The 2022 springtime Shine Thread

Strecker25 said:
Our non-skid is chalky, bad enough that it would leave white on your pants if you sat down

I’ve hit it with a wool pad and cut with a heavy cut compound. I followed up with a pass with a wool polishing pad then sealed with Starke sealant. Seems to work fine but it’s very tedious. I was also working in sunshine today and had to give up because the compound would flash over and dry too quickly

any of you had to tackle the non-skid like this? Any alternative methods? We have the diamond pattern so it’s a challenge to get in between them to remove the oxidation. My previous boat was just the texture and much easier.
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I've been using pro-cut compound with a smaller (hard) pad on a smaller (cheap) rotary for my non-skid so far. Followed by bubble gum. I plan to hit the foredeck area with a larger wool pad as you've been doing starting this weekend. I've been pleased with the foam pad result, hoping for similar with wool. If I don't get it, I'll use the smaller one as I have been.

I do have the less aggressive style of non-skid, however.

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Stee6043 said:
I've been using pro-cut compound with a smaller (hard) pad on a smaller (cheap) rotary for my non-skid so far. Followed by bubble gum. I plan to hit the foredeck area with a larger wool pad as you've been doing starting this weekend. I've been pleased with the foam pad result, hoping for similar with wool. If I don't get it, I'll use the smaller one as I have been.

I do have the less aggressive style of non-skid, however.

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I did just that about 20 minutes ago using that same buffer and a similar pad. The diamond eats up the foam but I don’t care as I have a lot of them and they were cheap.

then I went to another section and tried a medium bristle drill brush with imperial compound, followed by a polish and the foam pad and I’m really happy with how it came out. It is going to take a few coats of a sealant because it’s so dry it’s just sucking it up but it’s very clean and even has a little shine now.

Ignore the smooth sections in between the nonskid, I haven’t done those yet

yours looks awesome.

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Found this chart of Collinite products..
Fleetwax 885 is the most difficult to use, but it is also the longest durability. 1.5x the durability of 925
Anyone who has waxed with 885 can attest to the lack of 'ease of use'
 

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Strecker25 said:
I did just that about 20 minutes ago using that same buffer and a similar pad. The diamond eats up the foam but I don’t care as I have a lot of them and they were cheap.

then I went to another section and tried a medium bristle drill brush with imperial compound, followed by a polish and the foam pad and I’m really happy with how it came out. It is going to take a few coats of a sealant because it’s so dry it’s just sucking it up but it’s very clean and even has a little shine now.

Ignore the smooth sections in between the nonskid, I haven’t done those yet

yours looks awesome.

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Nice! Looks great.

Yeah, I've found that hitting snaps is for more devastating to the foam pads than the non-skid itself. Ha :)
 
Shaps said:
Found this chart of Collinite products..
Fleetwax 885 is the most difficult to use, but it is also the longest durability. 1.5x the durability of 925
Anyone who has waxed with 885 can attest to the lack of 'ease of use'
Click to expand...
It’s not pad if applied correctly. I use a foam appoicator. Don’t put it on to thick. Spreading is the key. Do not use in direct sunlight. It’s the sun that makes it difficult. You do. It want that stuff to dry like turtle was paste. You will cry baby seal tears trying to get it off. In the building I could do 4x6 foot sections since there was no sun. I’ve used it outside on sunny days and stick to the 2x2 sections
 
Shaps said:
Found this chart of Collinite products..
Fleetwax 885 is the most difficult to use, but it is also the longest durability. 1.5x the durability of 925
Anyone who has waxed with 885 can attest to the lack of 'ease of use'
Click to expand...
Using the fleetwax 870. In the shade and no problems
 
Sadly according to Drakes latest YouTube.....he’s totally divorced from Starke and Marine Detail Supply. His personal site doesn’t even exist anymore, Marinedetailsupply shut it down.

He’s using some new product now, but I’m totally sold on Starke.
 
Went back and tried the Starke ignition with an orange lake country forced rotation pad on my flex vrg3401. Followed it up with a coat of collinite 885.
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Pretty satisfied with the results.

