Official 290 Sundancer Thread

I have run wires behind the headliner without removing it by using a fish tape. You may be able to use a filler behind the fabric, if there's enough excess material.
It turns out that the back panel can move that much. I just needed to pull it back. I thought it would have been more solid.
 
Hey Crew, just received my CSR burgee, what mounting post do I need to buy to get it up and flying?!
 
Ok crew, I’m getting ready for risers but, look at my picture of what is currently installed. Broker told me both engines were replaced at different times, no receipts. Super electrician was stumped about which one was newer. Which way do I go to get them the same? Appears the starboard engine has dry risers? It does run about 5-10 degrees warmer, right about 170 where the port engine runs a touch over 160. Thanks in advance.
JonView attachment 112229
So no one commented on the wet vs dry risers, I’m going with dry. On another note, now that all gauges are working STB engine shows less the 12v on startup but then bump up the RPM and it jumps to 14v and stays there. Gear head in me says VR in the alternator, do I change the whole alternator or is the VR replaceable? I’m not scared of taking it apart, just a bit concerned about opening it up and ruining the “marine” ER safe portion of it.
Jon
 
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All my boats have been wet joint only so i can not give advise. I would never open up a alternator or starter due to that. I have ways just bought new ones
 
Also just my 2 cents, dont always just trust your guages all the time. I check my motors every other week with a lazer heat light to confirm. My 88 240 sorento with 5.7 started to pin the guage. I did the hand on riser test and was not that hot. Hit with lazer and was 170. Ended up being a faulty sensor that goes into neck of thermostat housing.
 
So no one commented on the wet vs dry risers, I’m going with dry. On another note, now that all gauges are working STB engine shows less the 12v on startup but then bump up the RPM and it jumps to 14v and stays there. Gear head in me says VR in the alternator, do I change the whole alternator or is the VR replaceable? I’m not scared of taking it apart, just a bit concerned about opening it up and ruining the “marine” ER safe portion of it.
Jon

Make sure you do a good check of all your wires and gauge before you replace parts. Get a good volt meter and check at the alternator to see if you are getting the same fluctuation to rule out that your gauge doesn't have a catch in its mechanism.
 
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Awesome thank you sir.
Original swivelee poles and their mounts are the best. I have one for the burgee/state flag on the bow and one for the trunk with the American flag. Len (the owner) is super helpful too, and willing to custom make stuff if you explain exactly what you are looking for. I wanted one for the grab rail on the arch, but since the grab rail is at an angle, the flag pole hole in the mount would have to be at a different angle to be precisely vertical. Len was working with on it at the end of the season, but time got away from me and it'll have to wait until the shrink wrap comes off.
 
Hey All, bought the Queen a new kayak, it’s 10Lx3Wx14”D. Anyone have a rack recommendation? We just need to keep it up on the boat. She will mostly use it around the marina and maybe when we start doing over nights on the hook.

Thanks as always, Jon
I’m going to post this on the other 290 Thread as well so sorry for the redundancy.

33D19B52-346B-4D71-8B00-3A05DC0C9594.jpeg
 
My galley sink is looking pretty tarnished. What is it made of? Do they have replacements if I can’t clean it?
 
Hey All, bought the Queen a new kayak, it’s 10Lx3Wx14”D. Anyone have a rack recommendation? We just need to keep it up on the boat. She will mostly use it around the marina and maybe when we start doing over nights on the hook.

Thanks as always, Jon
I’m going to post this on the other 290 Thread as well so sorry for the redundancy.

I'd cut down some noodles or pipe insulation and put it on the front railing and bungee cord the kayak to it with it on its side. The noodles/pip insulation would work as a softener so the kayak would have some grip and stay in one piece.
 
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76BB160A-A1CF-4CB1-9135-31EEA21F951E.jpeg Yes, this little black plastic knob if our door is closed too hard it will fall out. Check around your cabin.
 
Check with Flounder pounder & Boat outfitters. I will need one too, obviously falling out when the door closes hard is not normal.

Have a great 4th
 

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