40 sedan bridge forum

Is there a way to calibrate either the sender or the gauge for a bit more accuracy? I don't do long distance cruising, but prefer not to fill up any more often than necessary. (My club manager noted that around 2010 people were filling up more frequently to avoid the inevitably higher price each time they stopped at the gas dock. In those days, I took on what I expected to use for the weekend so I wasn't carrying around all the extra weight.)
 
Hat Trick said:
Is there a way to calibrate either the sender or the gauge for a bit more accuracy? I don't do long distance cruising, but prefer not to fill up any more often than necessary. (My club manager noted that around 2010 people were filling up more frequently to avoid the inevitably higher price each time they stopped at the gas dock. In those days, I took on what I expected to use for the weekend so I wasn't carrying around all the extra weight.)
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The sender is just a variable resister. 33 ohms at full and 240 ohms at empty. I guess you could try something like this between the sender and the gauge.
https://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/...TGn5LKDbvveIjfdMk6bPfjHsL1jKImlwaAp4WEALw_wcB
 
Njlarry said:
Anyone know where to find wire runs from the engine room to the bridge? Hopefully there are one or more conduit channels where additional wires can be added.
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Larry, I believe the cables run down the port side, go behind the CD player and then behind the power panel to the bilge. In that general area is where I understand the runs are located.
 
Njlarry said:
Anyone know where to find wire runs from the engine room to the bridge? Hopefully there are one or more conduit channels where additional wires can be added.
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Take off the port bridge speaker and the chase from the bridge to salon is right below it. Push your new wire down through that hole. It comes out behind the stereo panel. Then run it aft and push it down into the area behind the electrical panel. Open the electrical panel door to pull it through. Then crawl under the bridge stairs and pull it into there and then down into the engine room (if you are going that far). Just follow the other wires to get it into the engine room.
 
Brian Wert said:
I’ve been eyeballing this https://www.thekitchenprep.com/ as a drop in replacement for our broken Nutone in-countertop blender if it’s just a matter of it not working and not a matter of reclaiming/repurposing the countertop space.

If you do get rid of it and it still works, let me know. Maybe we can work out a deal. ;)
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Brian - Any luck with the blender? Tried to contact the people who run thekitchenprep.com and was unable to get anywhere. Site seems outdated and phone number is disconnected. Cannot locate modern replacement or used NuTone anywhere. Open to suggestions as my NuTone is a goner as well. Thanks!
 
These reading lights in staterooms (see attached). do I just pull the bulb straight out to change it , or twist, or ? I tried to pull but not too hard, it didn’t come out , wary of pulling too hard and breaking something or getting a finger full of glass
 

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Mostly, push in, twist and remove. Your mileage may vary.
 
Gary J Marsh said:
Brian - Any luck with the blender? Tried to contact the people who run thekitchenprep.com and was unable to get anywhere. Site seems outdated and phone number is disconnected. Cannot locate modern replacement or used NuTone anywhere. Open to suggestions as my NuTone is a goner as well. Thanks!
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Gary - Sorry for the false lead and run around. I had only previously found the link and booked marked it under future projects. Sounds like that option is out the window.
 
JASON P GRIFFITH said:
Throwing it out there again. Anyone found a microwave that is plug and play size? No modifications? I don't mind them but if a new one fails in 3 years and need to replace again I don't want to be re-cutting AGAIN. Funny thing is I have not even used mine except for popcorn in 7 years. But the digital display is still rubbing me the wrong way.
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Jason - A Kalorik MW 26146 was installed by the previous owner. It looks like it fit with no modifications.
 

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Hey Capt’s! I know this has been covered a million times, but I can’t seem to find the size used for the tubing and thru hall fitting. I want to cut a hole for the sink to drain out the side of the boat. Please see the attached picture - Which one is the correct one? Thanks in advance!
 

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Johnny Utah said:
Hey Capt’s! I know this has been covered a million times, but I can’t seem to find the size used for the tubing and thru hall fitting. I want to cut a hole for the sink to drain out the side of the boat. Please see the attached picture - Which one is the correct one? Thanks in advance!
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I went through my Amazon orders where I ordered mine, and it's a 1 1/2". Here's a pic of my install. Measure 38 times cut once!
 

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i have a B&G autopilot and I suspect the hydraulic autopilot pump motor is defunct, or maybe/luckily it's just a fuse. Thing is, which fuse. Probably not a breaker as the ones I know about all look good and nothing else is dead. It's hard to trace the black and and white cables from the motor at first sight.

There's a set of blade fuses under the dashboard. There's no map of them I can find in manuals, maybe they are there solely for electronics added after the original build.

learned opinions invited

if there's no fuse I'll try testing it with a direct 12v connection next time I am there some way or other
 

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ZZ13 said:
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So since it's plastic and gelcoat is plastic I decided to give it a try with my Presta products today. Started with Supercut, then Ultra Cutting Creme, then Ultra Polish. It almost looks normal now.
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I am considering this Presta process on my 330 Dancer. My hull is in good shape but needs more shine. Is the Supercut too aggressive? Have you tried the Presta Gelcoat? What process/pads did you use? Thanks
 
Geowh said:
I am considering this Presta process on my 330 Dancer. My hull is in good shape but needs more shine. Is the Supercut too aggressive? Have you tried the Presta Gelcoat? What process/pads did you use? Thanks
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Their order of aggressiveness from less to more is Ultra Polish, then Ultra Cutting Creme light, then Ultra Cutting Creme, then Super Cut. Try starting with Ultra Cutting Creme light. I use their white foam cutting pad 890171 with it. If you feel you need to go more aggressive then Ultra Cutting Creme with the same pad will work. Or switch to a wool cutting pad.

I have not used any of the products that they’ve label specifically for gelcoat.
 
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Has anyone removed and replaced the ceiling panels in the salon? I know I’d have to remove the lights first and upgrade those too.

If so, how difficult were they to remove without breaking them? Any pictures or ideas of replacement panels?
 
To remove the lights, grab them by the gold outer ring and pull while carefully working it down. When you get it down about a half inch, you will see the spring loaded retainers, one directly across from the other. Continue to work it down being careful not to let the retainers snap your fingers. (Think mouse trap)
Can’t help with the ceiling.
 
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