Bravo 3 remove oil monitor components and create closed lube system?

W

WayneP

Member
Aug 20, 2019
32
Boat Info
2003 245 Weekender
Engines
383 MAG MPI
Hello All:
Have a Bravo 3 with leaking/broken through hull oil monitor fitting. Almost impossible to change it. Broken off hose barb! Or any good ideas to fix it?
Can I seal the oil monitor lines and create a closed oil system on a Bravo 3? Do not run at high RPMs for long periods, so drive should be cool.
Would seal line into drive at transom and line to drive so no water can enter drive.
Will this create problems? Plan to check lube every season.
Also any good recommendations for a mechanic in Western Ma Greenfield area?
Thank you,
Wayne
 
I would not do that. Too many things to go bad. The monitor bottle is there so you know you have or are leaking lube. Without it - by the time you realize there is a problem it will be too late and much more costly. Pull the drive and have it repaired properly. You will be way ahead.
 
That fluid will expand and contract. My reservoir level will rise 1/2" or so when hot. You might blow a seal, not sure.
 
If closed system, the oil and air inside drive will expand, pushing oil past seals and into the water.

And when the drive cools down and the oil (and small air bubble at top) contracts, it will suck oil from bottle in OEM system. If system is closed, will suck water in from around seals.
 
Reducing the pressure in the drive in turn reduces the pressure of the lip seals on the shafts. Longer shaft and seal life. It is there for more than just monitoring the level.
 
That job is no joke. Remove drive and transom helmet/bell and most likely lift and move the engine forward.
 
Agree with all the above comments. Case in point, last year I started seeing traces of water in the lube bottle. I was able to quickly determine my shift shaft seal was leaking. I pulled the drive and replaced the $20 seal vs not knowing there was a leak until the end of the season and 50hrs of run time. The lube monitor is one of the good things Mercruiser did with their drives.

Granted, the fitting is not easy to change - why in the world it is plastic is beyond me. To do it right you have to pull the drive and possibly loosen the hinge pins to move the bell housing and you should replace the gearlube hose at the same time. I did mine because I broke it chaning the bellows. Inside the boat is the real PIA due to access. In my case I could do it by turning the steering hard over STB and that got the steering ram out of the way - and I tied a string to the E-clip that I kept dropping. In some cases you have to remove the steering arm, PS cooler and even risers, but it can be done on most boats.
 
The plastic part that is broken can be replaced without moving the engine. If the 2 power steering actuator retainer bolts are removed allowing the actuator assembly to be moved a couple inches the plastic part and the e-clip can be replaced.
The oil line from the fitting to the bell housing can also be replaced without pulling the outdrive.
I was able to accomplish the task on the starboard motor/outdrive.
 
Wanderer 290 said:
The plastic part that is broken can be replaced without moving the engine. If the 2 power steering actuator retainer bolts are removed allowing the actuator assembly to be moved a couple inches the plastic part and the e-clip can be replaced.
The oil line from the fitting to the bell housing can also be replaced without pulling the outdrive.
I was able to accomplish the task on the starboard motor/outdrive.
Click to expand...
Hello All: Appreciate all the info. Do you have a pix on what two bolts need removal to move the actuator?
Wayne
 
scoflaw said:
It's the large screw with a locking tab. Top one is easy, bottom one damn near impossible.
Click to expand...
End of saga: had a good mechanic replace the thru hull oil fitting. He did it without removing the engine, but did remove the steering bolts as above. He was able to find a brass version that fit and sealed OK and replaced the plastic junk. So far so good. No leaks and no water in oil.
Another option would be to seal off the old system and then install the fitting thru the hull away from the drive assy. Then a short hose to the upper oil check port with a barb fitting. Enough hose to allow steering movement. Would have been a much better solution in any case but Merc wanted to keep it in the drive.
 
There is actually a thru hull kit available for the old pre-alpha / TRS drives that were closed systems. External S/S line / braided hose connects to the vent plug on stbd side of the upper drive.
 
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