Official Caterpillar3116/3126 Thread

Need help setting up Tool Box for Cat 3126. I am picking my new to me 2000 Sea Ray 410 with Cat 3126 engines in the next week and I want to set up a tool box "just in case" for the 200 mile trip home. Space for the flight to the boat is limited so I am hoping someone can tell me what size sockets and wrenches are needed to work on the 3126. Are they SAE, metric or a combination of both? If anyone knows exactly what sizes are used that would be great.
 
scott1956 said:
Need help setting up Tool Box for Cat 3126. I am picking my new to me 2000 Sea Ray 410 with Cat 3126 engines in the next week and I want to set up a tool box "just in case" for the 200 mile trip home. Space for the flight to the boat is limited so I am hoping someone can tell me what size sockets and wrenches are needed to work on the 3126. Are they SAE, metric or a combination of both? If anyone knows exactly what sizes are used that would be great.
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a bit of a mixture and even some of those reverse torx, but not necessarily on points you would service while on a trip. I’d say you want drivers for the clamps 8mm and 10mm if I recall correctly, something to pull the cover of the impeller (it’s a hex I believe, not positive on size), the impeller puller and a spare impeller, strap wrench for the fuel filters and a couple spare filters, and a few vice grips and adjustable wrenches in case you you had to tighten a fitting or something.
 
scott1956 said:
Need help setting up Tool Box for Cat 3126. I am picking my new to me 2000 Sea Ray 410 with Cat 3126 engines in the next week and I want to set up a tool box "just in case" for the 200 mile trip home. Space for the flight to the boat is limited so I am hoping someone can tell me what size sockets and wrenches are needed to work on the 3126. Are they SAE, metric or a combination of both? If anyone knows exactly what sizes are used that would be great.
Click to expand...
I started a thread on this for your exact same reason.

http://www.clubsearay.com/index.php?threads/which-tool-set-would-you-buy-for-the-boat.108399/

The easy answer is Metric and SAE, from what I have learned. Note I have no first hand knowledge/time with the engines on my boat yet.

I agree with @Strecker25. Make sure you have tools to change out the Racor filters, and know how to. Impellers and belts as well. Spare clamps, and tools for them.

I ordered this today: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07XVPFJ8Z/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Carry some spare fuel to replace them.

Save yourself some time and scroll up and read my posts, and the great replies, regarding my 2001 380DA with 3126 CATs.
 
mrsrobinson said:
I started a thread on this for your exact same reason.

http://www.clubsearay.com/index.php?threads/which-tool-set-would-you-buy-for-the-boat.108399/

The easy answer is Metric and SAE, from what I have learned. Note I have no first hand knowledge/time with the engines on my boat yet.

I agree with @Strecker25. Make sure you have tools to change out the Racor filters, and know how to. Impellers and belts as well. Spare clamps, and tools for them.

I ordered this today: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07XVPFJ8Z/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Carry some spare fuel to replace them.

Save yourself some time and scroll up and read my posts, and the great replies, regarding my 2001 380DA with 3126 CATs.
Click to expand...
I will take a look at your post THANK YOU
Scott
 
I've seen references here to having an assortment of hose clamps on the boat for on the water repairs, especially for the engine raw water side. Having had to do this in the past on my boats I think this is a great idea. I once had a manifold exhaust clamp break under full power, that was fun. Had a fuel cooler clamp break on me once as well while underway.

Not knowing the common sizes on these 3126 cats, can anyone recommend what sizes one might need for on the water repairs?
 
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Here's a cut and paste from Dr. Webster:

"It is much handier to get a 3/4"-16tpi about 1-1/2" long then use a socket/rachet or even better a racheting box end to screw the bolt in the impeller hub and jack the impeller out of the pump housing far enough to grab it."

RWS
 
Just got two impellers ($95.46) and a plastic screw type puller for less than $10 from Marine Direct. Have not had a chance to use it yet but the handle looks to have good leverage.
 
Njlarry said:
Just got two impellers ($95.46) and a plastic screw type puller for less than $10 from Marine Direct. Have not had a chance to use it yet but the handle looks to have good leverage.
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You won’t need any leverage. As you screw the threaded part in, as mentioned above, it will bottom out on the shaft and the impeller will ride up the threads as you continue to screw it in.

Bennett
 
Anyone have any tips on keeping the O-Ring in place when trying to install the cover when replacing the impellers? It has to sit perfectly in the groove in order to seal up, but as soon as I take 9 fingers off it to grab the cover, part of the O-Ring inevitably falls out of the groove and I can't get a good seal.
 
GnrlPatton said:
Anyone have any tips on keeping the O-Ring in place when trying to install the cover when replacing the impellers? It has to sit perfectly in the groove in order to seal up, but as soon as I take 9 fingers off it to grab the cover, part of the O-Ring inevitably falls out of the groove and I can't get a good seal.
Click to expand...

Put it in the groove and put some silicone grease on it to hold it in place.

Bennett
 
GnrlPatton said:
I've got just the pump part that I'm replacing this weekend, so interested in hearing advice on steps get that done.
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I replaced my pumps last weekend, back at the boat now and changing out fuel filters. I got the starboard side replaced and I do get resistance when pumping after a while. No such luck on Port side. I pump and pump and it never gets difficult. I took that pump off and I'm wondering if I put it on correctly. The spring sits in the pump end with the wider end inside the pump. I'm not sure though if the ball inside fits on the other end of the spring and sits in the hole inside the manifold. Anyone know?

16495519528096269392344658403905.jpg

16495519853963393017613837618075.jpg
 
Riptide III said:
Do not bother to buy a puller. You thread a bolt into the end of the impeller and as you tighten the bolt pushes against the shaft. Someone will chime in. I think it’s a 3/4 inch but I don’t remember the pitch
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yes, if the impeller housing has the threads. Sherwood makes both styles one with and one without.
 
Sgrochow said:
yes, if the impeller housing has the threads. Sherwood makes both styles one with and one without.
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Not being a sick, but I think you mean if the impeller has threads not the housing. I have never seen the impeller without the threads
 
A discussion got started on Facebook that has made me curious…these are obviously not wet sleeved engines but one of the guys responding said all Diesel engines are sleeved.

is that true of the 3100? Are they all pressed in dry sleeves? He said cast iron can’t stand up to the compression of Diesel engines

If that’s the case, the whole idea that the 3100 block is throwaway seems incorrect. Even though they’re not wet sleeved, couldn’t a new dry sleeve be pressed in for a rebuild?
 
I'm working off memory here but I think my GFs brother-in-law said no these engines are not sleeved.
 
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