Official 330 Sundancer Thread

TheSTRdude said:
Connecting fuel line to carburetor.

1995 mercruiser 7.4 - it’s in a 330DA. Had to remove the carburetor - reattached and can’t get fuel now.

wondering what I’m missing as I feel like it’s simple. Everything worked fine before. Tried starting fluid and engine will only run when it’s sprayed in. Is there an O-ring between the fuel line and carburetor that provides suction? Or does the line just go straight in and tighten?
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Check the float bowl. Maybe the float was assembled improperly and is stuck in the up position closing the needle valve.
https://www.carburetor-blog.com/knowledge-base/how-a-carburetor-works-float-system/
 
Considering changing my compound/polish/wax process this year. Narrowed choices to Starke and Presta lines. I have a dewalt rotary and my hull is not too bad of shape that DON'T THINK I would need anything too aggressive like the Starke Level R or Presta Super Cut. I would appreciate any feedback from those of you that have had good results from either of these. Please let me know your products, pads and process. Thanks
 
I think you wont know how deep to go until you try a couple of test areas.

Starke Level R with white wool pad on a dewalt rotary
Starke elevate on a white wool pad but can try on a yellow polishing pad as well
Starke ignition on an orange lake country forced rotation pad on a flex vrg 3401

Last year i used both the presta supercut as well as the level r and found the level r to be a superior product
 
JohnGordon said:
The seal is very similar to the original. The original was flattened and did not seal very well. The seal sticks to the underside of the hatch and seals against the lip that is molded in the cockpit floor that goes around the engine compartment. Yes, it did help with reducing noise.


Yep, lots of standing on my head working down there. My back still hurts from the last time I worked down there a couple of weeks ago.
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I have a very similar situation with my 2013 330DA. If I come off of plain too quickly, my boat wake spills over the swim platform and floods into the engine compartment. The engine hatch sealing strip foam looks very flat and needs to be replaced. I'm hoping the sealing material you found is salt water resistant, including the glue/adhesive. Can you tell me how long it took you to install?
 
Shaps said:
I think you wont know how deep to go until you try a couple of test areas.

Starke Level R with white wool pad on a dewalt rotary
Starke elevate on a white wool pad but can try on a yellow polishing pad as well
Starke ignition on an orange lake country forced rotation pad on a flex vrg 3401

Last year i used both the presta supercut as well as the level r and found the level r to be a superior product
Click to expand...
 
Shaps said:
I think you wont know how deep to go until you try a couple of test areas.

Starke Level R with white wool pad on a dewalt rotary
Starke elevate on a white wool pad but can try on a yellow polishing pad as well
Starke ignition on an orange lake country forced rotation pad on a flex vrg 3401

Last year i used both the presta supercut as well as the level r and found the level r to be a superior product
Click to expand...
I do not own the Flex forced rotation. Is there a non-forced rotation polisher that you might suggest with the orange pad to remove swirl marks? Would a DA work or another type sponge pad on my rotary?
 
@Geowh
a regular DA like the porter cable 7424xp will not work because as you apply pressure to the pad, the pad will cease rotating.
That's the reason for the forced rotation DA like the flex or the rupes.

I think you can get close, but inherent in all rotary polishers/pads will be swirl marks to varying degrees.

All that being said, I had positive results with the Starke ignition on a 3m yellow pad
https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/p/d/b40067386/

and I would consider a lake country purple wool pad
https://www.detailedimage.com/Lake-Country-M7/Purple-Foamed-Wool-Pad-P207/65-S1/
 
Have any 330DA owners had any issues with water flooding into the engine room after coming off of plane? I find that if I come off plane too quickly, my wake floods over the swim platform and goes into the engine room. The bilge pump automatically turns on and pumps out a ton of water. I checked the engine hatch foam seal, and it appears to still be intact, although it's a bit flattened. The salt water is corroding electrical connections for various components.

