48 DA Owners Club

PAPA G said:
Installed extension on helm seat, eliminates view problem.
Never piloted a 55. 48’ is more than enough for wife and I.
My marina can barely handle my 48. Now factor in the extra $ and you got a 480
Click to expand...

Got to agree with you. The 48 overall is the better choice when you factor fuel, slip fees, slip accommodations and so forth. In fact, I was scouring the east coast looking for a 48 when I came across my 55 for sale. The broker made me a deal I couldn't refuse. literally. I went to look at it just to do that. To look and actually stand on one. I had no intention whatsoever of buying it. And I told the Broker ahead of time that. But talking about how great a 55 is in no way bashes the 48. I still stare at the 48 across the marina from me. I'll move back to a 48 one day but for now, I'm enjoying the 55. I think the one thing that I never realized the most is how high the helm floor is off the water on a 55 when compared to a 48. I literally am almost eye to eye with my friends when I am in my helm and they are on their fly bridges. And then couple that with the "nose down" design of the 55 and your view from the helm is over the top of the front railings. You still have to move the helm seat to one of it's highest positions though. Boat will run 36 mph top speed. I have the 3 stateroom version too. It leaves me so much more room for "activities". Pun.
 
Last edited:
Morgan Jane said:
Got to agree with you. The 48 overall is the better choice when you factor fuel, slip fees, slip accommodations and so forth. In fact, I was scouring the east coast looking for a 48 when I came across my 55 for sale. The broker made me a deal I couldn't refuse. literally. I went to look at it just to do that. To look and actually stand on one. I had no intention whatsoever of buying it. And I told the Broker ahead of time that. But talking about how great a 55 is in know way bashes the 48. I still stare at the 48 across the marina from me. I'll move back to a 48 one day but for now, I'm enjoying the 55. I think the one thing that I never realized the most is how high the helm floor is off the water on a 55 when compared to a 48. I literally am almost eye to eye with my friends when I am in my helm and they are on their fly bridges. And then couple that with the "nose down" design of the 55 and your view from the helm is over the top of the front railings. You still have to move the helm seat to one of it's highest positions though. Boat will run 36 mph top speed. I have the 3 stateroom version too. It leaves me so much more room for "activities". Pun.
Click to expand...
I have never been in a 55, will to see one
 
I brought my cockpit table home to refinish the teak. It was in pretty bad shape. Towards the end of the season, I was finding black pieces on the table. It was the caulk that had deteriorated and coming off. If you rubbed it between your fingers, it smeared into black dust. Some of the pieces of teak were starting to pop up. There were noticable ridges between pieces. This is the best "before" picture I could find as I forgot to take one before I started the project:
Before.jpg

If you zoom in you will see missing caulk, open cracks, stains. The first thing I did was buy my caulk (https://www.jamestowndistributors.c...qbBX6abUlWOW4oAoKWnvX35_80-a-8kBwmlu4aArtqEAL w_wcB) and a reefing hook (https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/product/product-detail/51859) which made removing the old caulk very easy.

I then sanded the top and discovered that four pieces of the trim were coming up. So I removed them, cleaned up the surfaces, and reaffixed to the table using Locktite Sealing Caulk.
Gluing.jpg


Time for the caulk. I taped up the straight runs on the sides to make things easier but decided to leave the rounded corners untaped and just deal with it later. Caulking was really quite easy. It's OK to be generous with it as you follow with a flexible putty knife to push the caulk down into the seams. Before the caulk totally dries, you can scrape up the excess with a putty knife or similar to reduce sanding. Although, the caulk sands off of the wood fairly easyily.
Caulking.jpg


The recommendation is to allow 48 hours for the caulk to completely cure. Then the sanding begins. I was using 60 grit and some 50 grit on a palm sander. I finished up with 80 grit, and then lastly 150 grit.
Sand1.jpg

The last step was to clean off the excess on the white gel coat. I found that Mineral Spirits worked best. I also used a plastic scraper to shape the edge. It is not perfect but I am pretty pleased with the results!
Sand3.jpg


Jaybeaux
 

Attachments

  • Sand2.jpg
    Sand2.jpg
    212.2 KB · Views: 68
Nice job… I would put some Semco teak sealer on it to avoid stains
 
Jaybeaux said:
I brought my cockpit table home to refinish the teak. It was in pretty bad shape. Towards the end of the season, I was finding black pieces on the table. It was the caulk that had deteriorated and coming off. If you rubbed it between your fingers, it smeared into black dust. Some of the pieces of teak were starting to pop up. There were noticable ridges between pieces. This is the best "before" picture I could find as I forgot to take one before I started the project:View attachment 116966
If you zoom in you will see missing caulk, open cracks, stains. The first thing I did was buy my caulk (https://www.jamestowndistributors.c...qbBX6abUlWOW4oAoKWnvX35_80-a-8kBwmlu4aArtqEAL w_wcB) and a reefing hook (https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/product/product-detail/51859) which made removing the old caulk very easy.

