Please help me identify these items are.....

First off - many thanks to those who have helped me so far. Did some more work to the boat today. While working on my "Ready boat for the season" list today I came across a few things that I'm not sure about. Can you all help me figure these out? Pictures included.

I haven't a clue on the first pix. The second pix of the "red cap" was found on the stbd side close to the holding tank. It has a little black plug that you can pull out of the red cap. The third pix is obvious concerning the "power and empty" indicators. What I'm wondering about is the "discharge pump and Head" buttons. I'm not sure what those are. Are they breakers, switches? what are they there for? What do they do? The fourth picture I'm thinking that has something to do with the pump out. I see a 3 way valve(?). What position should it be in? What's it used for? I did fill my fresh water tank today and initiated the toilet with #1. I turned the key to on and made sure the pump was turned on, on the helm. The vacuflush worked fine. It did not run continually. It shut off after 15 - 20 sec. So I think the duckbills are working okay. I did notice a smell outside the boat when I flushed though. Do I have the valve in the wrong position? I'm guessing I have it in the position it needs to be in for a pump out. Please advise. Thanks again everyone!

3rd pic is you head controls. The two “buttons” above are the fuses. Turning the key to on should power up the vacuflush system then you can flush the toilet with the pedal. The discharge setting on the key powers up the macerator pump which if the through hull fitting is open it will pump the sewage from the black water holding tank into the ocean. The “empty” light lets you know the holding tank is empty. There are other lights which show how full it is getting.

The fourth photo is the head Y valve I believe which selects whether the waste goes to the holding tank or over the side for the toilet. This should be secured with a zip tie in the position that sends everything to the holding tank unless you are nice and far offshore.

Sorry no idea what the 1st and 2nd photos depict.

Hoplite808 said:

3rd pic is you head controls. The two “buttons” above are the fuses. Turning the key to on should power up the vacuflush system then you can flush the toilet with the pedal. The discharge setting on the key powers up the macerator pump which if the through hull fitting is open it will pump the sewage from the black water holding tank into the ocean. The “empty” light lets you know the holding tank is empty. There are other lights which show how full it is getting.

The fourth photo is the head Y valve I believe which selects whether the waste goes to the holding tank or over the side for the toilet. This should be secured with a zip tie in the position that sends everything to the holding tank unless you are nice and far offshore.

Sorry no idea what the 1st and 2nd photos depict.

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Thanks Hoplite808! I did notice the "locking" tabs on that valve.

Just a word of warning. If that valve is not locked in the pump out position (overboard discharge is disabled), when in a no discharge area, tis a big fine if you get inspected.

CG says a tyrap cable tie is OK, or a small pad lock OK. And now an electronic lockout OK, as OEM manufacturers are installing them.

Bill Curtis said:

Just a word of warning. If that valve is not locked in the pump out position (overboard discharge is disabled), when in a no discharge area, tis a big fine if you get inspected.

CG says a tyrap cable tie is OK, or a small pad lock OK. And now an electronic lockout OK, as OEM manufacturers are installing them.

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Thanks Bill. Could you please show/tell me what position that is? What position does that valve/handle need to be in to be in the "pump out" position? I also know that there is a button under the wet bar that has something to do with the "overboard" discharge. Is that the electronic lockout?

Just turn the handle to align with the direction that you want the "stuff" to go. It "appears" from the picture, that the black w/green hose is for pump out. But you should be able to tell better than us.

This (y-valve) is something that a previous owner added (which is fine). But because of that, it might be difficult to answer some questions. For example, the button under the wet bar... it could be an inline, electrical lockout for the macerator as opposed to the lockout being on the seacock handle. BUT, you'll have to do some more investigative work - just follow the wires.

Lazy Daze said:

Just turn the handle to align with the direction that you want the "stuff" to go. It "appears" from the picture, that the black w/green hose is for pump out. But you should be able to tell better than us.

This (y-valve) is something that a previous owner added (which is fine). But because of that, it might be difficult to answer some questions. For example, the button under the wet bar... it could be an inline, electrical lockout for the macerator as opposed to the lockout being on the seacock handle. BUT, you'll have to do some more investigative work - just follow the wires.

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Lazy Daze - Thank you! I would agree with your assessment about the button under the wet bar. When I pushed it, it discharged some liquid - very small amount. I also heard a pump running which I believe that to be the macerator pump. I was not on the water at the time. Interesting observation about the Y valve. I do know for a fact that the boat originally delivered Texas. Could it be possible that it was installed from factory thinking that the boat was near the ocean and possible be able to discharge overboard off shore ?

