Official Caterpillar3116/3126 Thread

I've been doing essentially the same program as Frank recommends for about the last 12 years and immediately noticed the asphaltines in the bottom of the Raycors disappeared.

Never to be seen again :)

This stuff does work.

BEST !

RWS
 
Now that 2 diesel mechanics have ghosted me I will probably be tackling removing, sending off for cleaning/testing and reinstalling the after coolers myself. I cannot find anything on line on how to do this. I asked my brother-in-law what he could find a CAT, attached are the SISs he sent me. Are these for raw water aftercoolers, marine application? He said he used my serial #'s to find these.
 

Attachments

  • SIS 2.0 Aftercooler Install.pdf
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  • SIS 2.0 Aftercooler Remove.pdf
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  • SIS 2.0 Zincs.pdf
    153.1 KB · Views: 55
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mrsrobinson said:
Now that 2 diesel mechanics have ghosted me I will probably be tackling removing, sending off for cleaning/testing and reinstalling the after coolers myself. I cannot find anything on line on how to do this. I asked my brother-in-law what he could find a CAT, attached are the SISs he sent me. Are these for raw water aftercoolers, marine application? He said he used my serial #'s to located these.
Click to expand...

they’re close, the turbo inlet is in a different spot on yours but the procedure is the same. No coolant in the 3126 AC so nothing to drain. You will need to pull the zinc to get to the bolt heads anyway so anything left in there will drain out, although no water stays in mine once the engine is switched off

it really is just a matter of loosening the hose clamps, removing the fasteners, and lifting it off.

as mentioned earlier be sure to replace all the hoses and clamps while it’s out and you’ll need the intake gasket
 
Can anyone tell me what hoses, and what clamps? Or is it a matter of removing the after cooler, remove the hoses off, buy some bulk hose, and cut them to size? With everything being on back order these days I'd like to have everything ready to go. Also does anyone know the part number for the gaskets?
 
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mrsrobinson said:
Can anyone tell me what hoses, and what clamps? Or is it a matter of removing the after cooler off, remove the hoses off, buy some hose, and cut them to size? With everything being on back order these days I'd like to have everything ready to go. Also does anyone know the part number for the gaskets?
Click to expand...

i can get them in a bit. The raw water hoses come in bulk but the turbo to AC hose is a stock length
 
Much more to it than the cat instructions list.
See my post in the diesel section "aftercooler headache".
Not difficult if you have access. You may need to drain coolant to get access to some bolts. The cooler uses 8 mm 12 points, 6 pt or torx will not work. Order two gaskets as the identical gasket between the heater core and block should also be replaced. Two 8 mm x 80 mm 1.25 pitch screws with heads cut off make great guides for reassembly. Also place the gaskets with the cat part numbers in the upper right corner facing you to align properly.
Big question is use of RTV sealant. No one can find the cat spec but all seem to feel it should be used. Mine ran fine without it so not sure how critical. Given the air flow path, I dont see the two far corners get much air flow, the turbo hose is in the middle.
Good luck. You can do it.
Edit..the fresh water coolant hose I had to drain and remove came from the coolant tank and blocked the lower right hand corner 8 mm bolt.
 
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mrsrobinson said:
Can anyone tell me what hoses, and what clamps? Or is it a matter of removing the after cooler, remove the hoses off, buy some bulk hose, and cut them to size? With everything being on back order these days I'd like to have everything ready to go. Also does anyone know the part number for the gaskets?
Click to expand...
Sorry, my binders on the boat and I thought I had printed copies. It’s tough to figure out which order covered what you need looking back through my order history

have you tried using SIS with your SN? It’s quirky but 2.0 is better and once you find the sub assembly diagram it’s pretty good for picking parts
 
I took my serial numbers to the Cat parts desk in Nashville and just ordered all the hoses and clamps required to replace the after coolers. Replace all of them when you service the aftercoolers. If you ever need to replace a hose under an aftercooler in aftercooler never-never land, it is a 6 Advil 10 band aid job.

My engines were 1996 and I figured "This is Caterpillar. so they have changed. the hoses specs since the engines were built." I was right and glad I went this route because several hoses were now high quality silicone hoses instead of common radiator hoses and most of the hose clamps were better quality as well.

