- Jun 5, 2016
- 5,569
- Boat Info
- 410 Sundancer
2001
12" Axiom and 9" Axiom+ MFD
- Engines
- Cat 3126 V-Drives
CAT tends to use strait threads with an o-ring vs a tapered thread...so possibly. Not sure what you purchased. These are the stainless caps...
Official Caterpillar3116/3126 Thread
- Thread starter carterchapman
- Start date
CAT tends to use strait threads with an o-ring vs a tapered thread...so possibly. Not sure what you purchased. These are the stainless caps...
mrsrobinson
Well-Known Member
The ones on the after coolers are definitely the stainless caps referenced above. Somebody had put red polish on all of them.
We pulled two out from each after cooler and the zinc stayed inside. We were very careful turning them slow, I can't tell if the zinc broke off or they were already broken off. I can't imagine anything we did broke them off. Is there an easy way to reach in there and get these out?
The ones boatzincs.com sent me for the after cooler all have brass caps with the zincs already mounted in them, we could not pull them apart.
We pulled two out from each after cooler and the zinc stayed inside. We were very careful turning them slow, I can't tell if the zinc broke off or they were already broken off. I can't imagine anything we did broke them off. Is there an easy way to reach in there and get these out?
The ones boatzincs.com sent me for the after cooler all have brass caps with the zincs already mounted in them, we could not pull them apart.
Last edited:
mrsrobinson
Well-Known Member
My GFs brother-in-law replaced
I watched and learned.
The belts were original, they still had the factory white paint on them. The fuel rack has never been worked on either. There's a yellow piece on cylinder number one and some kind of wire that comes from the factory, my brother-in-law caterpillar mechanic said that's how he knows they've never been touched. All the valves were loose, but he said not too bad.
The inline filter on the westerbeak genny had tons of crud in it. When I started it it fired right up this time so I'm guessing that was my starting issues.
Unfortunately when we put her up on plane both engines creeped up to 200°. I think this is from the last time I ran the boat where we ran into mud at idle when docking. All of the sea strainers have been cleaned. When we brought her off plane back down to idle the temps dropped to 180°. I'm thinking it's the raw water impellers since both engines behaved exactly the same. Does that sound correct?
We were going to try to replace the raw water impellers, he's never done it before, he's not a marine caterpillar mechanic, rather heavy equipment, trucks buses etc. Port engine looks easy to get to, although there's a sensor of some kind behind it that will need to be removed, any idea what that is? I have impeller kits on the boat and I bought the bolt that Frank recommended.
- all fuel filters
- starboard engine fuel primer pump
- water and alternator belts
- both fuel filters on the westerbeak generator, racor and inline.
I watched and learned.
The belts were original, they still had the factory white paint on them. The fuel rack has never been worked on either. There's a yellow piece on cylinder number one and some kind of wire that comes from the factory, my brother-in-law caterpillar mechanic said that's how he knows they've never been touched. All the valves were loose, but he said not too bad.
The inline filter on the westerbeak genny had tons of crud in it. When I started it it fired right up this time so I'm guessing that was my starting issues.
Unfortunately when we put her up on plane both engines creeped up to 200°. I think this is from the last time I ran the boat where we ran into mud at idle when docking. All of the sea strainers have been cleaned. When we brought her off plane back down to idle the temps dropped to 180°. I'm thinking it's the raw water impellers since both engines behaved exactly the same. Does that sound correct?
We were going to try to replace the raw water impellers, he's never done it before, he's not a marine caterpillar mechanic, rather heavy equipment, trucks buses etc. Port engine looks easy to get to, although there's a sensor of some kind behind it that will need to be removed, any idea what that is? I have impeller kits on the boat and I bought the bolt that Frank recommended.
Last edited:
mrsrobinson
Well-Known Member
For those of you paying someone to do the valve lash, if your mechanically inclined it's not difficult, you can do it yourself. Toughest part of the job was cleaning off the gasket.
Last edited:
- Jun 2, 2008
- 5,024
- Boat Info
- 1998 450 Sundancer, Achilles dinghy w/15hp
- Engines
- 3126 Cat's
mrsrobinson
Well-Known Member
We did not replace the thermostats, he calls them regulators. I did not have any antifreeze on the boat and he was not sure how much we'd have to drain out when we replaced them.
First time on plane today since the mud event, after doing all of the service we took her out for a run. Both engines creeped up slightly past 200 while on plane, back down to 180 once at idle.
Right, the ones I purchased from CAT are 190 (not installed yet, see last post). The engines ran at 180 up until I sucked mud up into them while docking at the new to me marina 3+ weeks ago and they started to overheat. The sea strainers were packed full of mud. I cleaned them out then, and running at the dock the water flow has been good and temps at 180 or less.
First time on plane today since the mud event, after doing all of the service we took her out for a run. Both engines creeped up slightly past 200 while on plane, back down to 180 once at idle.
Last edited:
oil pressure sender. You can pull it off to get better clearance. The fuel line elbow can be rotated to make it easier as well
mrsrobinson
Well-Known Member
He mentioned it looks like a deep socket can be used to remove the oil pressure sender, sound right? I'm asking because I will be going back to the boat on my own to replace the impellers. Dreading doing the starboard one. .
mrsrobinson
Well-Known Member
Do you know if it seals with an o-ring or pipe thread, need to know in case I have to purchase a new o-ring to reinstall it.
i think it’s just a pipe thread but I’m not positive, sorry.
I don’t think a deep well would be what he’s looking at. Maybe it’s something else, ours looks something like this
- Mar 25, 2008
- 5,522
- Boat Info
- 2006 Sea Ray 58 DB
- Engines
- MAN CRM V8-900s, Twin Disc Drives; Onan 21.5 Generator
I used a small diameter LH Threaded drill and they came right out...Don't recall why I thought reverse threaded drill would be better than a standard one!
- Mar 25, 2008
- 5,522
- Boat Info
- 2006 Sea Ray 58 DB
- Engines
- MAN CRM V8-900s, Twin Disc Drives; Onan 21.5 Generator
That's a handsome engine Ryan!
ha thank you my friend. I’m very proud of our bilge after many hours of cleaning and care
mrsrobinson
Well-Known Member
I thought about that and we how to drill on the boat, but they're not stuck in the holes, they're just laying in their loose.
Riptide III
3D
- Dec 8, 2007
- 1,139
- Boat Info
- 1997 Sea Ray 400DA
Cat 3116 TA
1994 Sea Ray Laguna CC 250 Tohatsu
- Engines
- :
I can’t tell you how jealous I am.
mrsrobinson
Well-Known Member
Njlarry
Well-Known Member
Great pic of an area on these engines l dont understand. Usually the raw water is injected in the upper exhaust elbow just where it slopes down away from the engine. But 3126 has the water injected before the exhaust pipe rises up and right next to the turbo where it looks like the whole section should get flooded.
It doesnt so what am I misunderstanding?
The drain nut also holds that shield on. My understanding is it’s actually just a heat shield and not a bowl of any kind, it has holes in the bottom
- Mar 25, 2008
- 5,522
- Boat Info
- 2006 Sea Ray 58 DB
- Engines
- MAN CRM V8-900s, Twin Disc Drives; Onan 21.5 Generator
CAT can order you two new CAT MARINE POWER decals for your aftercooler covers - $20 when I ordered mine 6 yrs ago...
