48 DA Owners Club

So couple weeks back noticed a water stain on the port side roof speaker grill in the salon. "Oh-Chit" what now??? Pulled the grill off ever so carefully to find the PO must have know and had a whad of paper towels in there. I knew right then that this is not good. Looked up and found the wiper assembly all rusted. Knowing this would be a mess I just called AM equipment and ordered a new assembly $500 bucks. Took 3 weeks to get but came in and actually very easy to install just a bit of a bitch to get the old one out as they did seal it in pretty good. After further investigation looks like it just broke the seal around the shafts that go through the hull. I guess over time from sealant breakdown and the flexing when you are using the assembly it just slowly started to leak and well you know what happens there. I probably could have saved this one but I felt better just installing a new one. I did save the motor just in case... Anyway I would recommend to everyone to check yours and I will just reseal my starboard side from the outside just to be safe as preventative maint for know.
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juggernaut1 said:
Here’s a couple for sale in Australia at the moment…..crazy prices.

https://www.boatsales.com.au/boats/sea-ray/515-sundancer/
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Holy moly! $895,000 AU is $660k+ USD! May be worth shipping it down under! Locally, they're all in the mid-high $400s. I completely agree with OC....the thought of being without my boat my boat that is completely dialed in and starting fresh all over is depressing and it'd be really tough to replace- unquestionably. May test the waters (no pun intended) just to gauge interest.
 
Sooliman said:
Holy moly! $895,000 AU is $660k+ USD! May be worth shipping it down under! Locally, they're all in the mid-high $400s. I completely agree with OC....the thought of being without my boat my boat that is completely dialed in and starting fresh all over is depressing and it'd be really tough to replace- unquestionably. May test the waters (no pun intended) just to gauge interest.
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In May 2020 I had an offer on an interstate 2008 515 for AUD485K, but the COVID restrictions meant I had to quarantine for a total of 4 weeks, so I let it go. As history shows the prices have gone through the roof. Plenty of other boats I’d rather have at the current prices.

Your 48’s are probably cheaper than the Oz boats because you can only use them for about half the year :p
 
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ocgrant said:
So couple weeks back noticed a water stain on the port side roof speaker grill in the salon. "Oh-Chit" what now??? Pulled the grill off ever so carefully to find the PO must have know and had a whad of paper towels in there. I knew right then that this is not good. Looked up and found the wiper assembly all rusted. Knowing this would be a mess I just called AM equipment and ordered a new assembly $500 bucks. Took 3 weeks to get but came in and actually very easy to install just a bit of a bitch to get the old one out as they did seal it in pretty good. After further investigation looks like it just broke the seal around the shafts that go through the hull. I guess over time from sealant breakdown and the flexing when you are using the assembly it just slowly started to leak and well you know what happens there. I probably could have saved this one but I felt better just installing a new one. I did save the motor just in case... Anyway I would recommend to everyone to check yours and I will just reseal my starboard side from the outside just to be safe as preventative maint for know.
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People are amazing..... throw a wad of paper towels at the problem....that will work
 
Ocgrant
How is that panel to access the wiper motor fastened? Have a wiper that is working intermittently and need to get it open to see what’s up.
 
Has anybody replaced the seals on their vent windows? If so what did you use for the seal and where’d you get it.
 
T-N-T said:
Ocgrant
How is that panel to access the wiper motor fastened? Have a wiper that is working intermittently and need to get it open to see what’s up.
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They are in there with Xmas trees - 4 of them. I use a thin right angle pick tool to slide up and pull straight down to work it out. Real easy....
 
I Like the looks of that seal. I'll give it a try and report back after a water test.
 
On engine fuel filters: Recap

Replaced the spin-on fuel filters yesterday. We ended up using the 5 mm vent cap on the outlet of the housing to bleed the air out. We cycled the switches to activate the fuel pump. It runs for 20 seconds or so then stops. Shut the switch off, and then wait about 10 seconds or so and repeat the steps. If you reactivate the swithc too early, the fuel pump doesn't come on again. The Port engine burped fuel on the 10th cycle and the Starboard engine burped on the 3rd cycle. I found that interesting. The only obvious difference between the two is that the Starboard filter is located at a lower position on the engine. Anyway.....so the pump that was getting cycled, is that the fuel pump or the lift pump? Can someone confirm my suspision that this isn't the pump that generates the crazy pressure in the common rail. Correct?