The other reason is that I knew Cat would supply the correct lengths. I tend to over-do things like hoses and clamps and i would buy longer hoses than needed. I keep a boat a long time and storage of my spares, extras and left-overs gets to be a problem.
 
Makes sense to me @fwebster. In my mind these are "marine" engines and the aftercoolers are different than "non marine" engines so they may sell me the wrong parts. So they know by serial # this is a "marine" engine?

I did go to CAT for my thermostats, belts, engine mounted fuel/oil filters and the fuel primer pump, giving them the engine serial numbers. They were having a difficult time finding the belts, I told him this was for a marine application, he seemed surprised.
 
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Measure. Most all the straight hoses are no longer available but are sold by the cm. My CAT dealer could not find the exact lenghts so I over estimated and cut down at the boat.
 
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I am fortunate to have MILEY CAT a marine dealer within a reasonable distance.

Hoses, clamps. belts, filters, spares. . . . everything from CAT.

Even the new transmission coolers (I was really worried about those 26 year old ticking time bombs)

I dropped off my heat exchanger & fuel coolers down there last week for service and picked up the balance of my order.

everything goes back on after I paint the engines and install the new hot water heater.

Then Miley's CAT will handle the aftercooler servicing, set the timing and injector settings.

These items deemed above my skill level.

I am scared that i'd get it wrong and end up with salt water in the intake.

As Clint Eastwood once said: " A MAN NEEDS TO KNOW HIS LIMITATIONS"

BEST !

RWS
 
As expected, I called the local Carter Machinery CAT dealer/service/parts. Told the guy I need after cooler gasket, hoses and clamps for my "marine" 3126s, gave him the serial #'s, and he immediately said "I am not familiar with marine...what is it you are trying to do?" I said "Remove, clean, test, reinstall after coolers, I need the gaskets to reinstall them"... "Hmmmm, I don't know, we just do heavy equipment..."

Is there a better marine CAT parts place to call?
 
So Carter machinery sent me this, and said to let them know what hoses/clamps I need.
 

Attachments

  • 3126 After Cooler parts.pdf
    306.4 KB · Views: 92
Maybe A Dancer said:
View attachment 126426 View attachment 126427

I am fortunate to have MILEY CAT a marine dealer within a reasonable distance.

Hoses, clamps. belts, filters, spares. . . . everything from CAT.

Even the new transmission coolers (I was really worried about those 26 year old ticking time bombs)

I dropped off my heat exchanger & fuel coolers down there last week for service and picked up the balance of my order.

everything goes back on after I paint the engines and install the new hot water heater.

Then Miley's CAT will handle the aftercooler servicing, set the timing and injector settings.

These items deemed above my skill level.

I am scared that i'd get it wrong and end up with salt water in the intake.

As Clint Eastwood once said: " A MAN NEEDS TO KNOW HIS LIMITATIONS"

BEST !

RWS
Click to expand...
KaChing
You are doing the baselining right!
You'll have a couple of worry free Cats.
BTW - there is no way to get water into the intakes unless the aftercooler has failed. You'll have to work hard to put it together wrong.
Didn't you have a problem with a corroded freeze plug on one of the turbos? How did all of that come out?

Oh yea - make sure you keep onboard at least two spare raw water impellers - for some reason those Sherwood pumps on the 3116 and 3126 destroy impellers. I not only carried a couple of spare kits but changed the impellers every oil change.
 
Just a side note:

The starboard motor had a salt water drip at the dripless shaft seal and one at a hose on the outboard side above the bellhousing.

These drips/sprays of saltwater created some rust.

I have used a die grinder, pressure washer and POR-15 rust preventer to eliminate this and any other rust found.

Decided to replace the 26 year old water heater as well. With the heat exchangers out removal of the water heater was a snap, just remove the exhaust hoses.

The point of this post for others is that there is TREMENDOUS ACCESSABILITY with the exhaust hoses and water heater removed.

This is a great opportunity to catch up on all the deferred maintenance, hoses and everything, the goal being to make her as reliable and dependable as possible.

Much as I love the Glendenning cable winder, it makes access to the port side of the port motor difficult. Perhaps someone has come up with an accessibility solution to this. Maybe a quick way to slide that tub around?

Will post some progression photos when done.

BEST !

RWS
 
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