Kohler 5E Fuel issue- wont start

stelios hondrcolos

Active Member
Apr 11, 2021
175
Boat Info
300
Engines
350 Mag
Kohler 5E (2004-05 vintage – no LED readout)

2005 300DA
Ran fine last year. At winter layup I changed oil, filters (primary spin on - and in-line), Impeller, zinc.

Coolant and oil levels are good

Started right up this spring like a champ – ran for 15 seconds and died. Would not restart.

Disconnected fuel lines at carb and primary filter exit which were found to be bone dry

Fuel shut off solenoid and fuel pump tested and working

I primed the primary spin-on filter and the fuel line from the filter down to the in-line filter and fuel pump. (Filling the small fuel line was a mess. Is there a better way to do this?)

Engine ran for 15 seconds and died. Won’t restart. Lines again are dry.

What to do next?
 
It could be a clogged or rusted anti siphon valve at the fuel tank or bad fuel pump. To eliminate a fuel line problem take take a length of fuel line directly from the inlet to the fuel pump into 1 gal fuel can. If it runs for a while then you know it is from that point to the fuel tank where you need to look.
 
I had same issue when the small in-line Kohler filter was clogged.
 
Disconnect the safety sensors. Oil pressure, coolant temp, exhaust temp and raw water pressure if it has one and start the unit. If it starts there is a faulty sensor and it sounds like an oil pressure sensor right off the bat. No oil pressure interrupts the fuel pump.
If it still doest start may be an voltage regulator.
 
looks like in getting fuel to the carb now.
LED 2+3 are lit when cranking. but can't find in the service manual what that means.
not sure where all these safety sensors are
plugs are new. i changed them anyway
 
All sensors are automatically bypassed when the crank button is pushed. Or in other words, once the engine fires and the crank button is released the sensors become active and will go to ground if a fault is detected which will shut the engine down.
I have the led flow chart some where and will dig it out and forward the info to you.
 
Are you a fuel tanks filled on most boats the generator will not run unless you have 1/3 fuel Or more in the tanks where are your automatic choke can be bad and it’s not letting the engine start and run it’s common on those generators
 
All sensors are automatically bypassed when the crank button is pushed. Or in other words, once the engine fires and the crank button is released the sensors become active and will go to ground if a fault is detected which will shut the engine down.
I have the led flow chart some where and will dig it out and forward the info to you.
thanks.
so it should at least fire up before the sensors shut it down.
 
Are you a fuel tanks filled on most boats the generator will not run unless you have 1/3 fuel Or more in the tanks where are your automatic choke can be bad and it’s not letting the engine start and run it’s common on those generators
tanks are full
i'd like to know how to fix the choke
when i push it closed manually while cranking - still nothing
 
tanks are full
This is the link to the manual and section 6 outlines the led sequence.

https://www.moreman.spb.ru/upload_files/tp5986_eng_gzrw.pdf
Thansk Ive seen that.
LED 2+3 light up so those relays are energized. But it doesnt mean they are working or not.
Close the start/stop switch between N and 47 (local or remote). The K2 relay energizes and LED2 is illuminated. The normally-open K2 contacts close to energize the K3 relay (LED3 lights), fuel pump (FP), choke heater (CHTR), antidiesel solenoid (ADS), ignition (IGN), and hourmeter (HR).

If I follow the flow chart ( powerr - cranking - fuel pump ok ) I dead end with 'Troubleshoot the engine. Refer to the engine service manual'. Errrr... Yeah
 
I suspect a sensor given it is exactly 15 seconds and consistent. So disconnect all sensor and try….
If the sensors are not the problem it may be the voltage regulator.
Also do not start or shut down the generator with a load on it because it will toast the regulator.
 
I suspect a sensor given it is exactly 15 seconds and consistent. So disconnect all sensor and try….
If the sensors are not the problem it may be the voltage regulator.
Also do not start or shut down the generator with a load on it because it will toast the regulator.
but a sensor even now when it wont start at all?
 
So it doesn’t even run for 15 seconds?
If not use starting fluid ( safely)to verify a it is a no fuel condition.
correct.. it wont start now. I'll try a little starter fluid tomorrow
I opened the nut at the carb and fuel was being pumped. But after cranking when I pulled the plugs they did seem a little dry
The thing is in the Fall it was working perfectly. Then in the spring after tune up it worked for 30 seconds. It seems odd a component would fail over winter,, but who knows.
 
now it will start and run but only for 15-30 seconds. LED 4 will stay lighted before it shuts down. i understand that could mean low oil pressure, low coolant, or high temp all of which are not true.

when it runs it is only at low idle before it stalls.

i may as well replace sensors.
where is the best place to buy them - get part numbers?
 
Last edited:
now it will start and run but only for 15-30 seconds. LED 4 will stay lighted before it shuts down. i understand that could mean low oil pressure, low coolant, or high temp all of which are not true.

when it runs it is only at low idle before it stalls.

i may as well replace sensors.
where is the best place to buy them - get part numbers?
I bought parts at Jacks Small Engine but before you start throwing parts at it diagnose by disconnecting the sensors.

Plus it should not run at any speed other the preset governor speed so something is wrong…
 

Forum statistics

Threads
112,948
Messages
1,422,805
Members
60,930
Latest member
Ebrown69
Back
Top