Official Cummins 6cta 450C thread

So a little pissed off today… I lost the starter solenoid on the port engine….same solenoid I lost 3 years ago so I had a spare on board…..wife wants to go home ….so crawl down there ….. 30 phucks later the high voltage side is 90 degrees different….the two lugs… I know I ordered the right part number. I guess and put the wiring on the lugs and get out of there sweating and bleeding…..hit the start button and nothing…..wtf….. I was so pissed at that point I went down there again and jumped it with a screw driver… got it going and went home.

so jumped the high voltage side with a screw driver….. so that tells me the low voltage side must be the problem….. do you guys think it matters….could the wiring be backwards …..on the low voltage side?

any idea why I would be blowing starting solenoids ?
 
Blueone said:
So a little pissed off today… I lost the starter solenoid on the port engine….same solenoid I lost 3 years ago so I had a spare on board…..wife wants to go home ….so crawl down there ….. 30 phucks later the high voltage side is 90 degrees different….the two lugs… I know I ordered the right part number. I guess and put the wiring on the lugs and get out of there sweating and bleeding…..hit the start button and nothing…..wtf….. I was so pissed at that point I went down there again and jumped it with a screw driver… got it going and went home.

so jumped the high voltage side with a screw driver….. so that tells me the low voltage side must be the problem….. do you guys think it matters….could the wiring be backwards …..on the low voltage side?

any idea why I would be blowing starting solenoids ?
Click to expand...
Did you put a meter to it to make sure it’s not the mag switch that has failed?
 
ZZ13 said:
Did you put a meter to it to make sure it’s not the mag switch that has failed?
Click to expand...
No but I like how you think….thanks I will check tomorrow morning…. Just thinking this thru how would I check that by myself when I can’t press start and check at the same time
 
Blueone said:
So a little pissed off today… I lost the starter solenoid on the port engine….same solenoid I lost 3 years ago so I had a spare on board…..wife wants to go home ….so crawl down there ….. 30 phucks later the high voltage side is 90 degrees different….the two lugs… I know I ordered the right part number. I guess and put the wiring on the lugs and get out of there sweating and bleeding…..hit the start button and nothing…..wtf….. I was so pissed at that point I went down there again and jumped it with a screw driver… got it going and went home.

so jumped the high voltage side with a screw driver….. so that tells me the low voltage side must be the problem….. do you guys think it matters….could the wiring be backwards …..on the low voltage side?

any idea why I would be blowing starting solenoids ?
Click to expand...

Most solenoids don't care about polarity so unlikely the issue. Agree with @ZZ13, unfortunately it sounds like time to break out the meter and find the issue.

You can disconnect high amperage side and test the solenoid with the helm switch and by jumping 12 VDC straight from the battery. If it works straight from the battery and not the helm switch, it is a helm switch issue and you are going to have to shoot the wires.
 
Forrestkk said:
Most solenoids don't care about polarity so unlikely the issue. Agree with @ZZ13, unfortunately it sounds like time to break out the meter and find the issue.

You can disconnect high amperage side and test the solenoid with the helm switch and by jumping 12 VDC straight from the battery. If it works straight from the battery and not the helm switch, it is a helm switch issue and you are going to have to shoot the wires.
Click to expand...
Good point…. Thanks
 
Installed SBMAR Envirovents last night.

Had walker on the port and just an air cleaner on the starboard with crankcase just vented to ER.

Looking forward to see how it performs this weekend.

Starboard
20220617_071532.jpg


Port
20220617_071523.jpg
 
I need a little help from the forum to hunt down injector lines for my 6CTA. Last night as we ticked of the last 12 miles to go in the Bahamas my port engine suddenly started running rough and rolling back in power. Found one injector line where it comes out of pump was loose and I was able to pull it out of the cap. So I think it’s broken. Seaboard Marine is out of stock. Let me know what you find.
thanks
 
boaterholic said:
Ok thank you very much, I’ll try them tomorrow first thing!
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Shearwater has done a lot of work on my boat - recommend. I believe the Cummins 6C engines (truck and heavy machinery) use the same fuel lines. There is a plethora of 6C's out there so these should be readily available new and used.
 
boaterholic said:
Ok thank you very much, I’ll try them tomorrow first thing!
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If you are in West End, Freeport, Marsh Harbor, or Treasure give Lennox a call (242-727-2281). We lost steerage coming into West End three weeks ago and the OBB dock hand turned us on to Lennox; he and his crew were at the boat within an hour from Freeport (this is after 5PM) and had the steering ram out of the boat, rebuilt in Freeport, and back in the boat the next day (Saturday). He may just be able to help.
 
ttmott said:
If you are in West End, Freeport, Marsh Harbor, or Treasure give Lennox a call (242-727-2281). We lost steerage coming into West End three weeks ago and the OBB dock hand turned us on to Lennox; he and his crew were at the boat within an hour from Freeport (this is after 5PM) and had the steering ram out of the boat, rebuilt in Freeport, and back in the boat the next day (Saturday). He may just be able to help.
Click to expand...
will do, thank you!
 
Well, my new Envirovents worked great but then this....ughh. Yup, that is my port dip stick and the tube. Of course, the bottom of the tube is still in the engine.

20220619_171400.jpg


Anyone deal with getting a broken dipstick tube out on these engines?

Thinking an easy-out, vice grips, and tapping at the moment, but open to any suggestions?

In case you were wondering, a piece of thick rubber gasket material cut into a plug shape and an oil absorbent pad kept the leak down to a little dribble.

20220619_171345.jpg
 
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Thanks all for the help locating injector lines. I was able to source the broken line from several different places and have two coming from different Distributers and shipping to Islands in different forms hoping at least one gets to me by end of week if not sooner!
 
Bob Holser said:
Sorry brother. Never heard of that happening. I will be interested in hearing more.
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So, here is a video that shows how to get this done. At least my dipstick is easier to get too! Dropping the link in case it happens to anyone else

 
Forrestkk said:
So, here is a video that shows how to get this done. At least my dipstick is easier to get too! Dropping the link in case it happens to anyone else

Click to expand...

Well, have tried threading the bolt in...threads in just fine, but after applying some force to the bolt the dipstick tube the metal is so soft it just pulls out. 5/16" fit and tried both machine and lag threads. Obviously put some heat on to no avail.

The extractor snugs up well, but I am afraid to break it off and go from relative soft metal stuck in the block to hard metal being stuck in the block.

Any thoughts???

20220622_195314.jpg
 
Maybe try a flange bolt just small enough to fit down the tube and catch the bottom. Then you may be able to pry up to extract the tube. Little heat on the boss may help too.
 
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