I then sanded the top and discovered that four pieces of the trim were coming up. So I removed them, cleaned up the surfaces, and reaffixed to the table using Locktite Sealing Caulk. View attachment 116986

Time for the caulk. I taped up the straight runs on the sides to make things easier but decided to leave the rounded corners untaped and just deal with it later. Caulking was really quite easy. It's OK to be generous with it as you follow with a flexible putty knife to push the caulk down into the seams. Before the caulk totally dries, you can scrape up the excess with a putty knife or similar to reduce sanding. Although, the caulk sands off of the wood fairly easyily. View attachment 116987

The recommendation is to allow 48 hours for the caulk to completely cure. Then the sanding begins. I was using 60 grit and some 50 grit on a palm sander. I finished up with 80 grit, and then lastly 150 grit.View attachment 116988
The last step was to clean off the excess on the white gel coat. I found that Mineral Spirits worked best. I also used a plastic scraper to shape the edge. It is not perfect but I am pretty pleased with the results!View attachment 116992

Jaybeaux
Click to expand...
Who are you people??....If I have saw dust on my pants or heaven for bid a leaf stuck to my sock and walk in the kitchen from outside…… I am banished to the basement until I smarten up. Here you are doing a full on table restoration 2' from the stove. unbelievable.... I am surprised you went outside to sand :)

Nice job by the way
 
Last edited:
Morgan Jane said:
I'd have to argue you with you on the finest hull Sea Ray ever built. 55 Sundancer to me is the greatest boat they ever made period. I loved my 48. But the 55 is hard to describe. I think the most amazing thing is the bow rise when getting on plane. Virtually none. It just rises vertically out of the water and you aren't looking thru the front railing ever. Like I say, the 48 is an amazing boat. The just took the best parts of the 48, stretched it 10 feet longer and 2 feet wider and Bam, you have a 55. LOL. Okay guys, lay it on me. Tear me a new one.
Click to expand...
I will say that is the exact same thing my brother said about the 55. The bow rise is just ...none. Pretty much one of the only boats I would trade my 48 for.
 
Jaybeaux said:
I brought my cockpit table home to refinish the teak. It was in pretty bad shape. Towards the end of the season, I was finding black pieces on the table. It was the caulk that had deteriorated and coming off. If you rubbed it between your fingers, it smeared into black dust. Some of the pieces of teak were starting to pop up. There were noticable ridges between pieces. This is the best "before" picture I could find as I forgot to take one before I started the project:View attachment 116966
If you zoom in you will see missing caulk, open cracks, stains. The first thing I did was buy my caulk (https://www.jamestowndistributors.c...qbBX6abUlWOW4oAoKWnvX35_80-a-8kBwmlu4aArtqEAL w_wcB) and a reefing hook (https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/product/product-detail/51859) which made removing the old caulk very easy.

I then sanded the top and discovered that four pieces of the trim were coming up. So I removed them, cleaned up the surfaces, and reaffixed to the table using Locktite Sealing Caulk. View attachment 116986

Time for the caulk. I taped up the straight runs on the sides to make things easier but decided to leave the rounded corners untaped and just deal with it later. Caulking was really quite easy. It's OK to be generous with it as you follow with a flexible putty knife to push the caulk down into the seams. Before the caulk totally dries, you can scrape up the excess with a putty knife or similar to reduce sanding. Although, the caulk sands off of the wood fairly easyily. View attachment 116987

The recommendation is to allow 48 hours for the caulk to completely cure. Then the sanding begins. I was using 60 grit and some 50 grit on a palm sander. I finished up with 80 grit, and then lastly 150 grit.View attachment 116988
The last step was to clean off the excess on the white gel coat. I found that Mineral Spirits worked best. I also used a plastic scraper to shape the edge. It is not perfect but I am pretty pleased with the results!View attachment 116992

Jaybeaux
Click to expand...
Wow that came out great!!! I just got inspired to do mine thanks for the post.
 
