Official Caterpillar3116/3126 Thread

I've brought this up before but have not yet gotten there...

The factory fuel valve allows for both engines and genset to be run off of one of the tanks.

For example, let's assume we want to source all fuel from the starboard tank

If I, we, someone could identify which fuel supply line flows from the starboard tank to fuel valves we simply cut that supply line somewhere and install this:

(see inserted pdf file)

substitute the primer bulb with a plain jane 12v electric fuel pump with a simple prefilter to protect it.

This arrangement in concert with the factory fuel valves would fill the Raycors AND the engine mounted fuel filters.

We could install all fuel filters DRY.

close the ball valve, flip a switch and the fuel system(s) can be primed cleanly and easily and all air pushed out.

  • QUICK
  • EASY
  • CLEAN

NO MORE MESSY FILLING OF RAYCORS OR CANISTER FILTERS !

NO NEED TO POUR DIESEL FUEL ANYWHERE !

MAKES FUEL FILTER CHANGEOUTS A WHITE GLOVE JOB!

CAN BE DONE WTH LESS THAN $50 IN PARTS/MATERIALS

If someone can identify that starboard supply fuel line for me I'll gladly be the first one in the pool.

BEST !

RWS

P.S.

I had a similar system in my 10 Meter. Worked great. Instead of a toggle switch that could get "bumped" I used a simple, keyed off/on switch like this:

On/Off Switch Lock, Keyed Alike, Key Removable in Off Position.250 Terminal with 2 Keys & Nut; 30-1086-01: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
 

Attachments

  • Fuel_Priming_System.pdf
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I was able to chat wit the previous previous owner of my 380. I found parts on the boat in a plastic bag with his name on the bag, so I Googled his name and found him.

I have confirmed that at a minimum the after coolers have not been removed, cleaned and pressure tested since he purchased the boat with 700 hours on it in 2015. He used the boat where I purchased it, brackish water. Prior to that it was in Chicago in fresh water.

They have 1010 hours on them now.

The mechanic who will be doing other service for me plans to pull them, inspect them and clean them himself if they look ok. Otherwise he says they will need to go to a shop for cleaning.

Should I just go ahead and have them sent to a shop while they are off? If yes, he is not from the area so I will need to find a shop. What exactly is the service called and what kind of shop can do it?

Can he visually insect them and determine if they need to go to a shop for cleaning? The engines are running at 180 degrees and have no known cooling issues.

Thanks
 
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I was able to chat wit the previous previous owner of my 380. I found parts on the boat in a plastic bag with his name on the bag, so I Googled his name and found him.

I have confirmed that at a minimum the after coolers have not been removed, cleaned and pressure tested since he purchased the boat with 700 hours on it in 2015. He used the boat where I purchased it, brackish water. Prior to that it was in Chicago in fresh water.

The mechanic who will be doing other service for me plans to pull them, inspect them and clean them himself if they look ok. Otherwise he says they will need to go to a shop for cleaning.

Should I just go ahead and have them sent to a shop while they are off? If yes, he is not from the area so I will need to find a shop. What exactly is the service called and what kind of shop can do it?

Can he visually insect them and determine if they need to go to a shop for cleaning? The engines are running at 180 degrees and have no known cooling issues.

Thanks
Pressure testing is critical and normally a part of the cleaning and refurbishment.
 
Recently did mine.
One is easy squezy, one a job from hell. From their history, I think you will find yours in very good shape. Mine were in good shape but the gear coolers were way overdue.
They can be easily pressure tested on the engine, just two hoses on the coolant side at the aft end.
Mine were done by a great shop near Chestertown Md but there should be others closer to you.
PM me if you need more info.
 
I’d opt to get them cleaned. The pressure test is critical to avoid catastrophic failure but the cleaning for me was more about getting the air side free from years of built up oil on the fins than it was for the water side.
 
I think getting them professionally cleaned and pressure tested while they're off makes sense based on everyone's comments and my research. I'm thinking I can drop them off while the mechanics doing the other service and pick them up for him as well to reinstall them. Hopefully this is something a shop can turn around in 24 to 48 hours if scheduled ahead of time.

Can any radiator shop do this work, or is this something Marine specific? How long does it normally take a shop to do this so I can plan around that?

I'm reading and seeing videos where they do "ultrasonic" cleaning, is that what I'm asking for when I call a radiator shop?
 
