Official Caterpillar3116/3126 Thread

Njlarry said:
Great pic of an area on these engines l dont understand. Usually the raw water is injected in the upper exhaust elbow just where it slopes down away from the engine. But 3126 has the water injected before the exhaust pipe rises up and right next to the turbo where it looks like the whole section should get flooded.
It doesnt so what am I misunderstanding?
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it fills the riser and the riser has enough of a downward slope as it dumps into the first rubber hose section that it doesn’t backflow into the turbine. There’s also a fair amount of pressure coming out of the exhaust at all RPMs, including idle, that combat any backflow.

the joint to the turbine housing is dry, so raw water never touches the turbine, which is cooled by engine coolant (right side of the pic)

this is an upside down picture but they call it a shower head where the raw water dumps into the exhaust
BAA2CEFE-EFFA-4E03-8F78-B93A7E2867B9.jpeg


That being said, the guys at boatdiesel said to periodically check my brand new turbo’s turbine side because the old one had evidence of corrosion which destroyed the wastegate. The fix would be to increase the angle to the exhaust tube to create more slope but I’ve never read any other 410 owners reporting water reversion on the 3100 series
 
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What are you all seeing for oil pressure once up to temp?

I noticed this weekend the port side a little lower that I remember (on the helm gauge at idle, warm) - reading just under the first hash which should represent somewhere around 25psi

the engine mounted gauge reads closer to 30, similar to the other engine, but the port is fluctuating just a bit while it’s idling.

at load we see just over 50psi on the port helm gauge and 75 on the stbd. I’m pretty sure the helm gauge is off but I’ve never checked full rpm pressure at the engine gauge
 
Mine run around 50 at 2400 RPMs. They drop to 25 at idle. Brother-in-law on the boat Saturday said these are acceptable #s.
 
Regarding the stainless cap zinc on the aftercoolers, I assume everyone soaks them in muriatic acid to get the left over zinc out? If yes, where do you get your acid? Everything I see is 1 gallon or more, I only need a cup from what I see.

Also, I will need to unscrew the zinc from the caps boatzincs.com sent me. I tried by hand on the boat, no luck. I assume a pair of pliers, squeezing lightly, is the best way to remove them from the caps?
 
mrsrobinson said:
Regarding the stainless cap zinc on the aftercoolers, I assume everyone soaks them in muriatic acid to get the left over zinc out? If yes, where do you get your acid? Everything I see is 1 gallon or more, I only need a cup from what I see.

Also, I will need to unscrew the zinc from the caps boatzincs.com sent me. I tried by hand on the boat, no luck. I assume a pair of pliers, squeezing lightly, is the best way to remove them from the caps?
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I bought a gallon of muriatic at lowes and it’s lasted me about 10 years. I clean concrete with it, use it for stuff on the boat, etc.

Use a pair of small vice grips up near the thread so it doesn’t snap off and I bet it’ll come loose. Go easy though, they’re soft
 
I bought 2 sets of SS hex caps, and when time to change after cooler anodes, I just swap in the new set and then drop the old caps/remnant anode in a quart of Rydlyme (I bought a 5 gallon pail).

Once the caps are clean, I install a new anode with a small amount of blue loctite (and not much more than hand tight as the thread/neck can be easily broken), and a new o-ring from CAT. CAT o-ring is part# 1J-9671 and are about $1/each.
 
dtfeld said:
I bought 2 sets of SS hex caps, and when time to change after cooler anodes, I just swap in the new set and then drop the old caps/remnant anode in a quart of Rydlyme (I bought a 5 gallon pail).

Once the caps are clean, I install a new anode with a small amount of blue loctite (and not much more than hand tight as the thread/neck can be easily broken), and a new o-ring from CAT. CAT o-ring is part# 1J-9671 and are about $1/each.
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That's smart, I like that, thanks. Otherwise I have to wait for the muriatic acid/Rydlyme to dissolve the zinc left inside the cap. The ones from boatzincs.com include the o-ring.
 
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mrsrobinson said:
That's smart, I like that, thanks. Otherwise I have to wait for the muriatic acid/Rydlyme to dissolve the zinc left inside the cap. The ones from boatzincs.com include the o-ring.
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I wish I could claim the thought process , but I picked up on this technique somewhere on CSR.

But having the assemblies ready to go makes very quick work of the job once at the boat, where time is precious.
 
any chemistry experts amongst us who are also cat3116 experts (350hp turbo no aftercooler)

i have no known fuel issues at this time so preventative at next fill up.

is this spec ok for biocide. Im' looking for one I can easily get in Australia. Based on threads and web I need lubricity and biocide with no nasties that will damage o rings , seals , gaskets , or cause gunk in tank etc.

upload_2022-6-29_13-5-43.png


https://penriteoil.com.au/products/diesel-biocide-fuel-treatment

penrite assure me it's safe for all Diesel engines.
 
@Pgeee

I am not a chemist. Here is the MSDS for Biobor JF and Standyne Lubricity. I think just about any commercially available Biocide and/or Lubricity formula made for diesel fuel can be used, with the one exception. No Alcohol (ethanol, methanol etc) should be in the mix. Looking at what you have I don't see any red flags. Its just a couple petroleum based cleaning agents.

You may need to do some of your own research for what's available down under and make your own version of the "cocktail".

Biobor JF (Diesel Biocide)

upload_2022-6-29_7-38-9.png

upload_2022-6-29_7-42-52.png


Parker Standyne Lubricity Formula

upload_2022-6-29_7-55-41.png
 
Oh I agree with you, just sharing that as an option. While working on the boat this past weekend I kept leaning against one of the lights, that damn thing was hot.
 
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