40 sedan bridge forum

my3sons said:
Sounds like that was a pita Scoop, but also sounds about right, at least for most of us. For next time, just think about the time it took to do the aftercooler removal method and consider you won’t be exhausted when you start it. Have a moving blanket or some kind of soft pad to put over the top of the rear outside motor mount so when you lay on it you don’t get a self performed appendectomy, and a stud to thread into the top hole of the mount to slide the pump over to hold it while you install the bottom bolt will help a lot when you bolt in those new SMX pumps. Good job!
Oh, and some paint to take care of the rust starting to build back there, as long as your back there.
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Thats the logic that keeps running through my head. “It will be easier next time”. So I have two years for the diet, too! Lol

We did have a pad on top, so that was good. But your stud idea is brilliant. That would have made a world of difference. There were some signs of water on the air holes on the pump, but I’ve never had water in the bilge there. So I don’t think the pump is ready to be replaced yet. But the SMX pumps are a consideration! I know Bill loves them. Are the impeller changes that much easier with them? And what happens with SBMar stuff when Tony goes off into the sunset? I plan on having my boat that long…
 
scooper321 said:
Are the impeller changes that much easier with them? And what happens with SBMar stuff when Tony goes off into the sunset? I plan on having my boat that long…
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yes, it’s that easy, at least in my opinion. Grease the impeller up with silicone paste, hold it up to the pump cavity and with a flat palm, twist while pushing. The splined shaft sits back in the pump far enough that the impeller vanes set and compress enough before the splines engage, allowing it to work that easy.
I don’t buy much from seaboard but I have thought about my pump parts and it is what it is if I have to go back to the Sherwood, but I’m betting that the young guys in Tony’s shop are hip to a succession plan, or least I’m hoping, although Tony may be younger than me, lol
 
Njlarry said:
Cwert and other CAT capts, what props are you turning? I only get 19 knts at 2400 rpm with 22x24. Wot at the dock is 3100 but only 2600 underway.
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hi Larry. I used to get only 19 knots at 2400. Then I had the bottom media blasted. Well worth it in my experience. After blasting, I barrier coated and painted. It’s like having a brand new hull. After that I got 20-21 knots at 2400. Then last year I had both props refurbished. Now I’m at 21-22 knots at 2400.
I have the same props. 22x24
 
Njlarry said:
Thanks John that's good to hear. We are definitely overdue for a bottom renew. What did pastand does your current wot look like?
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it used to be 2750. Now I’m just a tick over 2800. I forget what my speed is at WOT. 25-26 knots I think.
 
TotallyGross said:
I tried taking my couch out the last time Scooper and it didn't give me any more usable room.
I deal with the bruises on my chest and cuts all over my hands. I would have wrote a check in this instance but I likely wouldn't have gotten anyone there for 5 weeks approx. I am not that patient during the season...

matt
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Yea, pulled out the entire couch assy and electric motor assy. only to realize it gave me about 1" more play. Couple wrenches thrown that time. When it comes to water pump on that side a check gets written.
 
JASON P GRIFFITH said:
Yea, pulled out the entire couch assy and electric motor assy. only to realize it gave me about 1" more play. Couple wrenches thrown that time. When it comes to water pump on that side a check gets written.
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That’s interesting. We took off the lower cushion and the metal frame, and it gave us enough room to get in there. Noticeably more than we had before. I didn’t measure it so I don’t know how many inches extra, but I know we did not fit in to get access to the impeller without doing so. The good thing is, it takes about two minutes to remove that lower trim piece, the sofa pad and the metal frame. It’s a total of maybe 13 screws? Not a hard job at all. Highly recommend it for any work being done on the port engine. If only the rest of the job had been so easy!

I’m on day three of my increased-exercise, eating-properly regimen. 727 days to go until I have to change that impeller again. But who’s counting?
 
Gregl said:
Hi, anyone with a Vetus bow thruster know if there is a breaker or switch anywhere? Where are all the fuses? I’m not getting power. Thanks,Greg
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There is a breaker/fuse mounted on the port side stringer next to the two thruster batteries between the engines. I’m not near the boat this week and don’t have a good file picture.
 
