Saving $ on oil/spark plug change

jmcdboater

jmcdboater

Well-Known Member
May 28, 2022
574
Stockton, CA
Boat Info
1988 300 DA Sundancer
Vessel JIM’N’I IV
Engines
Twin 5.7L Mercs w/Alpha One Drives
Koehler KVA 4 Genset
My wife and I just bought our 1988 300 Sundancer. Twin 5.7 350 Mercs. We are retired (read:fixed income). Vessel just back into water after having outdrives (Bravo I) serviced, raw water impellers and shift cables replaced, one badly corroded bell housing replaced, two bellows replaced, and all anodes replaced. Whew! $$$$ So I ask the mechanic how much for an oil change/plug change, he says $700-$800. Soooooo, after my wife cleans up the water she threw on my face after I passed out, I decide I can do that myself and probably save $600. I’ve done lots of engine works in the past on cars, and changed a lot of oil, on cars.
How hard will this be? Best way to get old oil out of drip pans? Plugs are pretty self-explanatory, right? I know to bring my swivel pieces and extensions for my ratchet. Any and all suggestions will be greatly appreciated!
 
Not sure what you mean by drip pans. The normal method is a hand pump with a tube that goes down dip stick tube, pump into laundry bottles. Cannot explain the whole method here, go to local marine store, they will hook you up.
Run engines first. Trying to suck out cold oil is a bitch.
upload_2022-6-5_11-2-28.jpeg
 
Oil change is easy. I would never pay for that at the rates they charge. Get youself a quality oil change pump to suck out of the dip stick (or some engines have a seperate tube for this purpose). Warm up the engines and suck out as much as you can. Change the filters. Fill with oil, start up and check for leaks and such.

Spark plugs are a bit more "difficult" if only becuase they can be harder to get to. Some people take off the manifolds for access. But other than that, it's just like a car.
 
If your dipstick tube has threads on the outside, I've had the best luck with the kind of pump that threads onto the dipstick tube and sucks out the oil -- rather than the kind with a thin tube that fits down inside the dipstick tube. Once the engine is warm, running the drill pump can suck up the old oil right into an empty 5-qt jug.

Your cost would be filter plus 5qts of oil.

This is the one I have and it does it both ways.

https://www.wholesalemarine.com/jabsco-marine-oil-change-drill-pump-kit/

ITT-17215-0000_lg__04137.1558116602.jpg
 
For the above, forgot to mention I have a short length of garden hose that threads to the pump and threads to the dipstick. Once I'm all set up with my 5-qt jug and the engine is warm, let er rip with the cordless drill and the sump is empty in no time!
 
Welcome to the DIY craziness.

Like said above oil changes are simple and unless the mechanic is already doing something and you can just add it on ...... DIY'ing is the way to go.

I'm currently using the vacuum pump from northern tool to get the oil out of my 5.0's but after seeing the above battery operated drill method I might have to reconsider my choice after seeing if I can hook up directly to the dipstick tube.

https://www.northerntool.com/images/product/2000x2000/332/33226_2000x2000.jpg

On plugs I can't really give insight. I had the marina do those a year ago when they were replacing one of my engines. I just asked to have the one remaining engine to be gone through while the other was removed. Access was to their benefit plus the boat was on a trailer in their shop. So it added an additional $600 (plugs, wires, distributor and cap) to the already mounting repair bill of 12K. But when the boat hit the water I was ready to go w/o having to do any DIY's.
 
They're "just" Chebby 350's. Old-school stuff. 5/8" spark plug socket. As others have mentioned, getting to them is the worst part!
 
“Spark plugs are a bit more "difficult" if only becuase they can be harder to get to. Some people take off the manifolds for access. But other than that, it's just like a car.”

If I remove manifolds I’ll need new gaskets, or are they re-usable? I’m not really intimidated by doing the work, I used to do that all the time on cars, just never tried it on a boat, want to be as prepared as possible to cut down on skinned knuckles and cursing (and time).

APPRECIATE very much all the responses and suggestions, need to save a little $.
 
jmcdboater said:
"want to be as prepared as possible to cut down on skinned knuckles and cursing"
Click to expand...

Good luck with that one.

BTW there's always that one dam hose clamp in the wrong place and time that lacerates the heck out of a hand or arm.

