Riser manifold job cost?

The plugs you are referring to in the manifolds are likely tapped with tapered pipe plugs? Those ports are used in full closed cooled systems for returning the coolant. If the raw water is going into the bottom of the manifolds, then there will be passages in the risers for it to pass through to the exhaust making it a wet joint.
 
Many assume this job is a quick unbolt and reinstall for new manifolds and risers. Many times it is, however, I have completed many swaps where the bolt faces are completely rusted which required numerous methods for removal. A 2-4 hr job turns into a a full day for removal and 2-4 hrs for reinstall. It's not the norm but it does happen. Many times shops price out the job expecting the worst which is usually the snow ball effect.
 
Agree with above. I own a service oriented business and my experience are the people who complain about the price rarely have actually done the specific job before. Just my experience. Your results may vary.
 
Espos4 said:
If you can change a tire, you can probably change your own manifolds.

Check out YouTube, I’m sure there’s plenty of videos so you can see what’s involved. Nothing special, just heavy stuff. A second set of hands is a big help.
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Not to debate you, but I disagree on this. If you have to cut bolts, scrape gaskets, especially off of the head, and don't know what you are doing you can mess this job up. I agree with @douglee25 and others here. It's also easy to prep and paint the bottom of a boat, heck I did it in high school for $2.50 when I worked weekends for a marina. Not a job I am going to do now though.

@Eddie B , I have been waiting almost 4 weeks to get the after coolers serviced on my boat. And I still don't know "when" though the mechanic, only when I call him, tells me "this week" every week. Yes, you paid too much, but the work is done and you can go back on the water. Also, be careful how much you doubt/question your mechanic; they will be your bestfriend when you need them. I always paid the bill immediately with a smile and thank you. They are the first ones to get me back on the water the next time I need a repair because of it.
 
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Just ordered a full set of manifolds, risers and 6" spacers (plus new bolts and the t-fitting on the bottom of the manifolds)

Parts alone came in at about 5 bucks for OEM Mercury stuff for both engines :eek:

Now I have to do plugs, wires and a hot water while I have the exhaust stuff out of the way :mad: Maybe I will hold on to the parts til next year :D
 
I'm pricing out riser and manifold parts for my 2004 340 DA (MerCruiser 8.1L Horizon) and I'm getting quotes of ~$8900 for parts and ~$2700 for labor. Give or take a few hundred on labor depending on the local marina.

Double-checking parts prices out on the web I'm finding the same parts prices on some of the top search hits.
Where's the best source for these parts?
 

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pmartin1501 said:
I'm pricing out riser and manifold parts for my 2004 340 DA (MerCruiser 8.1L Horizon) and I'm getting quotes of ~$8900 for parts and ~$2700 for labor. Give or take a few hundred on labor depending on the local marina.

Double-checking parts prices out on the web I'm finding the same parts prices on some of the top search hits.
Where's the best source for these parts?
Click to expand...
Check partsvu after getting the part numbers from mercruiserparts.

Also, there is a kit that includes a bunch of parts at a better price:
Mercury - Exhaust Manifold Conversion Kit - Water Rails to Cast Iron Exhaust Manifolds w/o Water Rails - Fits MCM/MIE 496 Mag & 8.1S Engines - 866178A02

SKU: 866178A02

See if that kit will work for you.

If you have the stainless steel elbows, I have had multiple people tell me that you do not need to change those. I changed them, since they did have rust on them.
 
You do have the stainless elbows, so you might make a decision to keep the old ones. That's up to you. Also, it does look like you can use the conversion kit, which will save you a little money. Price check against partsvu.com
 
That is a good point with buying a kit. You also have to be ready to pull the plug, as inventory situations are all over the place. I was all set to buy a full kit, then the next day it was out of stock. Then when I went to buy individual components, certain places said they were in stock, so I bought them, then the tell me a day or two later that they don't really have those parts and it will be 2-4 weeks :mad:
 
jmauld said:
Check partsvu after getting the part numbers from mercruiserparts.

Also, there is a kit that includes a bunch of parts at a better price:
Mercury - Exhaust Manifold Conversion Kit - Water Rails to Cast Iron Exhaust Manifolds w/o Water Rails - Fits MCM/MIE 496 Mag & 8.1S Engines - 866178A02

SKU: 866178A02

See if that kit will work for you.

If you have the stainless steel elbows, I have had multiple people tell me that you do not need to change those. I changed them, since they did have rust on them.
Click to expand...

Thanks jmauld. I will look into the kit; was suspecting there were kits but it's confusing.
 
pmartin1501 said:
Hey douglee, just processed my order with Nuwave. You were 100% right....amazing place to do business with. I would highly recommend anyone working on a similar project to call Nuwave Marine and work with them.
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Awesome! Glad I could help. I was definitely impressed when I did business with them in the past.
 
pmartin1501 said:
Thanks jmauld. I will look into the kit; was suspecting there were kits but it's confusing.
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Hey @jmauld, thanks again for the tip. I'm able to use my existing SS elbows and just went for the manifold kits. HUGE difference. I will update the post on how the install goes....hoping to get it done next week.
 
Are you planning on doing the work yourself?

If so, pull two of the longer bolts out of one of the manifolds. Cut the heads off of both bolts, and use them as alignment studs for installing the new gasket/manifolds. The manifolds are heavy and difficult to hold in place otherwise.
 
jmauld said:
Are you planning on doing the work yourself?

If so, pull two of the longer bolts out of one of the manifolds. Cut the heads off of both bolts, and use them as alignment studs for installing the new gasket/manifolds. The manifolds are heavy and difficult to hold in place otherwise.
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Yes I am going to do the work myself. It's clearly worth my time.
I've watched all the videos ;) I've got this.
Planning to do exactly as you described in fabricating the guide pins.
 
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