420 DA Thread

Well Captsteve427 I know you're currently involved in fuel sending unit but did you ever install or try to install those shiny new scuppers or are you definitely waiting till fall haul out?

Brewster, I’m going to wait till she gets hauled to swap them out. The ones I purchased are are the same exact ones the boat was built with. They’ll look nice with the new boot stripe I just applied. I’ll post photos when they’re in.
 
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I just listed a table in the Classified/parts section for anyone looking for a solid 17” x 31” teak & holly table.
 
Blueone.....just curious how your boat shade project came out? I was reading some of the post about Blackstick poles and other options and of course the pic of your drilled out rod holder holes.
 
Does anyone know where I can get the rotating glass plate that goes in the factory Sharp microwave?
I’ve contacted Sea Ray, Sharp and every on line appliance dealer on the WWW with no luck.
 

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Does anyone know where I can get the rotating glass plate that goes in the factory Sharp microwave?
I’ve contacted Sea Ray, Sharp and every on line appliance dealer on the WWW with no luck.

Amazon has a good selection. Look at the bottom and determine what the pattern of the “gear”is that locks into the bottom of the oven and then get the correct diameter. I have bought a few over the years as replacements.

Bennett
 
Here’s a pic of mine…. Looks pretty basic.
 

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So, I’d like to know how to use these switches that Cummins supplied to Sea Ray with the engines. Who knows how?
I only use the engine sync switch.
 

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So, I’d like to know how to use these switches that Cummins supplied to Sea Ray with the engines. Who knows how?
I only use the engine sync switch.


Cruise 1 & Cruise 2 are limiters. The Cummins will only go up to a predetermined RPM. As I recall when on cruise 1 it will stop at 2200 RPM. and cruise 2 may stop at 2000 RPM. It would be useful for a long trip where fuel consumption may be necessary.

The RPM +/- bumps your idle speed 100 rpm at a time. It can be useful for warming up an engine for oil change or possibly gaining a few pounds of oil pressure at idle. We use it on our Peterbilts to build air pressure or for keeping the air conditioner operating nice while at idle.
 
So I had an issue this weekend which may be of interest to everyone. My windlass was slipping as I tried to retrieve my anchor. So I used the manual winch to tighten the clutch and eliminate the slip. Unfortunately the clutch nut was ceased from years of salt and sun. When I applied pressure the threads on the nut stripped. Please make sure to follow the annual Lofrans maintenance recommendation by unlocking, remove-cleaning and greasing the clutch nut on your windlass!
 
So I had an issue this weekend which may be of interest to everyone. My windlass was slipping as I tried to retrieve my anchor. So I used the manual winch to tighten the clutch and eliminate the slip. Unfortunately the clutch nut was ceased from years of salt and sun. When I applied pressure the threads on the nut stripped. Please make sure to follow the annual Lofrans maintenance recommendation by unlocking, remove-cleaning and greasing the clutch nut on your windlass!

I would also recommend having a cover made for it.
 
Blueone.....just curious how your boat shade project came out? I was reading some of the post about Blackstick poles and other options and of course the pic of your drilled out rod holder holes.
Sorry missed this….. it’s probably been the biggest pain in the ass for a boat project…. I had a dock neighbor make it….that was a disaster.. I diaper pinned it to keep it some what tight last year… I could not get a canvas company to make a new one….. soon as they heard sun shade they must say not enough money….not one called me back.

I have a friend that is retired that still has a canvas shop…he agreed to replace my window in my aft curtain…..he saw me walk in with the aft curtain and the sun shade and started yelling don’t bring that thing in here before I was thru the door….he knew the story. He goes first of all you are too picky and second I don’t fix other peoples shit…. LOL. I calmed him down and he agreed to cut the folds out ……this is it today…..not tight enough for me…..but it works…

E31546FC-31E8-4300-9FD1-13FB2B70E2A8.jpeg
 
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Television removal.
Let me start off by mentioning that I have tried to search this information on the forum with zero success.
I finally got my 2005 DA in the water and tried the TV’s. No picture success via the Glomex.
I would think that these are pre digital signal TV’s and will not work without a digital converter?
Can’t see an easy rear of tv access on any of the three televisions.
Can’t someone point me in the right direction to access them and most likely replace them?
One last thing: Is a fire stick adaptable to them?
Thanks a million. One project at a time.
Regards,
Matt
 
Matt, to begin with, forget about the Glomex, and forget about the satellite dish that may be mounted on your hardtop. Your TV's are all analog and are already likely prewired and ready to go. But you'll need to get a cable service provider subscription to get a TV signal on your boat. In my case the coax cable comes out of the power post on my dock and goes into the aft locker and screws into the designated coaxial port in there.

If you take out the seatback on your couch you will see the wiring and boxes associated with TV's. Also, if you look in your master stateroom hanging locker you can remove the screwed in panel to access the back of your TV.

Having said that, if you you have wifi reception on your boat, you can convert any or all of your TV's to digital "smart TV's" and stream exactly as you do in your house.....The best advice I can give you is to hire a professional installer and save yourself a lot of frustration.
 
I removed OEM TVs and put new 24" or 28"s in the MST and aft cabin, a new 32" in the salon, and a new 40" in the cockpit-all are Smart TVs. I also replaced the Glomex, the amplifer, and ran new RG6 cable to the amplifier. We get 40 or so channels on the Glomex, have WiFi at the dock, and an iPhone for WiFi away from the dock. The Glomex saves on data away from the dock for all local news, Braves baseball, and some college football. The flat screens are all mounted on swing mounts that are mounted on the inside of the "holes" that housed the OEM TVs. Ditch the old TVs and go with the Smart TVs. They are cheap enough and are so much better. Lots of times, the old TVs, microwaves, and other devices are screwed down from the bottom meaning remove what is below the unit and you will see the screws going through the shelf the unit is mounted to. Remove the usually 4-screws and it comes right out. Best!

Bennett
 
Thanks gentlemen
I’ll start replacing hopefully this weekend
Regards,
It appears that removal is relatively straight forward
 
The Vizio 26, reattaching the stock mounting board and a adjustable swivel mount worked great in the MST and rear cabin.
4 screws in front easily removed both stock TV’s.
Now, on to finding a tv that is close in size to the salo television.
FYI, the Glomex does bring in about 30 to 40 channels without any adjustment.
Everything additional can stream off of a phone pretty well.
Again
Thanks for the help.
 
Interesting.....so what smart TV can be "seamlessly" mounted to the main salon analog flip down TV? Wont there be a size/shape issue with a new smart TV?
 

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