410 Sundancer/Express Cruiser and 400 Sundancer/Express Cruiser **Official Thread**

And then the fight started...

y4mklmjTBwhka0CY3xVTFc1XK1f91qWLVaeaQVCuzdtCm1iWH60-QHxiz9SpnPsuq2nY6SpsJLiyWIonml7JW11bCr5Qb7beYolvVYW94zztsAJn-RF-v83tSMRXgzMUYjypEbO6mI9FKRbv2MEpTEUUlvL3x0vz9H8MON04tu1nznlfecQA_x_GDcdvqB-VO7ndXq4Abzvgk56UWrdwbIQiCs8hgHll6qMaY2Fwa83VXU
Am I missing something obvious?
 
If this has already been addressed please direct me to the post, I was not able to find anything.
The tracks for the sliding entry door to my cabin on the 410 Sundancer are broken and worn. I found the tracks online. Has anyone posted a guide on how to remove the door and replace the tracks? It looks like you might remove the vinyl door trim and ceiling panels to gain access but I dont see any screws and do not want to start pulling without having a clue. Any guidance is appreciated.
I did exactly this last winter. You have to remove the panel on the top of the dash to access the tracks. I dug the colored caulk out first then used a windshield removing tool, basically small braided cable to cut through the caulk it was bedded in. It wasn't all that easy to get free. The tracks were screwed in along the middle of their length, probably 6 per side. Push the door in and you should see an 1 or 2. I would recommend doing the rollers as well since you already have it apart. They tend to stop turning and get flat spots.
 
Yep



Which goes first.. Big or little....
Yes I saw that. Thought that was too obvious. We have had that discussion several times. New England is slow to catch on to that. Take a walk around the the local boat yards here. Thought there was something else.
 
On my 1998 the speakers are mounted in that vinyl piece. Speaker has to be removed and there are studs with nuts inside, 2 if I recall correctly. Tight fit, need a skinny arm.

Thanks for the info. Now I'm going through my phone looking for pictures of my arch. I'm pretty sure my speakers are above my panels. Maybe I'm in between both of you since I'm a 99'. I think I'll pull my speakers above the panel and reach inside to see if I have studs or Christmas trees. I definitely have the skinny arms to reach inside :D:D:D. I can only curl 12oz. but I can do alot of reps:D:D:D.

Glad everything worked out Ryan....
 
If this has already been addressed please direct me to the post, I was not able to find anything.
The tracks for the sliding entry door to my cabin on the 410 Sundancer are broken and worn. I found the tracks online. Has anyone posted a guide on how to remove the door and replace the tracks? It looks like you might remove the vinyl door trim and ceiling panels to gain access but I dont see any screws and do not want to start pulling without having a clue. Any guidance is appreciated.
I cut the old tracks far back as I could, just getting under the dash panel. Put a screw in to hold in place and spliced in the new track, also held with screw at splice. Works fine after several years and is not noticeable.
Marty
 
Anyone know what the rail size is for the transom grab bar on the locker door? I went to put a flag holder, I’m guessing it’s 7/8”?
 
Can you post a picture? I replaced the rollers on my cabin door last year and it was a simple job, but I dont know whether the tracks in my 98 400 are the same as in your 410.

On my 400 you can see the screws in the tracks, pull the screws and the tracks come out easily to expose the wheels, which are what needed replacement.

This was one of the easiest and most satisfying repairs I've done on my boat. If your cabin slider is hinky at all, I recommend it.

Here is a picture of my door and tracks'
 

Attachments

  • IMG_2985.jpg
    IMG_2985.jpg
    32.5 KB · Views: 78
  • IMG_2984.jpg
    IMG_2984.jpg
    30 KB · Views: 72
  • IMG_2983.jpg
    IMG_2983.jpg
    36.3 KB · Views: 72
I cut the old tracks far back as I could, just getting under the dash panel. Put a screw in to hold in place and spliced in the new track, also held with screw at splice. Works fine after several years and is not noticeable.
Marty
Thank you. I like this idea vs removing that top hatch cover.
Scott
 
I did exactly this last winter. You have to remove the panel on the top of the dash to access the tracks. I dug the colored caulk out first then used a windshield removing tool, basically small braided cable to cut through the caulk it was bedded in. It wasn't all that easy to get free. The tracks were screwed in along the middle of their length, probably 6 per side. Push the door in and you should see an 1 or 2. I would recommend doing the rollers as well since you already have it apart. They tend to stop turning and get flat spots.
Thank you. Is caulking the only thing holding that top dash panel in? I was hoping I wouldn't have to remove that, I really suck with a caulking gun.
Scott
 
Well I was wrong. Speakers are in the panels. I had to remove 2 nuts from the studs and there was one Christmas tree fastener also....
20220507_170214.jpg
20220507_170221.jpg
 
I did exactly this last winter. You have to remove the panel on the top of the dash to access the tracks. I dug the colored caulk out first then used a windshield removing tool, basically small braided cable to cut through the caulk it was bedded in. It wasn't all that easy to get free. The tracks were screwed in along the middle of their length, probably 6 per side. Push the door in and you should see an 1 or 2. I would recommend doing the rollers as well since you already have it apart. They tend to stop turning and get flat spots.

What color caulk did you use on the panel?
 
I used the Boatlife Life Calk white. I only removed the panel so it would be easier and less mess caulking around the arch seam. I meant to take more pictures during the process but I forgot. I'm going back to the boat tomorrow and will take a few more to show the color.
Tomorrow's choirs are clean engine room and wash exterior. I have launch set up for Friday so I'm running out of time.
 
Whelp I made it in. We had a few hours of wicked wind yesterday so I took a pit stop in a protected slip that was not mine. It can never be easy!

Looking forward to summer. And also now having time to finish all of my projects on the inside of the boat...

52061209541_bd6380e7b2_h.jpg
 
Guys, help me out here. I replaced my forward AC with a MarineAire 12k btu unit and I can hang meat in the summer with my cabin door open. A dockmate has a 410 and is saying the biggest unit he can put in is a 7K btu? What should I recommend to him to put in, he really wanted the 12k btu with gauges like mine but is saying he only has about 15"'s of space in the compartment under the bed... Is that right?
 
Guys, help me out here. I replaced my forward AC with a MarineAire 12k btu unit and I can hang meat in the summer with my cabin door open. A dockmate has a 410 and is saying the biggest unit he can put in is a 7K btu? What should I recommend to him to put in, he really wanted the 12k btu with gauges like mine but is saying he only has about 15"'s of space in the compartment under the bed... Is that right?


I seem to think we're supposed to have 7k up front and 12k in the galley.

12k up front? I'd turn off my fridge and use the closets instead :)
 
I seem to think we're supposed to have 7k up front and 12k in the galley.

12k up front? I'd turn off my fridge and use the closets instead :)
Thanks! I just put in the same btu's that I took out and had the room, fairly easy project on my boat and has worked great for several seasons, but I hear you, I can cool it down quickly even in the summer.

I'll let him know that the 7K btu unit is good. Thank you!
 

Forum statistics

Threads
113,118
Messages
1,426,526
Members
61,035
Latest member
Lukerney
Back
Top