@rodrigoroa Thanks! Don’t be shy with the caulk. Spread it down in the "cracks" and get the seam the way you want it to look. The excess is easily cleaned up. I fretted a bit about the excess and I have one or two small imperfections. No one but me will ever see them. Taping off the fiberglass edges was a real plus. Get that joint really smooth. Use your finger, then remove the tape before the caulk sets up too much. Good luck. If I can do it, it should be a cake-walk for you.

Jaybeaux
 
Last edited:
Third post for me. I found a source for the exhaust flaps for a 48
Marine Town www.marinetown.com Part # 9205770-1
Phone # 352-5641150
Very nice people

Also has anyone tried rerouting the galley drain through the hull side to keep the gunk out of the sump box ?
 
Interesting you asked about this Opie. I routed the galley drain thru the hull side yesterday. Still need to clean up a few things, but here's how it's looking so far:
047915CB-26E0-4B50-9EC8-45FA42D88CCB.jpeg

4745951E-341E-435E-B9BB-ECFFFAAE0AE2.jpeg

91FCFE18-4C58-470E-86DD-41B32C0A2058.jpeg
 
Sooliman said:
That’s a serious drain! No food particles getting help up in that opening. Looks good and far enough above the water line I’m guessing to have any potential issues.
Click to expand...

Thanks, and that's one of the reasons for locating it where I did. The other was keep the P-trap just in case something got dropped down the drain, and the fact my wife wouldn't be pleased if I left a potential spider hole in the side of the boat.

-Tom
 
Last edited:
TNT8808 said:
Thanks, and that's one of the reasons for locating it where I did. The other was keep the P-trap just in case something got dropped down the drain, and the fact my wife would wouldn't be pleased if I left a potential spider hole in the side of the boat.

-Tom
Click to expand...
TNT8808 said:
Interesting you asked about this Opie. I routed the galley drain thru the hull side yesterday. Still need to clean up a few things, but here's how it's looking so far:
View attachment 117247
View attachment 117248
View attachment 117249
Click to expand...
I like it... Parts list? Where did you get the through hull?
 
TNT8808 said:
Thanks, and that's one of the reasons for locating it where I did. The other was keep the P-trap just in case something got dropped down the drain, and the fact my wife wouldn't be pleased if I left a potential spider hole in the side of the boat.

-Tom
Click to expand...
I like the drip collar idea… very cool if that works
 
Wifey approved and requested to be moved to the top of the to do list after the macaroni in the sump situation…. Amazon order placed.
 
TNT8808 said:
Interesting you asked about this Opie. I routed the galley drain thru the hull side yesterday. Still need to clean up a few things, but here's how it's looking so far:
View attachment 117247
View attachment 117248
View attachment 117249
Click to expand...

Very nice job! Just Whipped out a hole saw and did it. I like the positive attitude. I have wanted to do the same thing for a good while. Just don't have the Balls to drill hole in the side of my boat. My question to all is that why didn't Sea Ray just do it this way in the first place? Anyone got any logic as to why not? Just seems like it totally makes sense to have done it this way day one.
 
Morgan Jane said:
Very nice job! Just Whipped out a hole saw and did it. I like the positive attitude. I have wanted to do the same thing for a good while. Just don't have the Balls to drill hole in the side of my boat. My question to all is that why didn't Sea Ray just do it this way in the first place? Anyone got any logic as to why not? Just seems like it totally makes sense to have done it this way day one.
Click to expand...

i measured too many times to remember, and moved my mark several times before finally taking the plunge and drilling that hole. No idea why Sea Ray didn't do this at the factory.
 
Merry Christmas everyone!

Not to be a downer on this special day, but we just got word that a second friend of ours has had a stroke at age 58 +/-. The first person was about 6 weeks ago at age 57. Today is a gift, tomorrow is unknown.

Along those lines, I may do the electronics upgrade on our 2006 Sea Ray 48 sooner rather than later. Life is too short. I am partial to Garmin, but I love what @ocgrant did with those Raymarine gs165's. The "all glass look". So my question for the Garmin crowed is what is the largest Garmin MFD (8600 series) that you can fit on the dash of the 48? Two 12" displays or will two 16" displays work?

Thanks for all that everyone does on this thread. It is only 80 days til March 15, 2022!

Jaybeaux
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Forum statistics

Threads
113,112
Messages
1,426,288
Members
61,026
Latest member
NeilS
Back
Top