40 sedan bridge forum

my3sons said:
To remove the lights, grab them by the gold outer ring and pull while carefully working it down. When you get it down about a half inch, you will see the spring loaded retainers, one directly across from the other. Continue to work it down being careful not to let the retainers snap your fingers. (Think mouse trap)
Can’t help with the ceiling.
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The interesting part is many of the springs will possibly be broken. Actually what happens is the metal cylinder housing splits vertically in several places dislodging the spring from its anchor point.
 
I didn’t realize that was common, I had one break like that once. I fixed it with a small piece of some aluminum chimney flashing I had and a pop rivet gun.
 
ZZ13 said:
Their order of aggressiveness from less to more is Ultra Polish, then Ultra Cutting Creme light, then Ultra Cutting Creme, then Super Cut. Try starting with Ultra Cutting Creme light. I use their white foam cutting pad 890171 with it. If you feel you need to go more aggressive then Ultra Cutting Creme with the same pad will work. Or switch to a wool cutting pad.

I have not used any of the products that they’ve label specifically for gelcoat.
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Do you normally just use the ultra cutting cream or ultra cutting cream light. Do you finish with the ultra polish, like a 2 step process? Do use a rotary or random orbital buffer?
 
Geowh said:
Do you normally just use the ultra cutting cream or ultra cutting cream light. Do you finish with the ultra polish, like a 2 step process? Do use a rotary or random orbital buffer?
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You have to use a good rotary. A random orbital will not cut through the oxidation. I have the Makita 9227. Very popular among the detailers. I never need anything stronger than the Ultra Cutting Creme light. Although sometimes I use the regular ultra cutting Creme when I do tight spaces by hand. Some places just the polish is good enough. I do not follow up with the polish when I use the light. If I had to use the regular ultra cutting Creme I’d consider following up with the polish. I do the entire boat once a year.
 
ZZ13 said:
You have to use a good rotary. A random orbital will not cut through the oxidation. I have the Makita 9227. Very popular among the detailers. I never need anything stronger than the Ultra Cutting Creme light. Although sometimes I use the regular ultra cutting Creme when I do tight spaces by hand. Some places just the polish is good enough. I do not follow up with the polish when I use the light. If I had to use the regular ultra cutting Creme I’d consider following up with the polish. I do the entire boat once a year.
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Thanks for all the help! I have the Dewalt rotary. I think it's comparable to the makita. Do you use wool pads like the softer yellow, green or blue or sponge? Does your process leave you will a good swirl free finish? I like what I'm ready about Presta. They claim their products don't contain any waxes silicone or fillers so the finish you get is a true finish as apposed to something that goes away after washing. I also think you can apply a selant or wax after using because of this? Sorry for all the questions but with the cost of some of these products I'm trying to rely on successful experience of others rather than trial and error.
 
You might get much more help posting the same general question in the General Maintenance section as this section has a much smaller audience focused just on 400s.
I have seen great discussions recently that are available thru a quick search.
Good luck.
 
Geowh said:
Thanks for all the help! I have the Dewalt rotary. I think it's comparable to the makita. Do you use wool pads like the softer yellow, green or blue or sponge? Does your process leave you will a good swirl free finish? I like what I'm ready about Presta. They claim their products don't contain any waxes silicone or fillers so the finish you get is a true finish as apposed to something that goes away after washing. I also think you can apply a selant or wax after using because of this? Sorry for all the questions but with the cost of some of these products I'm trying to rely on successful experience of others rather than trial and error.
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I mostly follow Prestas recommendations:

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Finally got around to replacing my cockpit door rollers this weekend. My god, what a difference! Probably something that I would have never taken on if not for previous posts on this forum, so thanks ZZ13 and others. Was super easy with just a Phillips head, a 1x2 block of wood that I picked up, and a rubber mallet to coax the bottom rail off. One thing that I didn't expect was that the bottom rubber glazing holding the glass in the frame is not in two pieces that might pull out, but a U shaped channel piece that the glass sits in. This does not need to be removed from the glass either during removal, or re-installing the bottom frame rail. I should have done this a long time ago.
 
