ACR Search Light LED Retrofit?

In doing some research on the LED lamps I can't find anything that has a narrow beam angle to replicate the beam angle the halogen system has. Most all of the high lumen LED's are for spreader type lighting.
The lamp is listed as having a 30 degree spread. While that's obviously not focused beam material, they also list them as producing 3600 lumens. A standard 60w incandescent bulb will only put out around 800 lumens, whereas the LEDs 3600 lumens is on par with a 200w incandescent. That should take care of the light being spread out more.
 
Great. I was fine with my light until I start reading all this led upgrade crap. Now I’m going to have to see how bright mine really is. Thanks.
LOL... my lights arrive from ebay next week. I plan to go to the boat in the dark and test this side by side before I go though installing this in my spare housing.
 
I have zero experience with these.

The mechanism AND light are both NFG on my 450.

Was going to toss the whole thing till I saw this thread.

Other than the bulb, what are the other causes of failure, and does this improve with these repairs?

BEST!

RWS
 
My lights just arrived… Just connected to a 12v battery and did the driveway test. Definitely a nice beam. Shoots across the street and lights my neighbors fence good.

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I have zero experience with these.

The mechanism AND light are both NFG on my 450.

my gears were striped I just replaced them. The bulbs are stock halogen. They do fail.
Was going to toss the whole thing till I saw this thread.

Other than the bulb, what are the other causes of failure, and does this improve with these repairs?

BEST!

RWS
 
I have zero experience with these.

The mechanism AND light are both NFG on my 450.

Was going to toss the whole thing till I saw this thread.

Other than the bulb, what are the other causes of failure, and does this improve with these repairs?

BEST!

RWS

They need to be exercised on a regular basis. Full up and down and rotation. I did that every couple of weeks and never had a problem.
 
Ok got started today on this. Bracket modification is easy, remove rivits and drill out for countersink M6-1.0 x 20mm. Clearance is tight when you slide the rig back in the housing so countersink is a must to get the clearance on the pivit bolt. The BakeLite bulb holder is key to this. Bakelite is brittle and cracks like ceramic so I decided to use my bench mounted blt sander to get the clearance I needed to get the assembly down to size based on the pic provided by Saverio. I am working from scrap parts of a light assembly so I don't have the motor right now to mount and get gear lash set. I ordered another on amazon as I am going to build this rig on the bench and then drop it in my housing on the boat currently. What I was not crazy about was the zip tie mounting to hold the bakelite rig to the light. I wanted to see what I could do to give me a more secure mount. I looked how the bakelite assembly was designed to clamp down on the ceramic light bulb holders and that gave me an idea to use a couple pieces of .250 aluminum stock that fits into the center fin of the light perfectly leaving a little space for a little epoxy to bond it to the light assembly. I used some additional aluminum to make a jig to hold everything in place to pour the epoxy in place and hold the tabs in perfect position. Next after the epoxy dries and I get the motor I ordered I can install the motor on the bracket, drop the light and bakelite assembly in and set the gear mess. Once I get it where I want I will use the original clamping hole on the bakelite to drill and pin the assembly to the light locking the gear mess in place. I am pretty confident this will work well and was easy to fabricate with simple tools in a few hours. I am out of town this week headed to Texas but hope to find some time next weekend to finish up and bench test. Here is a few pics of the progress... Big shout out to Saverio for his contribution to get this going.
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So got it all assembled and installed. Works great but will say I lost a little up and down travel due to the light assemble pivoting so far forward and hitting the front cover. If I get access to a mill in the near future I may make some offset pivot brackets to move the light assembly back a little bit to give more pivot space. But I never find myself pivoting up or down that much anyway and what it does do now is fine for me. It is really bright and "spots" well. Fired it up last night when we got back from dinner on the river to wake up the neighbors. They came out and tough the police were looking for someone....LOL Overall I am very happy and will start on version 2.0 soon for my buddies boat.

upload_2022-3-20_16-50-44.png
 
Ocgrant

awesome job with the aluminum tabs. It looks great. I put my boat in yesterday and going to test it one night. I had the same issue with the pivinting of the light full up. but no biggie

i'm so glad this cheap fixed work. My light only goes on when i hit the button on the right of the controller not the left.

Saverio



Ok got started today on this. Bracket modification is easy, remove rivits and drill out for countersink M6-1.0 x 20mm. Clearance is tight when you slide the rig back in the housing so countersink is a must to get the clearance on the pivit bolt. The BakeLite bulb holder is key to this. Bakelite is brittle and cracks like ceramic so I decided to use my bench mounted blt sander to get the clearance I needed to get the assembly down to size based on the pic provided by Saverio. I am working from scrap parts of a light assembly so I don't have the motor right now to mount and get gear lash set. I ordered another on amazon as I am going to build this rig on the bench and then drop it in my housing on the boat currently. What I was not crazy about was the zip tie mounting to hold the bakelite rig to the light. I wanted to see what I could do to give me a more secure mount. I looked how the bakelite assembly was designed to clamp down on the ceramic light bulb holders and that gave me an idea to use a couple pieces of .250 aluminum stock that fits into the center fin of the light perfectly leaving a little space for a little epoxy to bond it to the light assembly. I used some additional aluminum to make a jig to hold everything in place to pour the epoxy in place and hold the tabs in perfect position. Next after the epoxy dries and I get the motor I ordered I can install the motor on the bracket, drop the light and bakelite assembly in and set the gear mess. Once I get it where I want I will use the original clamping hole on the bakelite to drill and pin the assembly to the light locking the gear mess in place. I am pretty confident this will work well and was easy to fabricate with simple tools in a few hours. I am out of town this week headed to Texas but hope to find some time next weekend to finish up and bench test. Here is a few pics of the progress... Big shout out to Saverio for his contribution to get this going.
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