Sterndrive Installation - Startup after years of storage

M

Mr_Stop

New Member
Oct 25, 2021
25
Cincinnati, OH
Boat Info
1985 Sundancer 250
Engines
5.7L 260 HP Mercruiser
I'm going to try and get an inherited 1985 Sundancer 250 started for the first time in probably 7 years. It has a rebuilt 5.7 L Mercuiser and I'm guessing an Alpha 1 drive. It's located about 3 1/2 hours away, so trying to figure out what tools and supplies I need to bring. I'm familiar with working on cars, but my boat experience is nil.

The sterndrive was removed so I need to reinstall it first. Before my father passed, hesaid the old one was bad and the new one was good (but who knows?) What maintenance/checks should I perform before reinstalling and after? What tools/supplies do I need to reinstall?

For starting the motor the first time, any tips? I'll probably change the oil and drain the gas. Any info on how to do that with these boats (I don't even know where the tank is LOL)? Anything else I should do or check before cranking it?

Are there any operating manuals for these boats?
 
You may want to check the gimble boot for any cracks, they should be replaced every two to five years. After 7 they may be dried out and crack. Also the water pump impeller may have dried out or taken a set from sitting so long. May want to have a kit on hand or replace. These are maintenance items.

Before you crank with the starter. Pull the plugs, squirt in a little engine oil. I would turn the engine over by hand (socket and bar on crank pulley) at least two full revolutions to be sure none of the valves are stuck. Any resistance beyond stop and investigate.
 
I'm not sure which stern drive I have. Are those parts universal, or are they specific? How do I ID the sterndrive?
 
If you have cell service at the boat, you should be able to get the s/n off of the drive and do a parts look up with it. It will quickly identify the model. It is possible ratios in the second drive may be different. You can quickly check that by marking the prop shaft and checking how far you need to turn the (input) drive shaft to make one full turn. The original drive was likely an Alpha 1 with a 1.5:1 ratio (reduction) with a 350.
If you find the crankshaft hard to turn, I would apply pressure to the belt and use the nut on the alternator. It will give you a slight reduction and avoid twisting off a crankshaft screw.
 
Last edited:
Thornton69 said:
If you have cell service at the boat, you should be able to get the s/n off of the drive and do a parts look up with it. It will quickly identify the model. It is possible ratios in the second drive may be different. You can quickly check that by marking the prop shaft and checking how far you need to turn the (input) drive shaft to make one full turn. The original drive was likely an Alpha 1 with a 1.5:1 ratio (reduction) with a 350.
If you find the crankshaft hard to turn, I would apply pressure to the belt and use the nut on the alternator. It will give you a slight reduction and avoid twisting off a crankshaft screw.
Click to expand...
Geometry and physics baby! love it.
 
Are you bringing the boat home via 3 hrs on the water, or is the boat simply 3 hrs away, and thats where its staying / being used?

Asking because a 3hr semi-maiden voyage home over the water calls for slightly different prep/eval work given the boats been sitting.
 
The boat is located 3 hours away. I be working on it there until I can trailer it home (another issue that needs addressed).
 
Mr_Stop said:
Outside unfortunately.
Click to expand...

With that I'd suggest you focus on getting the trailer road worthy before starting on the boat. Get that thing home where it's more accessible and manageable.

Here's how a typical boat project goes (in my experience):
  • Set aside entire Saturday to fix/repair/replace X
  • Arrive at boat
  • Begin working on X replacement
  • Identify two required tools you forgot to bring and/or do not own, continue working at half expect pace due to tools being wrong
  • One to two hours into project you identify three new parts you need but don't have
  • Crawl out of the boat, drive to West Marine
  • West Marine doesn't have the part but can order it
  • Jump on Amazon, prime gets it done faster, order placed for Tuesday delivery
  • The entire day is now shot, you head back home after having effectively worked on the boat for 2 hours
:)
 
I know how that goes all too well! At this point, just trying to see if the boat is worth investing in. If I can get the motor started, the canvas is there and in good shape, and the hull is still seaworthy, I'll invest in fixing it replacing the trailer. Then I can get it home and through all the picky stuff.
 
Stee6043 said:
With that I'd suggest you focus on getting the trailer road worthy before starting on the boat. Get that thing home where it's more accessible and manageable.

Here's how a typical boat project goes (in my experience):
  • Set aside entire Saturday to fix/repair/replace X
  • Arrive at boat
  • Begin working on X replacement
  • Identify two required tools you forgot to bring and/or do not own, continue working at half expect pace due to tools being wrong
  • One to two hours into project you identify three new parts you need but don't have
  • Crawl out of the boat, drive to West Marine
  • West Marine doesn't have the part but can order it
  • Jump on Amazon, prime gets it done faster, order placed for Tuesday delivery
  • The entire day is now shot, you head back home after having effectively worked on the boat for 2 hours
:)
Click to expand...
MR Stop,
Stee is dead on, you will never remember all the tools/parts you need.
Get the boat home first. I am 8 miles from marina and often make 3 trips a day back and forth for tools.
You just can’t fix a boat that far away.
Just did it yesterday, that 3/8 socket I am certain was in the toolbox wasn’t.
 
I get it, I have a large tool chest full at home of specialty tools I have purchased over the years. I'm just going to get the engine to fire up, or at least turn over. The trailer is likely toast and I need to make sure the boat isn't scrap also before investing in getting the boat home.

Is a 1985 Sundancer all SAE, metic or a combination?
 
I really do wish you well with the project. Even if you throw say $5k into cockpit, engine, upholstery, talking each, for $15k you’ll have a nice boat, unless the rats ate the inside. No pics there yet.
If you put 12k into making it 90% perfect, you can probably enjoy for a few years and break even, anymore is iffy.
 
The advice to get this boat in your driveway before doing anything to it is very sensible. If the trailer needs work get it off the trailer and have it towed home and blocked up. You can limp home with the empty trailer, if you have to.

Change the drive lube and check the old oil for water (milky). I would get a pressure test done on the drive before mounting it. Definitely install a new impeller. Check the shift cable for smooth operation.

The prior advice on the engine prep is generally good.
Pull the plugs and spray in fogging lube before attempting to turn the engine over. With the plugs out, turning it over by hand is do-able. Change ALL fluids (100% fresh gas) and filters. Check every belt and hose. Ground the plugs. With a fresh battery, turn it over a few times to spread the oil. Spray more in. Turn it over again. Now put the plugs back and see if it will fire-up. The impeller is in the Alpha leg so no damage will be done. A minute or two is enough with no coolant. There is no point in putting the leg on until you know that the engine is good.

I would replace the bellows and the raw water hose. Grease all bearings and splines. Get a new gasket set and use high-tack sealant. Ensure the shift cable is engaged. Alphas should have the shift lever forward. Bolt it up.

With the leg straight and down, put the blower and the muffs on, get the water flowing well and start it up. Have the arrestor on and an extinguisher handy. Idle only - maybe up to 1200 rpm max. Check oil pressure and after a few minutes, the water temperature. Check for leaks at the engine and into the bilge.

Check all through hull fittings, hoses and the garboard plug. If everything checks out, you could now consider a sea trial.
 
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