1999 230 BR hull design

1990dtgl98

Member
Sep 21, 2020
37
Boat Info
1999 bowrider
Engines
Mercruiser
So I noticed the hull on my 1999 Sea Ray 230 signature has a definite "wave" to it. I was just curious if this was a hull design or if they may be an underlying moisure/stringer issue? My parents sold a 28' albemarle that the stringers were shot on (found during a survey) and now I'm a bit gun shy.

They're right at the bunks where the wave starts (which is why I was concerned) as well as the stakes having damage/cracks in portions (some of which look repaired).
 

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Is this the waviness you were asking about in regards to the "bunks" in your other thread? I responded there but was only focusing on your question of the bunks. I see what you mean, here. First, no, that doesn't concern me at all. Hulls do have some flex to them and I see this all the time when they're on indoor cradles. It just depends on where the support is compared to stringers and bulkheads. It's not permanent. In this case, as I eluded to in the other thread, this is due to the "price point" trailer and only having one set of bunks. A second set, further inboard, would be a good idea. Also as I mentioned in the other thread... you need to check the capacity of trailer vs the boat.
 
Are you just looking at the photos? Or do you see it looking with your eye on the hull?

The first photo has the wave in the strake. The second photo shows no wave in that same strake. Cameras can distort things and make you see something that isn't really there.

I have a 19' boat on a roller trailer. Between the stern rollers and the next set forward, there is a point where the hull dips a little down. Like there is a lot of weight in that area. If we roll the boat off the trailer at the ramp, you can see that dip flatten out after it comes off. They can move.
 
Is this the waviness you were asking about in regards to the "bunks" in your other thread? I responded there but was only focusing on your question of the bunks. I see what you mean, here. First, no, that doesn't concern me at all. Hulls do have some flex to them and I see this all the time when they're on indoor cradles. It just depends on where the support is compared to stringers and bulkheads. It's not permanent. In this case, as I eluded to in the other thread, this is due to the "price point" trailer and only having one set of bunks. A second set, further inboard, would be a good idea. Also as I mentioned in the other thread... you need to check the capacity of trailer vs the boat.

That post was specifically for the bunks. I wasn't sure if there was an issue with having such a long bunk run with 2 supports (and the bunks themselves having a wave).

This post was more about the hull itself. From the end of the bunk there is a definite pronounced wave in the hull and strikes. I wasn't sure if it was some hull design, flex, or if I needed to be concerned about rotting stringers.

Like I said, I'm not new to boats, but after my dad's survey im kinda 'sensitive' to issues.

Are you just looking at the photos? Or do you see it looking with your eye on the hull?

The first photo has the wave in the strake. The second photo shows no wave in that same strake. Cameras can distort things and make you see something that isn't really there.

I have a 19' boat on a roller trailer. Between the stern rollers and the next set forward, there is a point where the hull dips a little down. Like there is a lot of weight in that area. If we roll the boat off the trailer at the ramp, you can see that dip flatten out after it comes off. They can move.

It's there to the eye too....I read they can flex. Wasn't sure if that was an underlying issue, a concern if it's on a trailer not moved for 6 months during the winter, or completely fine.
 
Here's some better pictures of what I was talking about, as well as some of the strake cracks I noticed.
 

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Since you only have the one bunk, I would float the boat and put a longer bunk on the trailer. Longer as in go all the way to the transom. That's a lot of weight hanging.

The strakes could have been damaged by a hard grounding too. And not the trailer issues.
 
Agree with all the way to the transom and needs to be beefier as well, like more than a 2x4 from what it looks like. I'd use a 4x6
 
Agree with all the way to the transom and needs to be beefier as well, like more than a 2x4 from what it looks like. I'd use a 4x6

Wouldn't that be a given? But glad you mentioned it.

Maybe use the originals for the keel support. Just a thought.
 
Not too worried about those little holes/cracks in the gel. Put that further down on your "to do" list.

However, looking at these newer pictures, I see a hook developing at the stern. Sea Ray's have extremely strong hulls and you really don't see this much. But it appears the bunks end a decent distance from the transom and with all the weight back there and a (possibly) inferior trailer... certainly not setup correctly... that's a lot of stress back there. They should never end shy of the transom. Once a better bunk setup is made, the hook may correct itself. But this should be #1 on your to do list -- and ASAP.

