2003.5 Sundancer 340 - all redone

SeaRay Sam

New Member
Jun 18, 2021
21
Boat Info
2003 Sea Ray Sundancer 2003 SDA
Engines
Twin 8.1S Mercruiser V-Drives
Hey all. Just posting pictures of all my changes. I upgraded the cockpit table. I also removed the cockpit wet bar and added a quartz countertop and Kenyon grill. Added a cherry and maple cut out over that to use the space as additional counter-space when grill is not in use. New upholstery, Nauteak cabin flooring, teak floor grate in the head and vinyl wrapped the hull. The boat had the standard white hull and I went to black. If anyone is wondering about vinyl wrapping the hull it stays really nice and shiny and doesn’t dull as easily as waxed gel coat but you do have to be very careful around the dock to avoid tearing it. I added dockmate bumpers in my slip and fleece wrapped bumpers for when I am visiting other marinas or tying up with friends.
 

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Beautiful work. You really went after it, and the result is fantastic.
 
Kudos looks great!:cool:
 
Looks awesome!! I’m very interested in how you did the Nauteak cabin flooring. Did you do the work or have it done? I hear so many bad stories about removing the OEM carpet and trying to level the floor from too much glue. If you don't mind, approx flooring cost?

Congrats on a great looking upgrade!!
Thanks
 
Thank you! I did the work alongside a very skilled carpenter who I hire to do all of my house work. The man is a surgeon with a chop saw lol.

Ripping up the carpet was not nearly as bad as I anticipated. It wasn’t fun but very doable. The floor also wasn’t that unlevel. The adhesive you buy alongside the product can be applied with a trowel and help make up for any minor differences in the subfloor. The product does bend so it can absorb minor curves, etc. There was one area in particular (to the left of the v-bearth) that almost every picture I’ve seen is left carpeted. It has a pretty decent curve. My guy used a heat gun to heat the flooring and molded it to the curve in the floor. Worked like a charm. We also used that method to curve a lot of the molding. The molding is plastic and takes curves nicely but by heating it and then running around the curve it would retain that shape when cooled. This way it wasn’t trying to spring back to a straight line after a little adhesive and screws were used to secure it in place.

Most people also don’t do all of the vertical surfaces. They leave them carpeted and just finish the floor up to the carpet. I purchased the cherry panels for the vertical surfaces. They also take curves very nicely. They can’t be heated to have them retain the curve but there is no need to. A little adhesive and very small finishing nails out of a nail gun (can’t see them even a little bit) is all it takes. We ended up rebuilding the slide out box for the couch/bed. The original has a curved cut out at the top for the handle. There was no nice way to finish that with the molding, flooring etc. Instead we made the box square and installed a stainless recessed latch. Works just as well and looks very clean.

The two floor hatches had to be rebuilt. When the carpet is removed it left close to 1/2” of space around the whole hatch. A lot of the jobs I’ve seen guys use a T molding for the hatch area to cover the gap between the floor and hatch. Instead we used a router to finish the edges nicely and no molding was needed.

We also rebuilt the stairs. We removed the old ones and used them as a template to trace onto new 3/4” plywood. I color matched paint to match the stair mounting pole/stringer and painted the underside of the plywood. Then we used the flooring and molding along the top.

The aft flooring was also a little additional project. It had curves/angles that were too sharp for the flooring or cherry vertical pieces. We built a subfloor on top which raised it about an inch and allowed use to then lay the flooring and deal with the side angles better.

All and all it was roughly 80 hours of labor. That being said you could do just the floor in a fraction of that time. A lot of time was spent on the stairs, vertical surfaces (I get why people keep them carpeted) and hatches (you could use the T molding to make it quicker). I wanted perfection so went to all of the extremes to get that result.

I ordered the Nautik flooring from Plasteak. They are a distributor of the product. I used them because after calling several places they had the best molding options and panels for the vertical spaces. Some other distributors recommended I go to Home Depot to find moldings, etc. Absolutely doable but again, I was looking for the best result possible.

I paid $2,400 in labor and about $3,500 for flooring, cherry panels, molding, adhesive, freight shipping. I was in the whole project for just under $6k.

Sorry for the long post but did my best to answer your question. As much work as the project is I think it completely changes the cabin and is a huge upgrade. I would highly recommend it.
 
Last edited:
Amazing work. Beautiful!
 
Hey all. Just posting pictures of all my changes. I upgraded the cockpit table. I also removed the cockpit wet bar and added a quartz countertop and Kenyon grill. Added a cherry and maple cut out over that to use the space as additional counter-space when grill is not in use. New upholstery, Nauteak cabin flooring, teak floor grate in the head and vinyl wrapped the hull. The boat had the standard white hull and I went to black. If anyone is wondering about vinyl wrapping the hull it stays really nice and shiny and doesn’t dull as easily as waxed gel coat but you do have to be very careful around the dock to avoid tearing it. I added dockmate bumpers in my slip and fleece wrapped bumpers for when I am visiting other marinas or tying up with friends.
stunning !!!!!
 

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