The two "buttons" on the panel are indeed breakers.
I'm not seeing this "button under the wet bar"?

Wayward Sun said:

Lazy Daze - Thank you! I would agree with your assessment about the button under the wet bar. When I pushed it, it discharged some liquid - very small amount. I also heard a pump running which I believe that to be the macerator pump. I was not on the water at the time. Interesting observation about the Y valve. I do know for a fact that the boat originally delivered Texas. Could it be possible that it was installed from factory thinking that the boat was near the ocean and possible be able to discharge overboard off shore ?

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The factory option for overboard discharge would have used two separate dip tubes (ports) in the tank - one for pump out, one for overboard. It's not a problem that a Y-valve is used, though - that's a perfectly acceptable way of doing it as long as things were done properly - you just need to turn the handle is all. You may or may not have the second pickup port - it would be in the front, stbd corner of the tank, behind those white wires.

OK, so that button is not a lockout button... it sounds like it's the "activation" button. Which kinda makes sense - whoever wired this (unlikely to be a SR dealer, but again, that's not "inherently" a problem) probably didn't want to wire up to the key switch in the head. SO... depending on where you are using the boat, by law you need to close the seacock handle and either tie/secure it closed or just remove the handle. I don't like the idea of a push button for overboard discharge - too easy to accidentally touch it - or something stored under the sink to get jammed against it. If it was me, I would at least remove the fuse.

Speaking of those white wires hanging down... double check that those are not "house" wires. Meaning, make sure it is boat wiring - stranded copper as opposed solid copper that is used in a boat. This is another safety issue.

One small detail about the Y-valve... I'd much prefer it to mounted solid as opposed to hanging. As it is, there's a chance it could weaken the plastic elbows at the tank. I wouldn't go out of your way to move it now as the chances of that happening are small - just something to be aware of.

As long as we're having fun pointing things out -- See how the hose coming from your vac tank has it's (doubled up) clamps rotated 180* to each other? That makes a better seal since the area directly under the gear is kind of a "flat spot". Having the rubber tail ends helps to protect your hands and arms, too! This is also not imperative to change - it's just a "best practice" kind of thing.

The very first picture is a spacer to keep your bimini top off the support rod.

WV 320 Dancer said:

The very first picture is a spacer to keep your bimini top off the support rod.

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Thanks. I'm not sure how that works. When I get some of the other bigger items checked off the list I'll be able to focus on it a little more and I'm sure I can figure it out. Right now it just slides up and down the support rod.

Wayward Sun said:

Thanks. I'm not sure how that works. When I get some of the other bigger items checked off the list I'll be able to focus on it a little more and I'm sure I can figure it out. Right now it just slides up and down the support rod.

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Its for when the bimini is folded down. It acts as a bumper between the metal bimini rod and your boat

When I trailer the boat and launched last friday I had the bimini's in the position you see here in the picture. I have to go about 10 miles to the ramp from storage. Is it bad to have them in this position when towing? I've trailered many boats with the bimini in these this position with out any trouble for several miles, but I have been second guessing if this is okay with the Searay given the fact that the frame connects the the windshield frame. Would it be better to disconnect the shorter support pole on that front bimini and let it "flop" forward? Is that where the previously mention "bumper" comes into play? Thanks!

Better safe than sorry is my advice. I think you will be ok with a road trip that short though. Keep it (truck and trailer) under your normal boat cruise speed on the water and you should be ok.

Sicktght311 said:

Its for when the bimini is folded down. It acts as a bumper between the metal bimini rod and your boat

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These came with my boat as well, plastic though. I thought it was to keep the strataglass off of the chrome support pole.

Wayward Sun said:

When I trailer the boat and launched last friday I had the bimini's in the position you see here in the picture. I have to go about 10 miles to the ramp from storage. Is it bad to have them in this position when towing? I've trailered many boats with the bimini in these this position with out any trouble for several miles, but I have been second guessing if this is okay with the Searay given the fact that the frame connects the the windshield frame. Would it be better to disconnect the shorter support pole on that front bimini and let it "flop" forward? Is that where the previously mention "bumper" comes into play? Thanks!

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How fast does your boat go? It's designed to handle that...

Tim Fila said:

How fast does your boat go? It's designed to handle that...

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That's what I was thinking too, however my boat doesn't do 55 mph. I usually tow at 45. I'm thinking that it would be okay, but I do want to understand how this bumper thing works. I usually lean on the side of caution. If Murphy's Law is going to come into play, I'm usually at the cause of it