Greg, I found one from when I installed the silicone exhaust a few years ago that partially shows them. Good luck
55BD1A07-38A9-446C-B89F-D9CE5F35BE5A.jpeg
 
Gregl said:
Thanks, I will take a look there. I think it may be a solenoid issue at the motor. Greg
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The relay that sends the power forward when I turn on the thruster is mounted on the forward engine room bulkhead near my Sea Fire bottle. There are two blade fuses on that.
F235CDDD-4CA9-43C7-B8BB-81CC53BFC13E.jpeg
 
Here’s a better picture of the fuses in my first post. 500 amp for the main cable and the 25 amp breaker from The the 24v charger.
70749423-FA70-4381-9713-7CE68F6F2006.jpeg
 
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My salon AC is struggling and I think it is time to replace before it dies.
Any suggestions on which unit works best to replace the cruisair that is original to the boat?
 
Gregl said:
Hi, has anyone tried venting the fly bridge when the canvas is up. It gets crazy hot up there. I leave the hatch open to help. Any thoughts? Thanks, Greg
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Not sure I saw an answer to you, Greg. Our canvas is ALWAYS on. We put it on in March and take it off in December. When I ride, I prefer to have at least some windows open - and definitely the one in front of the helm, if it's not too chilly! As it gets warmer, we open up all the windows. We get a nice breeze on the Chesapeake, regardless of the season, so that helps. If it's still too sticky, we run a small fan at the helm, just to keep more air moving. That's especially helpful in a no wake zone. Other than that, we have no other secrets. We do also like to run with the hatch open, but it makes our dogs (and therefore us) less anxious if we close the hatch...
 
Pierpressure1 said:
My salon AC is struggling and I think it is time to replace before it dies.
Any suggestions on which unit works best to replace the cruisair that is original to the boat?
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I put the Dometic Turbo in mine. It was easy to install and reuse the existing SMXii controller. I don’t like the design with the cooling coils blocking filter screen access. I’ve since put a couple CitiMarine CTM-16 units in friends boat. Possible a better value because it’s quite a bit less expensive, but hard to tell as longevity of these marine self contained units seems to be a fading feature.
 
scooper321 said:
Not sure I saw an answer to you, Greg. Our canvas is ALWAYS on. We put it on in March and take it off in December. When I ride, I prefer to have at least some windows open - and definitely the one in front of the helm, if it's not too chilly! As it gets warmer, we open up all the windows. We get a nice breeze on the Chesapeake, regardless of the season, so that helps. If it's still too sticky, we run a small fan at the helm, just to keep more air moving. That's especially helpful in a no wake zone. Other than that, we have no other secrets. We do also like to run with the hatch open, but it makes our dogs (and therefore us) less anxious if we close the hatch...
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Steve, how are you? I was talking about when we are at the pier and everything is closed up when we are not there. I was thinking about putting in an in line fan
with a dryer type exhaust hose and unzip one of my isinglass windows to exhaust the hot air on the fly bridge. It gets to be around 130-140 degrees up there. It would only be there when we would be off the boat. Greg
 
Gregl said:
Hi, anyone with a Vetus bow thruster know if there is a breaker or switch anywhere? Where are all the fuses? I’m not getting power. Thanks,Greg
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I have a Vetus bow thruster, I think it's an aftermarket install so different installers would do it different ways. it may depend on whether you have separate battery for the thruster or not. I don't. There's these very fat cables that run from the battery bank to the forward bunk. In that circuit I have a heavyweight isolation switch in the ER just forward of the batteries port side. I don't think that switch is sophisticated such that it's also a breaker, but one might guess that any separate breaker will be near the switch if you have one

The installations in the pics provided by other members look older than mine, original at factory methinks
 
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Pgeee said:
I have a Vetus bow thruster, I think it's an aftermarket install so different installers would do it different ways. it may depend on whether you have separate battery for the thruster or not. I don't. There's these very fat cables that run from the battery bank to the forward bunk. In that circuit I have a heavyweight isolation switch in the ER just forward of the batteries port side. I don't think that switch is sophisticated such that it's also a breaker, but one might guess that any separate breaker will be near the switch if you have one

The installations in the pics provided by other members look older than mine, original at factory methinks
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Thanks everyone, I am still troubleshooting. Greg
 
ZZ13 said:
I put the Dometic Turbo in mine. It was easy to install and reuse the existing SMXii controller. I don’t like the design with the cooling coils blocking filter screen access. I’ve since put a couple CitiMarine CTM-16 units in friends boat. Possible a better value because it’s quite a bit less expensive, but hard to tell as longevity of these marine self contained units seems to be a fading feature.
Click to expand...
I was looking at the Citimarine units as well. It can be used with existing controller and as you mentioned the price is attractive.
 
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