuel. I premix them in two containers for 100 gallons each. That makes it easy at the fuel dock. I usually fill up when I hit 1/2 tanks on the fuel gauges. That typically is about 80-85 gallons per side or slightly less.
GnrlPatton
Well-Known Member
- Jul 12, 2010
- 719
- Boat Info
- Current: 1998 370 Express Cruiser
Sold:1988 230 Weekender
- Engines
- Twin Cat 3116T
That's my approach as well, I reuse the containers from the additives, and I've written on them that they will treat 1/2 tank for each container. If I'm only putting in a 1/4 tank, I'll use half the container. I pre-mix the containers and usually will keep 8 full containers on board so they are ready at fill up time.
I will also err on the side of overdosing with the additives, within reason as David said, so I will have adequate coverage.
bbwhitejr
Well-Known Member
mrsrobinson
Well-Known Member
I got the port impeller replaced today, no too bad. I tried to remove both exhaust pipes to do the starboard. Smaller of the two, the thru hull came off easy. Big ones are not. Any tips/tricks on how to get them off? I am not getting in there unless they are removed.
Dock mate had a special socket to remove the oil sensor behind the raw water pump which made the job easier. Franks @fwebster bolt worked like a charm.
Dock mate had a special socket to remove the oil sensor behind the raw water pump which made the job easier. Franks @fwebster bolt worked like a charm.
Thin scraper or putty knife run all around between the tube and the hose to break it loose. They get really stuck on
mrsrobinson
Well-Known Member
Yup, did that and shot some lubricant in the gap, that worked.
mrsrobinson
Well-Known Member
Engines are running cooler with the new raw water impellers, but still not as cool as they did before I sucked up mud 4 weeks ago. On plane the port is running just under 200, starboard right at 200 at the gauge at the helm. Are these acceptable temperatures for these engines?
mrsrobinson
Well-Known Member
The starboard radiator cap was leaking so I replaced it with what caterpillar said I needed, maybe that's why that engine is running a little hotter?
Old than new
Old than new
- Jul 16, 2020
- 1,891
- Boat Info
- 1999 450 Express Bridge, 9’ Achilles dinghy w/15hp Suzuki EFI
- Engines
- Caterpillar 3126TA
My 3126s idle at 180 and climb to 185/190 at 2400 rpm. 200 seems high.
douglee25
Well-Known Member
Did you pull the HXer apart? What did you find?