Just curious if any other 330 owners have had similar experiences. If so, what did you do to resolve the issue?
 
Had this issue with my Monterey 302. Turned out to be the dock water connection in the storage compartment, it was letting wake water in. Had to replace it and re-bed it.

Never had this issue with my 330DA though.

I suggest you open the engine hatch prior to bringing her down from plane, have somebody put their eyes on it or put a camera in there so you can see where it's coming from.
 
mrsrobinson said:
Had this issue with my Monterey 302. Turned out to be the dock water connection in the storage compartment, it was letting wake water in. Had to replace it and re-bed it.

Never had this issue with my 330DA though.

I suggest you open the engine hatch prior to bringing her down from plane, have somebody put their eyes on it or put a camera in there so you can see where it's coming from.
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Thanks. I also plan to take a freshwater hose and spray the transom area and swim platform to see if I can find the source of the leak.
 
I had this issue. It was the hull-deck joint right above the swim platform. I re-sealed it when took off all of the rub rail and did the entire joint all around the boat.
 
Can anyone tell me how the Engine Hatch Dash Switch is wired? I replaced my dash on my '98 330 Sundancer over the weekend and tagged all the wires, but as the hatch switch was the first I tagged by the time I came back to it the tags had come loose in the heat. Thanks
 
Messer said:
Can anyone tell me how the Engine Hatch Dash Switch is wired? I replaced my dash on my '98 330 Sundancer over the weekend and tagged all the wires, but as the hatch switch was the first I tagged by the time I came back to it the tags had come loose in the heat. Thanks
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You should complete your user profile with your boat size an your location. Sometimes your location may be related to a concern that your are trying to address.
 
Messer said:
Can anyone tell me how the Engine Hatch Dash Switch is wired? I replaced my dash on my '98 330 Sundancer over the weekend and tagged all the wires, but as the hatch switch was the first I tagged by the time I came back to it the tags had come loose in the heat. Thanks
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Current Guess - On the hard so no power to test

Hatch_Switch-1.jpg
 
Messer. I just redid my dash this past weekend as well. Youve got a couple wires wrong. Here is a picture of how mine was wired (1996).

Messer said:
Can anyone tell me how the Engine Hatch Dash Switch is wired? I replaced my dash on my '98 330 Sundancer over the weekend and tagged all the wires, but as the hatch switch was the first I tagged by the time I came back to it the tags had come loose in the heat. Thanks
Click to expand...
 

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Does anyone know what model vacuflush head was used on a 1996 sundancer 330? I need to order some parts for it but forgot to write down the model # before leaving the boat this past weekend. Looking at pictures I think it might be the 506+?
 
Working on removing port prop shaft so I can remove and repair the bent strut... I successfully used the slide hammer method to free the shaft from the coupling, and proceeded to slide hammer the shaft out without thinking about shaft seal... DOH. I didn't get the shaft all of the way out, but almost. I had to give up for the night, but worried I probably damaged the dripless seal. Anyone have experience pulling the prop shaft and know what is required to do with the shaft seal in order to pull the shaft? The seal tube is blue and has one cooling port. Also, anyone know the outside diameter of the shaft log where the shaft seal tube slides over? I have '96 with Hurth V-drives and 1-1/4" shafts. Want to get a seal on order in case I toasted it...
Thanks!
 
Hello turbotadd,

That is strange… Maybe the keyway in the shaft is hanging up on the Dripless Seal preventing you from pulling it through. I had my shafts out some time ago and it was a real m’fer trying to get the keyway back in the shaft for reassembly.

Maybe push the shaft up to where the end is visible and have someone rotate the shaft to see if the keyway is still there.

As for the dripless seal, I have always wondered how to replace them. That will be no easy task. I would think you may have to pull the exhaust manifold, etc. to get access.
 
Does anyone know the replacement model number for the transom hatch gas spring? I need to replace mine and I cannot find any model identification on it. It only shows the name SpringLift, no other information.
 
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