Note that this is different than what I mentioned in post #2 since the first two pictures showed a different issue.

It would still be good to know if the trailer is correct for this boat before you start doing any modifications.
 
Mine has 6 bunks total. Two at the keel. Two at the mid section. And two at the transom. This is around 9000lbs. I can see two at the keel and two running mid through the transom for yours. You mention sitting for 6 years on this trailer? Some good heat will make it sag a little and over time cause it to do so more. But it's not the end of the world as it will right it's self with the proper setup. And it might just be that the weight pushing down and isn't a little heat soak caused.

A proper trailer with the proper setup and adjusted is the best way to go. Knowing that not everybody can jump out and just buy a new trailer that is proper, is real. But getting the lumber and making your current trailer can be had with not much money. Mine is adjustable for my boat, but is far from made for my boat. I feel the key is to at least make what you have work as soon as you can.

20201123_164452.jpg You can see the two transom bunks just below the trim tabs. Those are 4"X6"X4' bunks. The keel and mid bunks are the same boards but the keel is 24' and the mids are 15' Our roller trailer for the 19' boat has the rollers about the mid section also. And the rollers rest about 1" from the end of the hull.

Edited for bunk size. I had to run out and look to be sure.
 
I would correct this immediately before the Hull is ruined completely. The weight of the boat is heaviest at the keel and there is no support there. Looks like it has been this way for some time. Longer bunks and wider bunks will help tremendously. I imagine this flaw is already affecting the boat’s performance.

Also, be careful with those slicks on the bunks. I have seen more than one boat land on the concrete ramp with those things.
 
1990,

I have owned my ‘99 230BR since new. It also has a “wave” similar to yours along the aft outboard strakes. The bunks are flush with the transom. FYI, I have a Load Rite trailer with a capacity of 5400 lbs and 7000 lbs GVW - trailer weighs 1600 lbs. Our dealer used this trailer for the 230 BRs and 240 SDs.
 
However, looking at these newer pictures, I see a hook developing at the stern. Sea Ray's have extremely strong hulls and you really don't see this much. But it appears the bunks end a decent distance from the transom and with all the weight back there and a (possibly) inferior trailer... certainly not setup correctly... that's a lot of stress back there. They should never end shy of the transom. Once a better bunk setup is made, the hook may correct itself. But this should be #1 on your to do list -- and ASAP.

Note that this is different than what I mentioned in post #2 since the first two pictures showed a different issue.

It would still be good to know if the trailer is correct for this boat before you start doing any modifications.

Title has the gvwr of the trailer as 5500lbs. The bunks go directly to the end of the hull. I'll include an old picture I have as im away hunting through Tuesday and don't have anything clearer for right now.

I would correct this immediately before the Hull is ruined completely. The weight of the boat is heaviest at the keel and there is no support there. Looks like it has been this way for some time. Longer bunks and wider bunks will help tremendously. I imagine this flaw is already affecting the boat’s performance.

Also, be careful with those slicks on the bunks. I have seen more than one boat land on the concrete ramp with those things.

The bunks are probably 3x5 and 8 foot long....might be a bit deceiving in pictures.THey don't look like a "standard" size but they're more than 2x4s


1990,

I have owned my ‘99 230BR since new. It also has a “wave” similar to yours along the aft outboard strakes. The bunks are flush with the transom. FYI, I have a Load Rite trailer with a capacity of 5400 lbs and 7000 lbs GVW - trailer weighs 1600 lbs. Our dealer used this trailer for the 230 BRs and 240 SDs.

Is it a single bunk setup or dual? Any pictures? I might have to pick your brain on some questions I have from buying used.
 

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1990,

The 230BRs of our vintage also have a molded in “tab” along inboard side of the outboard strake. I suspect the “tab” is sitting along the aft portion of the bunk , thereby lifting this section ever so slightly off of the corresponding section of the bunk.
 
1990,

Single bunk setup, with the bunks sitting between strakes one and two. It looks like your bunks are sitting between strakes two and three. If so, your bunks will most likely come in contact with the “tabs”. Also, 230s with a small block have a base weight of 3800 lbs, big blocks with Bravos will be around 200 lbs heavier. This does not include fuel, gear and etc. I am guessing your trailer weighs around 1200 lbs.

Ask away. I’ll see what I can do about pics.
 

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