I think getting them professionally cleaned and pressure tested while they're off makes sense based on everyone's comments and my research. I'm thinking I can drop them off while the mechanics doing the other service and pick them up for him as well to reinstall them. Hopefully this is something a shop can turn around in 24 to 48 hours if scheduled ahead of time.

Can any radiator shop do this work, or is this something Marine specific? How long does it normally take a shop to do this so I can plan around that?

I'm reading and seeing videos where they do "ultrasonic" cleaning, is that what I'm asking for when I call a radiator shop?

local radiator shop recommended by Milton CAT did ours. They were familiar with the marine version but the process should be similar regardless, just filled with water vs coolant.

he had them both done in 24 hours. Just add an extra day to get a couple coats of paint back on and they’re good to go. Ours were boiled but ultrasonic would be great if it’s available I’d think
 
I realized today I’m sitting on 3/4 tanks of nearly 10 month old fuel. I treat it using Franks maintenance schedule, but it did sit all winter on the hard.

engines run fine and the racors are clean but I’ve noticed just a slight increase in cold startup smoke and a bit of soot on the relief exhausts. Might be unrelated but since we haven’t run the boat much yet this year I’m thinking an extra dose of diesel kleen to boost cetane and go fill the tanks up with fresh ($7/gal) fuel. I don’t think you can overtreat with the stuff, but I’m not positive.

what do you guys think?
 
I'm still new to diesel, but based on my research here and online I think that sounds like a good plan. You could also run the tanks to a quarter or 8th and then fill them up to get rid of all the possible bad fuel before you put new fuel in. Of course you're running the risk of clogging up the injectors if you do that.
 
I'm still new to diesel, but based on my research here and online I think that sounds like a good plan. You could also run the tanks to a quarter or 8th and then fill them up to get rid of all the possible bad fuel before you put new fuel in. Of course you're running the risk of clogging up the injectors if you do that.

yeah, and $2k in fuel! lol

with our reduced runtime this season (new baby and such) I’m probably going to only maintain 1/2 tanks until the end of the season fill up that way I’m turning it over quickly. The local diesel station goes through a lot so it’s typically fresh coming out of the pump
 
yeah, and $2k in fuel! lol

with our reduced runtime this season (new baby and such) I’m probably going to only maintain 1/2 tanks until the end of the season fill up that way I’m turning it over quickly. The local diesel station goes through a lot so it’s typically fresh coming out of the pump
I'd recommend keeping the tanks full. The more ullage in the tanks the more they breathe and the more condensate forms in the tank. Your chances of getting an algae problem increases.
 
I realized today I’m sitting on 3/4 tanks of nearly 10 month old fuel. I treat it using Franks maintenance schedule, but it did sit all winter on the hard.

engines run fine and the racors are clean but I’ve noticed just a slight increase in cold startup smoke and a bit of soot on the relief exhausts. Might be unrelated but since we haven’t run the boat much yet this year I’m thinking an extra dose of diesel kleen to boost cetane and go fill the tanks up with fresh ($7/gal) fuel. I don’t think you can overtreat with the stuff, but I’m not positive.

what do you guys think?
Frank has told me that you cannot over treat the fuel.
 
I realized today I’m sitting on 3/4 tanks of nearly 10 month old fuel. I treat it using Franks maintenance schedule, but it did sit all winter on the hard.

engines run fine and the racors are clean but I’ve noticed just a slight increase in cold startup smoke and a bit of soot on the relief exhausts. Might be unrelated but since we haven’t run the boat much yet this year I’m thinking an extra dose of diesel kleen to boost cetane and go fill the tanks up with fresh ($7/gal) fuel. I don’t think you can overtreat with the stuff, but I’m not positive.

what do you guys think?

How about your air filters, when were they cleaned last?
 
How about your air filters, when were they cleaned last?

yeah they’re clean, last month. Boost is still great at all RPMs along with EGT’s, both engines have new turbos as of last year too. The run really well so I don’t suspect any major issue and the tiny bit of smoke cleans up after things warm up but it dawned on me the fuel was old-ish
 
I'd recommend keeping the tanks full. The more ullage in the tanks the more they breathe and the more condensate forms in the tank. Your chances of getting an algae problem increases.

