40 sedan bridge forum

Thanks. Ours is shot and wanted to see what others did before moving forward.

I've searched the web and found a bunch of custom makers locally and nationally.

So you ordered and cut... it was that easy?

Easy enough. It makes a mess, so if you can do it on the dock that's better than doing it in the stateroom. We did it in the stateroom... ugh. It was combersome, but not hard to do. And it was easily 1/10 the cost of a custom mattress. Those are in the thousands. Memory foam mattresses are in the hundreds. It was a no brainer for us. But wow, what a difference!
 
Thanks so much! I checked out your link. I think we may try it in the 'firm' option if we go that route.

If we do go that route I'll definitely do it off of the boat, thanks for the tip.

One more question... I'm assuming you removed the covering to cut and then re-sowed it to the new size/shape?
 
Thanks so much! I checked out your link. I think we may try it in the 'firm' option if we go that route.

If we do go that route I'll definitely do it off of the boat, thanks for the tip.

One more question... I'm assuming you removed the covering to cut and then re-sowed it to the new size/shape?

Yes. But you don't need the perfect seamstress, so don't fret over getting the shape perfect. You're going to put a (deep pocket) fitted sheet over it anyway, which you'll have to tuck under a bit. So if you have a little excess covering, who cares? It gets tucked, too. You just don't want so much it becomes a mound!
 
Yes. But you don't need the perfect seamstress, so don't fret over getting the shape perfect. You're going to put a (deep pocket) fitted sheet over it anyway, which you'll have to tuck under a bit. So if you have a little excess covering, who cares? It gets tucked, too. You just don't want so much it becomes a mound!

Again, thank you!
 
Do our boats have galvanic isolators? If so where are they jammed in..oops..I mean located?
Ps Happy Thanksgiving to all!
Yes. One for each 30 amp line. They are behind the hinged salon power panel. Mounted on the vertical separator.
 
They are behind the hinged salon power panel.
"Hinged salon power panel." What is that? The electrical/power panel on the aft/sliding door wall on the port side? Open the door take the screws out and open the panel?

Thanks in advance.
 
"Hinged salon power panel." What is that? The electrical/power panel on the aft/sliding door wall on the port side? Open the door take the screws out and open the panel?

Thanks in advance.
Yup. Remove the two screws on the left side and it swings out. A little trick is to leave the screws into the panel a bit so you can use them as a handle to swing it out.
 
Yup. Remove the two screws on the left side and it swings out. A little trick is to leave the screws into the panel a bit so you can use them as a handle to swing it out.
Cool! Thanks! We just got the boat in July... still figuring out all the nooks, crannies and other stuff.
 
Has anyone ever tried to remove the cockpit seat rear bolster on their 400DB? I want to have it recovered. Thanks
 
Has anyone ever tried to remove the cockpit seat rear bolster on their 400DB? I want to have it recovered. Thanks
I have. It’s screws in from behind. Open the trunk and you will see some of the screw heads. The rest are inside the electrical panel and inside the plumbing panel. Electrical panel is easily removable so you can reach those. But the plumbing panel is not. I had to drill out a 5” hole in the center of the panel to reach in and get access. It’s a useful hole because it also allows you to work on plumbing fittings as well.

The screw holes through the fiberglass into the bolster are not pre drilled. They just took a drill and rammed them in. My suggestion is to slightly widen the fiberglass hole so the screw will push in without a screwdriver. Makes it easier to pull the bolster tight when you re install it.
 
I have. It’s screws in from behind. Open the trunk and you will see some of the screw heads. The rest are inside the electrical panel and inside the plumbing panel. Electrical panel is easily removable so you can reach those. But the plumbing panel is not. I had to drill out a 5” hole in the center of the panel to reach in and get access. It’s a useful hole because it also allows you to work on plumbing fittings as well.

The screw holes through the fiberglass into the bolster are not pre drilled. They just took a drill and rammed them in. My suggestion is to slightly widen the fiberglass hole so the screw will push in without a screwdriver. Makes it easier to pull the bolster tight when you re install it.


Ok, Great. That is super helpful. Too bad it is difficult to access.
 
Since this group is so helpful, has anyone tried propspeed? I have thought about it but would love to hear about real world results.
 
Since this group is so helpful, has anyone tried propspeed? I have thought about it but would love to hear about real world results.
I applied it this spring before launching. It has performed as advertised in a very high growth area. Last year my running gear would be fouled after just a couple weeks following diver. This year only had diver one time and he stated the barnacles just wiped off. In previous years I used zinc paint and I don’t think it did anything.
 
Re routing galley drain?
Every sink drain goes to the sump box. Unlike the head sink drains, the galley sink drains some very greasy organic stuff into the sump box. As the sink is so far above the waterline I would like to re route the drain directly overboard like other boats I've sailed.
Has anyone already done this or figured out how to best do that?
 
Re routing galley drain?
Every sink drain goes to the sump box. Unlike the head sink drains, the galley sink drains some very greasy organic stuff into the sump box. As the sink is so far above the waterline I would like to re route the drain directly overboard like other boats I've sailed.
Has anyone already done this or figured out how to best do that?

At least a few have done it. It’s straight forward. Measure twice, drill once. Seal the core correctly, those would be the two biggies. I chose to have a “trap” in the hose, some others have not. I have not heard of any fumes getting in their boats without the trap. Your choice.
I put the thru hull the same distance above the boot stripe as the bilge pump discharges for continuity. (Red arrow)
The sink drains a heck of a lot better now too.

3B0E19E2-AC90-4816-BC10-A3CA93FB96F6.jpeg


20FEB80C-839D-4548-861F-8CDCBF2951F6.jpeg
 
No, just took the trash can out. There's room to take the hose off of the tail piece and install new one working through the opening you see in the pic.
 

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