Symptoms of a bad raw water impeller - both engines running hot

Got it out, got the new one in, got the boat back together, taking her for a cruise later today or tomorrow morning.

Taking the exhaust pipes off wasn't as difficult as I thought it would be and gave great access to that side. I went ahead and gunked that side of the engine.and cleaned the bilge as well while they were off.

For those following along at home and want to tackle the starboard engine themselves, cut yourself a thick piece of foam to go over top of the fuel tank mount. I wish I would have done that, I balled up a towel. That's where your left cheek will be if you're facing stern.

One of goof ups, and I did it on both engines, was I put the plate back on and realized I forgot to pop on that plastic little thing that goes over the end.

I got lucky with both keys, only had to make a couple turns, and I did that with Frank's bolt, to get it aligned. Pay attention to where the slot is before you put the new one in.

Port engine is running just under 200, starboard engine peaks a little over 200 now on plane. Both dropped down to 180 at idle. Both engines ran at 180 on plane prior to the mud event. So they are running 15 to 20 degrees warmer on plane than before.

What should I look at next?

MrsR, water temps on the bay and rivers feeding it are up. It may be a reason for the difference in temps. I’m not saying it is just that it could be.

Running aground, even at a slow speed stinks

mrsrobinson said:

I was wondering that as well, elevated water temperatures on the river

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Unless your river water is over 180° it shouldn't be effecting your engine water temperature...

dtfeld said:

You can remove the one with the 3 anodes in it. It is raw water only on that side.

Edit --> When you pull this, you might get a little bit of dripping coolant. I had to think about this due to the way this drawing is oriented in opposite of what I have in my boat.

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I was able to pull one of the two heat exchanger end caps off this weekend on the port engine. There was one bolt I could not get any kind of wrench on without starting to remove other parts for the other end cap so I stopped.

I started to push a rod thru a tube in the end cap I was able to removed when I realized I would only be packing mud/crud since the other end cap was still attached. I assume there is no value in pushing a rod thru one end if the other end cap is not removed to let any crud/gunk/mud push thru?

I do think I need to clean the Heat exchangers next. I assume the best/right way to do this is remove them and take them to a radiator shop?

If you are pushing mud, I think you’ll be ok. Once you get a little water flow, water should wash it through the system. If it’s all you can do for now, give it a shot. If you can get a little water through with a hose, all the better.

Worst case you’ll have to pull all the other crap to get the other cap off. I assume your referring to the coolant tank?

dtfeld said:

If you are pushing mud, I think you’ll be ok. Once you get a little water flow, water should wash it through the system. If it’s all you can do for now, give it a shot. If you can get a little water through with a hose, all the better.

Worst case you’ll have to pull all the other crap to get the other cap off. I assume your referring to the coolant tank?

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I can't recall but I do not think so. I think it was a tube, pipe, metal hose, something like that. It was the port motor, hull side, a lower bolt on the end cap. I got all of the others off except this one. There's no way I could figure out how to get a wrench on it without disassembly.

I would clean as many tubes as you can reach, and see if you can’t get some water flowing, and wash out what you can to get the season back on track.