300 Sundancer questions.

I had mine replaced about 6 seasons ago. The new one had a black grille and was a direct fit. That said... it started to misbehave at the end of last season. Still worked but the tone was off. I'll be looking for a new one too.
 
JimFromMD said:
I had mine replaced about 6 seasons ago. The new one had a black grille and was a direct fit. That said... it started to misbehave at the end of last season. Still worked but the tone was off. I'll be looking for a new one too.
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i’d be more than happy with 6 years. i can’t believe this is such a pain in the ass
 
stelios hondrcolos said:
i’d be more than happy with 6 years. i can’t believe this is such a pain in the ass
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Have you asked a sea ray dealer to provide the manufacturer and part number? If they don't have it anymore I have had them provide the info to source a replacement part. The other option is to retrofit what you have with working horns. IE- keep the mounts and trumpets. I think you said it was a hidden dual trumpet in a nother post? If you have that obsolete part share it and I bet someone can find you a substitute item...
 
Have any of you replaced the galley facuet? It's kinda hard to see the hose connections but they look standard. Hoping one of you knows the dimension of the hole in the counter along with the connection/fitting size for the hoses. Thanks!
 
Phil, trying to say so makes sense…
I have replaced galley and head faucets in multiple boats, just did both in mine last summer. In every case it was plug and play. Every faucet fit the existing end of water line screw on thingamajiggy.
I have always got replacement faucets from boat or RV sites. I hear some have used house faucets from Home Depot so I can’t vouch for fitment on those.
they are up behind the sink and you can’t see a thing.
It’s all by feel, although a mirror and big light can help.
Bath faucet took 10 minutes. Galley, I got the hot water (left) side easy, but the cold side gave me a fit. Threads just didn’t want to start. After an hour I walked away for a while, got the cramps out of my fingers, arms, legs, then finally got it to connect.
 
Pirate Lady said:
Phil, trying to say so makes sense…
I have replaced galley and head faucets in multiple boats, just did both in mine last summer. In every case it was plug and play. Every faucet fit the existing end of water line screw on thingamajiggy.
I have always got replacement faucets from boat or RV sites. I hear some have used house faucets from Home Depot so I can’t vouch for fitment on those.
they are up behind the sink and you can’t see a thing.
It’s all by feel, although a mirror and big light can help.
Bath faucet took 10 minutes. Galley, I got the hot water (left) side easy, but the cold side gave me a fit. Threads just didn’t want to start. After an hour I walked away for a while, got the cramps out of my fingers, arms, legs, then finally got it to connect.
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Ok thanks! Done a ton of kitchen and bath faucets and have all the tools .... just wondering if there was anything unique to this. Last fall when I ran pink through the faucets, this one would not shut off all the way when it's under pressure so it has to go! :eek:
 
My new Hardin Gen 7 sea pumps just arrived. These are too nice to be installed !!!

I'm doing a complete refresh of the engine fronts (sea pumps, thermostat housings, thermostats, circ pumps, belts, pulleys etc) and will post before/after pics.

Hope everyone is psyched for the upcoming season!
 
I was browsing other 300s for sale and I came across this one. No vent covers on either side!

As it is, I get water in the bilge when it rains heavy. I can't imagine this is good in the long run :eek:

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Her Diamond 2 said:
Our dingy is a 10.2 ft Zodiac with a 9.9 Johnson (2-stroke). I went with the Hurley Davit system over Weaver since I wasn't crazy about gluing pads to the dingy and going through the pain of lifting the dingy onto the swimplatform sideways. I did have a problem where the Hurley was wearing a hole through the bottom of the dingy and Hurley mailed me a new part that solved the problem. Hurley was great about it, no questions they sent the part at no charge. I believe I used the 10 inch brakets to install the Hurley. Unfortunately I don't have pictures of the underside of the swim platform but I used stainless steel bolts with stainless backing plates. I tried to upload a few pictures however it keeps telling me the upload failed. If you send me a PM with your email I'd be more than glad to send them to you unless you can tell me why the upload failed.
Neil
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I realize this post about ten years old but I'm looking at getting a zodiac for my 300 and would love to hear how other members have handled this. What's the best way carry/mount your tenders?
 
