300 Sundancer questions.

I often read something that says "make sure there is water in the HW tank before turning it on". Having never had HW on any previous boats, this is new to me. Doesn't the water in the FW tank automatically refill the HW?
If the tank has been drained down for any reason (usually for winterizing), you have to purge all of the air out by opening at least one HW tap and running the FW pump until all of the air is purged out. Failing to do that could lead to a heating element being exposed and almost instantly burning out, as it isn't surrounded by water to draw off the heat. Really no different than running your engine on the hard without a water muff.
 
Thanks Nate. I opened both HW and FW faucets with the pump on for winterizing. When they started to spit air, I shut them down, added pink and repeated the process until I got pink from all faucets. My question is, as hot water is used, does it automatically refill from the FW tank, provided that ample water is in the FW tank?
 
Did you add pink to the FW holding tank? If so, and your HW tank is still plumbed in, then it should refill.
 
Thanks Nate. I opened both HW and FW faucets with the pump on for winterizing. When they started to spit air, I shut them down, added pink and repeated the process until I got pink from all faucets. My question is, as hot water is used, does it automatically refill from the FW tank, provided that ample water is in the FW tank?
It does refill automatically, but, since it's pressure-driven by the FW pump, if there's much air in there, you'll need to make sure you get an air-free stream before powering it up. That, and you really don't want to be heating the antifreeze, as it tends to make it that much harder to get the taste out of the system.
 
got it! thanks.
It would have helped if I had re-read your post. Yes, the water heater does automatically fill from the fresh water pump, just as it would in an R/V or your home. Am I getting way too repetitive here? Maybe time to put myself to bed...
 
I know this is off the canvas subject, but I often go back a few to see what I may have missed. On the subject of HW/ FW tanks, I have a 5 or 6 gal Electric HW tank a 40 gal FW tank on my 86 300 Dancer. I often read something that says "make sure there is water in the HW tank before turning it on". Having never had HW on any previous boats, this is new to me. Doesn't the water in the FW tank automatically refill the HW? I Just bought the boat last fall and have not had a lot of time to learn. The prior owner (a boat club member) passed away and his wife knew nothing about the boats function. When winterizing this fall, I opened the drain valve at the bottom of the HW tank, OPENED ALL FAUCETS, then poured in about 6 gal of pink, opened faucets until pink flowed.
if you are heating using electric you want water in the tank to not burn up the coils. If you are using the engine heat exchanger it wont matter. Anyway yes if the valves are open your FW tank will automatically fill the HW tank
 
For my fellow 300-bros (2nd gen) ...

I just got my OEM canvas camper top from GLBT (through KevinC). I am replacing an aftermarket canvas with this OEM one (which is awesome by the way).

There's a couple differences so I just wanted to confirm.

The new one has an Isinglass rear window on the camper back, but my old one had a window plus a zipper door (above the transom door).

And this new one has zipper panels on the side with screens AND isinglass whereas the old one just has isinglass on the sides.

Is this normal?


Sounds normal and like my factory camper setup. Screens in the rear side panels, only isinglass in the rear panel. 05 300
 
Sounds normal and like my factory camper setup. Screens in the rear side panels, only isinglass in the rear panel. 05 300

Great thanks for confirming! Have you ever kept the full camper up when underway? I haven't but several people at the marina seem to do this when it's cold.
 
Great thanks for confirming! Have you ever kept the full camper up when underway? I haven't but several people at the marina seem to do this when it's cold.

Other than hard to see out the back, up during the cold and down when it's warm. And the vent window open to keep gasses flowing out.
 
I have clear glass in the center rear for better vision, particularly when backing up. The rear sides are screened for ventilation. You lose a little privacy but save it until sundown;)
 
I do not like the factory camper. Huge blind spot to either aft port or starboard while backing up.
Will have a local canvas guy redo and isinglass all around.
 

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That is horrible. Even my 92 canvas isn't that bad and I thought it was. At least you have good spot to start out with.
 

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I do not like the factory camper. Huge blind spot to either aft port or starboard while backing up.
Will have a local canvas guy redo and isinglass all around.

Thanks for confirming. I never used the old (custom) one underway -- it was only up at the slip. But it had much bigger windows and a zipper door above the transom door:

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Well wish me luck. I just picked up an outdrive jack from Stumpy's (which is awesome, by the way) so I can do both B3's in the spring.
Good luck Phil. I wont even try taking my outdrives off. Too old for that:confused::confused:. I am going to try oiling my upper shift cables like Nater Potater did. I saw this device on YouTube, I believe called a Motion Pro V3, for oiling the lower cables. My only question is if the lube they use is heavy enough. It comes in a can like WD40. So, come spring, I'm gonna need more than luck. I'll need prayer.
 

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Good luck Phil. I wont even try taking my outdrives off. Too old for that:confused::confused:. I am going to try oiling my upper shift cables like Nater Potater did. I saw this device on YouTube, I believe called a Motion Pro V3, for oiling the lower cables. My only question is if the lube they use is heavy enough. It comes in a can like WD40. So, come spring, I'm gonna need more than luck. I'll need prayer.

Well, let's see how the job goes. It could be a one-and-done for me! Actually if it's bad enough I might start leaning towards outboards :eek:

Just noticed (after haul) that the stbd side skeg is broken. Here is last year:

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And now, there's a different profile to the bottom. It looks like there's a piece missing but it's a nice smooth curve to it o_O

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