Giving up bit of DNA while DIY'ing is normal.....have some bandaids handy.

:p:D:p:D:p:D:p
 
So Phil S….. thanks for the link on the drill operated pump, looks like the way to go.
You said ‘works both ways’. I assume you mean it’ll still work if I don’t have threads on the outside of dipstick tube?

With my usual run of luck, I probable don’t have the threaded dipstick tube……
 
Phil S said:
For the above, forgot to mention I have a short length of garden hose that threads to the pump and threads to the dipstick. Once I'm all set up with my 5-qt jug and the engine is warm, let er rip with the cordless drill and the sump is empty in no time!
Click to expand...
Should I shut down the engines, first?
 
Golfman25 said:
Oil change is easy. I would never pay for that at the rates they charge. Get youself a quality oil change pump to suck out of the dip stick (or some engines have a seperate tube for this purpose). Warm up the engines and suck out as much as you can. Change the filters. Fill with oil, start up and check for leaks and such.

Spark plugs are a bit more "difficult" if only becuase they can be harder to get to. Some people take off the manifolds for access. But other than that, it's just like a car.
Click to expand...

will I need to replace gaskets each time, or are they re-usable?
 
FYI, the dipstick tube, itself, is 3/8" OD. Adapt whatever oil sucker you want to a 3/8" ID hose and you can slip the hose onto the dipstick and secure with a clamp. In other words... there's more than one way to skin a cat and they all work pretty much equally as well... however using the little hose that sticks down INTO the dipstick tube... that just takes longer because it's so narrow -- but it will still work, of course.
 
Mine, literally used one time 2 years ago, is for sale on craigslist, PM me if you'd like it.

To answer your question, pretty straightforward job, do it yourself. Then you can become a marine mechanic in your retirement and make some extra cash :)
PXL_20220531_232111682.jpg
 
jmcdboater said:
So Phil S….. thanks for the link on the drill operated pump, looks like the way to go.
You said ‘works both ways’. I assume you mean it’ll still work if I don’t have threads on the outside of dipstick tube?

With my usual run of luck, I probable don’t have the threaded dipstick tube……
Click to expand...
Most dipstick tubes do extend far enough in to the oil pan to even come close to getting most of the oil. I have rebuilt (1) Merc 454 and (2) Merc 350s (all outdrive applications) and they went so far as to only get past the windage tray. Additionally, some tubes are 2 pieces slip fit so they definitely are not vacuum tight.
 
Wanderer 290, thanks for your reply. So you’re saying you’d recommend putting the vacuum hose into the dipstick, to insure you’re getting deep into the sump…??.
 
jmcdboater said:
Wanderer 290, thanks for your reply. So you’re saying you’d recommend putting the vacuum hose into the dipstick, to insure you’re getting deep into the sump…??.
Click to expand...
I have had success with the hose inserted into the tube. Further, I actually drain the oil pan by removing the drain plug after vacuuming the oil via an electric pump and residual is usually around a quart.
When the engine is started to warm oil it does not take much heat. To hot and the hand pump is too hot to hold or if using an electric pump too hot and the pump impeller gets too soft. So “warm” is sufficient.
 
Last edited:
mrsrobinson said:
Mine, literally used one time 2 years ago, is for sale on craigslist, PM me if you'd like it.

To answer your question, pretty straightforward job, do it yourself. Then you can become a marine mechanic in your retirement and make some extra cash :)View attachment 128046
Click to expand...
And here’s to you, Mrs Robinson….. I haven’t figured out, yet, how to do a PM. Why did you only use yours once? I’m on west coast, shipping will probably be an issue.
 
jmcdboater said:
“Spark plugs are a bit more "difficult" if only becuase they can be harder to get to. Some people take off the manifolds for access. But other than that, it's just like a car.”

If I remove manifolds I’ll need new gaskets, or are they re-usable? I’m not really intimidated by doing the work, I used to do that all the time on cars, just never tried it on a boat, want to be as prepared as possible to cut down on skinned knuckles and cursing (and time).

APPRECIATE very much all the responses and suggestions, need to save a little $.
Click to expand...
It's a three knuckle job.

And no, I wouldn't remove the manifolds (gaskets probably not reusable), but some people have to. It all depends on your layout.
 
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