What do you guys recommend for new plugs in the 5.0? The Mercrusier stickers says AC 41-932 at 0.060 but wondering if that's changed over the years?
 

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Phil S said:
What do you guys recommend for new plugs in the 5.0? The Mercrusier stickers says AC 41-932 at 0.060 but wondering if that's changed over the years?
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I have always replaced the standard plugs with the ones that have the higher energy electrodes. They throw a hotter spark and last longer. To be honest, I've not changed the plugs in either boat yet. Wires yes, but the plugs have looked great. But the plugs in my 5.7l pickup goes through the stock plugs. The better ones have lasted almost 135k miles. And it picked up roughly 1 to 1.5 miles per gallon, so there is a better burn of the fuel.
 
Hi guys,

New to the forum and I am hoping to get some help. I am trying to remove the stairs on my 300da due to the last step weld being broken. I have seen others with added support welded in to keep this from happening. I was wondering if anyone has removed their cabin stairs and can give me some direction. I removed the trim from around the cabin door along with threshold. You can see the two bolts holding stairs up. I also removed the 4 screws from the underside of the inside cabin upholstery panel. My problem is I can’t remove the ladder without pulling the upholstery panel. It seems still attached on both sides. I can’t tell if there are Christmas trees still holding the upholstery panel on our it is siliconed. Any help with directions on how to get the stairs out would be appreciated. Thanks.
 
mmyrhb said:
Hi guys,

New to the forum and I am hoping to get some help. I am trying to remove the stairs on my 300da due to the last step weld being broken. I have seen others with added support welded in to keep this from happening. I was wondering if anyone has removed their cabin stairs and can give me some direction. I removed the trim from around the cabin door along with threshold. You can see the two bolts holding stairs up. I also removed the 4 screws from the underside of the inside cabin upholstery panel. My problem is I can’t remove the ladder without pulling the upholstery panel. It seems still attached on both sides. I can’t tell if there are Christmas trees still holding the upholstery panel on our it is siliconed. Any help with directions on how to get the stairs out would be appreciated. Thanks.
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Welcome to the site! The panel should be on with Christmas trees. Do you have some of those flat plastic tools for prying off panels?

I think you're doing the right thing by removing the stairs to fix the weld vs trying to weld them in place :eek:

This is what it looks like in the parts manual

upload_2022-4-26_3-21-15.png
 
Phil S said:
Welcome to the site! The panel should be on with Christmas trees. Do you have some of those flat plastic tools for prying off panels?

I think you're doing the right thing by removing the stairs to fix the weld vs trying to weld them in place :eek:

This is what it looks like in the parts manual

View attachment 125144
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Hi Phil

I do have some trim pulling tools. When I get a moment I will try again and post my results for others.
Thanks.
 
kaguilar said:
Hello Everyone,

Well, I've got an issue with the companionway stairs. This weekend I went to climb out of the cabin up the stairs and into the cockpit and noticed the bottom step moved slightly. After inspecting the step, I noticed there were cracks along the welds connecting the support struts for the step to the cylindrical spine. So, I figured I would remove the steps and have someone weld the cracks. The bottom of the steps are attached with 4 screws. The top portion of the steps are hidden behind the vinyl interior trim panels.

Has anyone removed these trim panels before? I noticed the are some plastic caps that are perhaps concealing some fasteners. But, it appears these caps are glued or somehow otherwise permanently attached.

Any help/advice on how to remove these vinyl interior panels would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
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mmyrhb said:
Hi Phil

I do have some trim pulling tools. When I get a moment I will try again and post my results for others.
Thanks.
Click to expand...
If you don’t mind I have the exact same issue. I’d like to remove the steps then take to a weld shop. We’re you able to get the top unattached?
 
Mtshain said:
If you don’t mind I have the exact same issue. I’d like to remove the steps then take to a weld shop. We’re you able to get the top unattached?
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I ended up pulling stairs out today. Like I feared there are two screws under the upholstery sea ray didn’t allow for access. I will have to silicone them back in. Once those two screws were loose I was able to unbolt from the underside.
 

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