I suppose just filling up more frequently has the same effect and minimizes the airspace in the tanks. Thanks!
 
Tom is exactly right. I would never plan to leave my tanks 1/2 full sinply because the tanks vent to atmosphere and that means the air space above your fuel is moisture laden and you will condense more moisture which substantially increases the likelyhood of algae and microbial growth in the tanks.

Here is an "old fuel" story for you: I was looking for a Case Backhoe about 10 years ago and found one owned by a local contractor. He said he handn't seen it ia about 5 years and it was parked at his daughter's new house. I made a deal with him pending the hoe starting and running. I drove out there and didn't see the Backhoe. I finally found it in a dirt pit, laying on its side, with all the glass broken out of the cab where the daughters husband left it when he ran it in the pit. Several log chains and a friend's wrecker and we had it turned wheel side down again. A fresh battery and draining the sediment bowls on the fuel filters and it fired right up in about 3 revolutions with the fresh battery. I built a ramp out of the end of the dirt pit with the backhoe, drove it out then drove it 5 miles to my house. I topped it off with fresh fuel from my tank at home, changed the fuel filters then ran it several years and never once considered draining the old fuel. It did smoke some and the exhaust smell would give you a headache.

Diesel Kleen won't hurt anything but I would also add a biocide just in case you have some growth in the tanks.
 
Tom is exactly right. I would never plan to leave my tanks 1/2 full sinply because the tanks vent to atmosphere and that means the air space above your fuel is moisture laden and you will condense more moisture which substantially increases the likelyhood of algae and microbial growth in the tanks.

Here is an "old fuel" story for you: I was looking for a Case Backhoe about 10 years ago and found one owned by a local contractor. He said he handn't seen it ia about 5 years and it was parked at his daughter's new house. I made a deal with him pending the hoe starting and running. I drove out there and didn't see the Backhoe. I finally found it in a dirt pit, laying on its side, with all the glass broken out of the cab where the daughters husband left it when he ran it in the pit. Several log chains and a friend's wrecker and we had it turned wheel side down again. A fresh battery and draining the sediment bowls on the fuel filters and it fired right up in about 3 revolutions with the fresh battery. I built a ramp out of the end of the dirt pit with the backhoe, drove it out then drove it 5 miles to my house. I topped it off with fresh fuel from my tank at home, changed the fuel filters then ran it several years and never once considered draining the old fuel. It did smoke some and the exhaust smell would give you a headache.

Diesel Kleen won't hurt anything but I would also add a biocide just in case you have some growth in the tanks.

thanks Frank. I gave both sides a shot of biobor and a bit of diesel kleen, we’ll top them up this weekend and I expect each side to take 50-60 gallons.

With life in the way this summer we might only burn a hundred gallons a month july-sept so I’ll just keep topping up and treating as normal
 
thanks Frank. I gave both sides a shot of biobor and a bit of diesel kleen, we’ll top them up this weekend and I expect each side to take 50-60 gallons.

As a general rule, you should add your Diesel Kleen, Biocide, and lubricity additives before adding fuel to the tanks. Estimate how much you will add based on hours run since your last fill up then treat that quantity of fuel. This way, even if life or Biden, gets in the way, everything in the tanks is properly treated.

Another factoid about fuel, is if you keep your tanks topped off then you likely spend less money than if you just add some fuel for ,say, Saturdays outing, plus if you follow the previous paragraph, all your fuel is properly treated, all the time.
 
As a general rule, you should add your Diesel Kleen, Biocide, and lubricity additives before adding fuel to the tanks. Estimate how much you will add based on hours run since your last fill up then treat that quantity of fuel. This way, even if life or Biden, gets in the way, everything in the tanks is properly treated.

Another factoid about fuel, is if you keep your tanks topped off then you likely spend less money than if you just add some fuel for ,say, Saturdays outing, plus if you follow the previous paragraph, all your fuel is properly treated, all the time.
Frank,
I usually fill at about 1/2 tanks which is between 75-85 plus gallons per side. I buy the 64 oz size of Diesel Kleen and now use one of them as "mix" container. Pour 1/2 from the new jug into the "mix" container, then add one bottle of lubricity additive and the 4 oz of the biocide to each container and "voila"... I have two premixed ready to go for about 100 plus gallons. Pour them in each side, then add the fuel with no delays at the fuel dock.
 

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