The plan is to start the engines next week after this (hopefully last) two nights of sub-freezing temperatures. I am considering cycling the switches and fuel pump a few times prior to starting to "pre-prime" the system. Does this sound like a good plan or is it not necessary?

Thanks, as usual, for the great advice.

Jaybeaux
 
Jaybeaux said:
On engine fuel filters: Recap

Replaced the spin-on fuel filters yesterday. We ended up using the 5 mm vent cap on the outlet of the housing to bleed the air out. We cycled the switches to activate the fuel pump. It runs for 20 seconds or so then stops. Shut the switch off, and then wait about 10 seconds or so and repeat the steps. If you reactivate the swithc too early, the fuel pump doesn't come on again. The Port engine burped fuel on the 10th cycle and the Starboard engine burped on the 3rd cycle. I found that interesting. The only obvious difference between the two is that the Starboard filter is located at a lower position on the engine. Anyway.....so the pump that was getting cycled, is that the fuel pump or the lift pump? Can someone confirm my suspision that this isn't the pump that generates the crazy pressure in the common rail. Correct?

The plan is to start the engines next week after this (hopefully last) two nights of sub-freezing temperatures. I am considering cycling the switches and fuel pump a few times prior to starting to "pre-prime" the system. Does this sound like a good plan or is it not necessary?

Thanks, as usual, for the great advice.

Jaybeaux
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Lift pump is what you are cycling. Fuel pump is mechanical. I carry a spare lift pump as I have heard of them failing.
 
Spring Commissioning 2022.....

Did the HVAC the other weekend. Started up no problem. Then we get hit with a weather event that causes water to get blown out of marina coupled with 20 degree temps!

Survived that. Began turning on the fresh water system. Filled tank to about 1/4 full. Turn on spigots. Observe "stink box" and think "why is that so full?" Well, float swithc is stuck....overflowing to next bilge compartment. Time to fix that...might as well clean the stink box while I'm at it.

Coursory check throughout boat for leaks. All good. Take off water heater bypass contraption. Begin filling water heater. Leaking like a MoFo at botb hot water outlets. Begin the Drummel cutting the crimp off and re-doing....a half a pint of blood later, all good. A moving blanket over the thruster batteries works like a champ!

The next hour is spent using the Shop-Vac to pick up all of the water that leak out of the by-pass contraption.

Dock water regulator shoots craps.....no pressure. Like trying to replace the refigeraor light bulb if the door only opens 2 inches. For cripes sake, don't boat engineers ever work on boats?

Can't wait to fire up the Generator and the mains tomorrow. I had the entire raw water train "rehabbed" over the winter.

Jaybeaux
 
Danielle Whah said:
We purchased a 2008 48 Sundancer last fall and are considering installing a Dockmate (https://www.dockmate.us/). Thoughts?

*so excited to get her launched! Hopefully next week! #immeasurablyMORE
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Hi Danielle
Glad you were able to acquire the boat and get her home; congratulations!
I don't have the Dockmate but know several owners that do and they find the system enables more enjoyment and less stress in their boating. From what they tell me there are a host of options you can get from basic drive operation to drive and thrusters to drive, thrusters, and anchor. Those I know get the drive and thruster features. From what I understand they have around $12K invested in the system. A friend on this forum builds a knock-off of this system - you may want to reach out to @Carpediem44DB and pick his brain also.
Tom
 
Jaybeaux said:
On engine fuel filters: Recap

Replaced the spin-on fuel filters yesterday. We ended up using the 5 mm vent cap on the outlet of the housing to bleed the air out. We cycled the switches to activate the fuel pump. It runs for 20 seconds or so then stops. Shut the switch off, and then wait about 10 seconds or so and repeat the steps. If you reactivate the swithc too early, the fuel pump doesn't come on again. The Port engine burped fuel on the 10th cycle and the Starboard engine burped on the 3rd cycle. I found that interesting. The only obvious difference between the two is that the Starboard filter is located at a lower position on the engine. Anyway.....so the pump that was getting cycled, is that the fuel pump or the lift pump? Can someone confirm my suspision that this isn't the pump that generates the crazy pressure in the common rail. Correct?

The plan is to start the engines next week after this (hopefully last) two nights of sub-freezing temperatures. I am considering cycling the switches and fuel pump a few times prior to starting to "pre-prime" the system. Does this sound like a good plan or is it not necessary?

Thanks, as usual, for the great advice.

Jaybeaux
Click to expand...
It certainly cant hurt....probably not necessary though.
 
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