ours have a pin in the slot to keep it in place. Is that not common?
Replacing cutless bearings
- Thread starter dtfeld
- Start date
ours have a pin in the slot to keep it in place. Is that not common?
Many have that little pin, but service technicians tend to shear that pin off when removing the key by driving it up the keyway to get it out. This is the reason when lapping the propeller put an ink mark on the shaft where the propeller laps to. Then when it is installed with the key make sure the propeller returns to that ink mark.
I think about a year ago, maybe two, someone on this forum showed pictures of their sheared shaft right in that area. It was obvious the failure started where the key was incorrectly installed; they kept trying to blame the issue on the shaft material but not the propeller installation.
firecadet613
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- May 10, 2007
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Correct. The shaft key and prop are already off. In theory, it would work. The only concern I would have is if your existing cutlass bearing is frozen in place (as mine was with a 100% freshwater boat), you may damage the new one. I had to have my strut pulled and the old cutlass bearing pressed out with a press on a workbench.
Irie308
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Good point, I guess i could start it with the wedges to see if it moves. If it gives i could switch to the bearing and press it all the way out.
markrsimon
Active Member
Im thinking the total resistance of using the new bearing to push the old out would be significant. Not impossible though.
Pushing the old bearing out is a pain to start given the starting surface area.
Even if you try to chill the new bearing- it will warm up too quickly as you continue to work the old bearing out.
If you have the tool - trying to save a step given the added challenges doesnt seem to be beneficial.
It might take 15-20 to get the old bearing out, and maybe 5-7 to get the new one in.
Pushing the old bearing out is a pain to start given the starting surface area.
Even if you try to chill the new bearing- it will warm up too quickly as you continue to work the old bearing out.
If you have the tool - trying to save a step given the added challenges doesnt seem to be beneficial.
It might take 15-20 to get the old bearing out, and maybe 5-7 to get the new one in.
GnrlPatton
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Totally agree with this. When installing the new, I put mine in the freezer for about an hour and also smeared it with Dawn dish soap prior to installing. Doing that, they slid right in. Removing the old ones was much more difficult and took considerably more time, so the new ones would have warmed back up and made them more difficult to install had I tried the OPs proposed approach.
- Jun 2, 2008
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The biggest obstacle was finding the set screws and backing them out...
Skybolt
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The Strut Pro is an awesome tool and have used it many times. Definitely should use it to put the bearing back in as well. Also consider using an impact gun, makes the job go quicker. Also heating up the strut aids in getting it in/out.
One trick to keep in mind when putting the prop back on. Put the prop in place without the key in place and mark the shaft in front of the prop with a pencil. This tells you how far up the shaft the prop should be and allows you to see if the key moved and is stopping the prop from seating right. As mentioned that pin is not always there or snaps off at times, sometimes it is more difficult to use the pin.
One trick to keep in mind when putting the prop back on. Put the prop in place without the key in place and mark the shaft in front of the prop with a pencil. This tells you how far up the shaft the prop should be and allows you to see if the key moved and is stopping the prop from seating right. As mentioned that pin is not always there or snaps off at times, sometimes it is more difficult to use the pin.
Irie308
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All good insights. Definitely don't want to make my task harder than it needs to be especially seeing the condition of some of these removed bearings.
Last edited:
- Jun 5, 2016
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I agree!!!
I only found the one set screw on the first one and it was a B**CH to get that one out.One other reasons to pull the old bearing out separately, I chased the set screew threads with a tap to clean up the threads that were full of bottom paint and marine growth.
Irie308
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+1 on those damned set screws! For anyone thinking of tackling this job there are definitely at least 2 set screws! If you find 1 seek out the other. Tackled this today and the remaining set screw made it a bear to come out. The other pia is the shims that push out the bearing bottoms out about 1 inch from finishing the job. Other than that the tool works. Took about 4 hrs to just get one removed. Hoping by finding the second screw the next side will come out easier.
GnrlPatton
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I had forgotten about that, happened on mine as well. The yard let me use a big pipe wrench and I was able to wiggle them back and forth to get that last inch done.
speakrdude
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I didn’t realize you can replace the struts without removing the prop shaft.
Game changer!
Game changer!
speakrdude
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Just watched the video. Pretty straight forward. If I determine I need to replace my struts, could I rent/borrow someone’s tool?
In exchange, I could lend someone my Scantool for Mercruiser ECM’s.
My boat, 2002 340 Sundancer, sits on a 22,000 lb lift. I’m thinking I may be able to do this on the lift!
In exchange, I could lend someone my Scantool for Mercruiser ECM’s.
My boat, 2002 340 Sundancer, sits on a 22,000 lb lift. I’m thinking I may be able to do this on the lift!
I’m happy to rent out my tool but we have 1.75” collars so you’d have to order the correct size for your boat. Someone else might have a strutpro with the correct size
speakrdude
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That’s awesome!
Thank you
Thank you
Irie308
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Finished up my strut replacement today and thank god it’s done! Don’t think I would tackle that again. Removed both set screws and everything was progressing fine then 1/2 way out all of a sudden one of the threaded rods bound up and would not budge. Put it on the bench and still couldn’t remove it. Ended up cutting the head off one of the nuts and used that to finish the job. That worked fine to get the remaining half of the bearing out but it made the rod too short to push the new bearing in. Ended up using a set of threaded rods from Home Depot with a set of bolts to push the new bearing in. So all in all it was an 8-9 hour job. Lessons learned? Find all set screws and use plenty of anti seize on the threaded rods. The up side is the new bearings speed the shaft like butter.
Noticed that the bearings in both sides had a much flatter side than the other. Not sure if it’s how it sat with the shaft in it since haul out but planning to check shaft alignment when back in the water.
Noticed that the bearings in both sides had a much flatter side than the other. Not sure if it’s how it sat with the shaft in it since haul out but planning to check shaft alignment when back in the water.
i laughed off the instructions on using the thread lube until I starting pressing the bearing out and realized how important it is. If you don’t use the antiseize/thread lube they gall up and the threads lock. Luckily I caught it before mine completely seized but now there’s a 1/2” section on my threaded rods that requires a little extra torque to get through
Njlarry
Well-Known Member
That is how it is often done with home made pullers. If the shaft is out, I have also read some people use a sawzall to first cut thru the old bearing as some scoring of the strut should not be a concern?
Note I have not yet done a cutless so have no experience. I just came across this thread and glad you got yours finished ok.
markrsimon
Active Member
Since the bearing does not spin - any scoring should not have an effect on it. I have heard though, make the cut at the top, where there is much more strut material. Any cut along the thinner sides/bottom edges can weaken the structure.