Drafter said:
Finally got around to replacing my cockpit door rollers this weekend. My god, what a difference! Probably something that I would have never taken on if not for previous posts on this forum, so thanks ZZ13 and others. Was super easy with just a Phillips head, a 1x2 block of wood that I picked up, and a rubber mallet to coax the bottom rail off. One thing that I didn't expect was that the bottom rubber glazing holding the glass in the frame is not in two pieces that might pull out, but a U shaped channel piece that the glass sits in. This does not need to be removed from the glass either during removal, or re-installing the bottom frame rail. I should have done this a long time ago.
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How was your track? Mine was so lumpy I had to put the ss insert on top of mine.

the door is used so much that when you fix the rollers and track you feel like you are on a new boat.
 
ZZ13 said:
How was your track? Mine was so lumpy I had to put the ss insert on top of mine.

the door is used so much that when you fix the rollers and track you feel like you are on a new boat.
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I replaced the track last year with a stainless steel overlay. It definitely helped some, but with new rollers, and the track, it's super smooth.
 
Drafter said:
I went through my Amazon orders where I ordered mine, and it's a 1 1/2". Here's a pic of my install. Measure 38 times cut once!
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This is so excellent. I did mine a week ago. I measured at least 25 times and had a level and a plumb bob and a framing square. When I finally pushed a 1/8 bit through from the inside, I then used the hole saw from the outside and was done in approx 11 minutes after that. lol
Yes it was 1 1.5 inches and now I love sending the food to the fishes. lol
 
Do you have a link to the stainless insert, I replaced the rollers but the track is too worn and still doesn't slide great.


ZZ13 said:
How was your track? Mine was so lumpy I had to put the ss insert on top of mine.

the door is used so much that when you fix the rollers and track you feel like you are on a new boat.
Click to expand...
 
When I put in the vinyl plank flooring, that little bit of extra weight was too much for the factory lifters to hold the port door open, since the door could only go to a 45 degree opening. So I just replaced the factory 100lb lifters with 120lb. It works but just barely. 130 would be better. May end up having to get the 150s one day. Turns out the front shock had been replaced with a 90. So I had a 100 and a 90 on there. Now I have two 120s.
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Well, we did it. Ran into Florida Bow Thrusters at the Annapolis Boat Show last October and had a long discussion about swim platforms. Then my wife and I went over and walked on all five of the Sabres and Back Coves they had at the show. Nothing like the price of a new boat to make a hydraulic swim platform look inexpensive! We had been looking at new platforms for a couple years and weren’t happy with any of the after market ones we looked at. So we went with FBT. They did an excellent job getting “in there” behind everything to get the old one off and the new one on. No small feat as the exhausts had to come off. Bonus - they relocated my Reverso so it’s now easier to access! We splashed today. After one test run, it didn’t feel low in the stern at all - something I was thinking about. And that’s with full fuel and mostly full water. I find myself still “stepping up” to come in the transom, but I suppose I’ll get used to it. I love that the platform is no longer at the water line.
38A09299-4C7B-45BF-93DF-28086FD9FC20.jpeg
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Hi. Does anyone know where is the relay switch for the horn installed? Where do the wires from the horn run from the anchor compartment?
 
scooper321 said:
Well, we did it. Ran into Florida Bow Thrusters at the Annapolis Boat Show last October and had a long discussion about swim platforms. Then my wife and I went over and walked on all five of the Sabres and Back Coves they had at the show. Nothing like the price of a new boat to make a hydraulic swim platform look inexpensive! We had been looking at new platforms for a couple years and weren’t happy with any of the after market ones we looked at. So we went with FBT. They did an excellent job getting “in there” behind everything to get the old one off and the new one on. No small feat as the exhausts had to come off. Bonus - they relocated my Reverso so it’s now easier to access! We splashed today. After one test run, it didn’t feel low in the stern at all - something I was thinking about. And that’s with full fuel and mostly full water. I find myself still “stepping up” to come in the transom, but I suppose I’ll get used to it. I love that the platform is no longer at the water line.
View attachment 125730 View attachment 125732
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Wow, looks great. WTH is that in the sky of your second pic?
 
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