@Farmboy666
I had heard about drake and marine supply parting ways and them shutting down his site.
Unfortunate but sht happens. Like you, I am pretty satisfied with the Starke products
 
Shaps said:
Went back and tried the Starke ignition with an orange lake country forced rotation pad on my flex vrg3401. Followed it up with a coat of collinite 885.
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Pretty satisfied with the results.

@Farmboy666
I had heard about drake and marine supply parting ways and them shutting down his site.
Unfortunate but sht happens. Like you, I am pretty satisfied with the Starke products
Click to expand...

looks great. I'm also sold on their polishes and compounds but will reserve judgement on the sealant until we get a season on it.
 
My wife’s mini speed boat. This was Elevate on a Rupes Mille with an orange LC pad, followed by Hyperhold. This is on an Awlcraft 2000 paintjob that was never properly finished.....shiny, but it had a bunch of halo’s from a rotary.
Big boat is next.
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I just finished up working with Starke products for my second year and still loved the outcome so I’m sticking with them as well. The only question I have is. On my top deck non-skid (diamond pattern) I have little black dots along the edge of the diamond. I tried a wool pad and heavy cut compound and it would not remove them. So I bought a cheap power washer that had a low PSI (I didn’t want to damage the gel cost) and the power washer took care of the black dots on the non skid, I then followed up with a heavy cut then medium cut then a sealant and those dots returned pretty quickly so pretty disappointed after all the time spent . Anyone have any good tips to prevent those dots from returning, I thought about removing the black spots again and trying woody wax on the nonskid as I’ve heard good things. Any thoughts?
 
Jcclark85 said:
I just finished up working with Starke products for my second year and still loved the outcome so I’m sticking with them as well. The only question I have is. On my top deck non-skid (diamond pattern) I have little black dots along the edge of the diamond. I tried a wool pad and heavy cut compound and it would not remove them. So I bought a cheap power washer that had a low PSI (I didn’t want to damage the gel cost) and the power washer took care of the black dots on the non skid, I then followed up with a heavy cut then medium cut then a sealant and those dots returned pretty quickly so pretty disappointed after all the time spent . Anyone have any good tips to prevent those dots from returning, I thought about removing the black spots again and trying woody wax on the nonskid as I’ve heard good things. Any thoughts?
Click to expand...
Is it possible your gelcoat has thinned out there?
 
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I posted these pics in another thread…this is a boat being wrapped behind me in storage…. The boat is 40’ ….talking to the lady that owns the company. She said it lasts 5 years if you want to peel it off….. it will last 12-15years but you can’t get it off.. $8k to do my boat.
What I didn’t like is they didn’t take the stripes off….so you see them under the wrap…don’t like that….actually I didn’t understand wrapping a white boat

Original white hull

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Blueone said:
I posted these pics in another thread…this is a boat being wrapped behind me in storage…. The boat is 40’ ….talking to the lady that owns the company. She said it lasts 5 years if you want to peel it off….. it will last 12-15years but you can’t get it off.. $8k to do my boat.
What I didn’t like is they didn’t take the stripes off….so you see them under the wrap…don’t like that….actually I didn’t understand wrapping a white boat

Original white hull

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Click to expand...

I guess that's one way to get out of waxing for the year :)
 
Just finished rub rail down. Used Aqua Buff 1000 & 2000, recommended by a friend and got some for free so thought I would try it out. Also love the dewalt, thanks for the tips and tricks!

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I have a couple of wool bonnets that I’ve used for a couple of years and are cake’y. What do you all do in this situation - just buy another pair or is there a good cleaning method? Last time IIRC I soaked them in dishwashing liquid and it seemed to help. Unfortunately I didn’t clean them after last years polishing. Good ones aren’t cheap.
 
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Blueone said:
What I didn’t like is they didn’t take the stripes off….so you see them under the wrap…don’t like that….actually I didn’t understand wrapping a white boat

Original white hull

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Usually Formula uses Imron paint to put the stripes on their boats. That’s likely the reason they didn’t pull them (because they couldn’t).

I have a friend who had their 320 wrapped probably 8 years ago, still looks really good but they are very ocd about their boats.
 
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