Official 380 Thread

Nauti 97 said:
Is there any way that it could be getting into the hull underneath the false floor in the salon floor storage areas?
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If water did manage to leak underneath the "false floor" it would not explain how it got inside your shower sump pump box, which if I remember was your original issue?

On a boat (sadly) anything is possible but in this case unlikely.....however....if you or the previous owner have drilled any holes in the floor of the bilge (for say mounting a fresh water pump, bow thruster, bow thruster batteries ,wiring strap etc etc) and the hole was not sealed, then yes water can enter that area. It is also possible that a there might be a crack or bad fiberglass layup from the factory that might not be very visible to you that allows water to enter. Take your time with a strong light to fully inspect the area and use a mirror in those areas that you cannot see into.

If your water tank level continues to drop (without you using any water, pump off) and you dont see it in the bilge (use the green food dye) then you have a bigger issue than say the water tank level continues to drop and YOU SEE IT IN THE BILGE (because of the green food dye)....then just trace the leak and fix.

With the fresh water pump off (for 48-72 hours) and If you follow the green food dye method AND you find green dyed water inside your shower sump pump box, then somehow your fresh water system somehow is leaking into your shower drain or your air conditioning condensate drain.

For the sake of this inspection I am assuming you are not connected to city/dockside water via the inlet in the stern.
 
Gallf1 said:
If water did manage to leak underneath the "false floor" it would not explain how it got inside your shower sump pump box, which if I remember was your original issue?

On a boat (sadly) anything is possible but in this case unlikely.....however....if you or the previous owner have drilled any holes in the floor of the bilge (for say mounting a fresh water pump, bow thruster, bow thruster batteries ,wiring strap etc etc) and the hole was not sealed, then yes water can enter that area. It is also possible that a there might be a crack or bad fiberglass layup from the factory that might not be very visible to you that allows water to enter. Take your time with a strong light to fully inspect the area and use a mirror in those areas that you cannot see into.

If your water tank level continues to drop (without you using any water, pump off) and you dont see it in the bilge (use the green food dye) then you have a bigger issue than say the water tank level continues to drop and YOU SEE IT IN THE BILGE (because of the green food dye)....then just trace the leak and fix.

With the fresh water pump off (for 48-72 hours) and If you follow the green food dye method AND you find green dyed water inside your shower sump pump box, then somehow your fresh water system somehow is leaking into your shower drain or your air conditioning condensate drain.

For the sake of this inspection I am assuming you are not connected to city/dockside water via the inlet in the stern.
Click to expand...


Gallf
Thanks for all of the info.
It is all very useful and there are a few things that I am going to do.
Thanks again
 
Is this thread specific to 380 or include the 38 (2008) Sundancer? Can't seem to locate a specific 38 thread. Thanks.
 
Gallf1 said:
If water did manage to leak underneath the "false floor" it would not explain how it got inside your shower sump pump box, which if I remember was your original issue?

On a boat (sadly) anything is possible but in this case unlikely.....however....if you or the previous owner have drilled any holes in the floor of the bilge (for say mounting a fresh water pump, bow thruster, bow thruster batteries ,wiring strap etc etc) and the hole was not sealed, then yes water can enter that area. It is also possible that a there might be a crack or bad fiberglass layup from the factory that might not be very visible to you that allows water to enter. Take your time with a strong light to fully inspect the area and use a mirror in those areas that you cannot see into.

If your water tank level continues to drop (without you using any water, pump off) and you dont see it in the bilge (use the green food dye) then you have a bigger issue than say the water tank level continues to drop and YOU SEE IT IN THE BILGE (because of the green food dye)....then just trace the leak and fix.

With the fresh water pump off (for 48-72 hours) and If you follow the green food dye method AND you find green dyed water inside your shower sump pump box, then somehow your fresh water system somehow is leaking into your shower drain or your air conditioning condensate drain.

For the sake of this inspection I am assuming you are not connected to city/dockside water via the inlet in the stern.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the Info. How would you know if the water lines going to your shower faucet controls or Shower head had a leak. Is there access to them?
 
Nauti 97 said:
Thanks for the Info. How would you know if the water lines going to your shower faucet controls or Shower head had a leak. Is there access to them?
Click to expand...

We had an early freeze before I could get up here and drain the water system. Three things happened.

The icemaker water connection froze and water drained out. It likely froze on the cockpit floor, melted and then ran off before I got up here to check on the boat.

There must have been a chunk of ice in the water tank as the dip tub was broken of right at the top.

The final thing was the shower controls had the copper forced apart. The valve is behind the round escutcheon in the shower. I was able to re-insert the copper fitting and solder it.

Everything has been fine sense I repaired all of that.
 
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Meet too, 2006 38 Sundancer, Best SeaRay we have ever owned. The build quality out of the Florida Yaught factory in 2006 is truly superior to all our previous S/R’s & we loved them too.

Working on the list of winter upgrades, Starting with preventative maintenance, then camper back canvas and if there is any $ left up grade Raymarine E120 ++. Hope to be back in the water April 1st.
 
We guys, it has been a fun and fulfilling 5 years with the 380. A boat broker is coming by the end of the week to do a preview for his customers. If this deal does not work out, we will list the boat.

Moving to a Meridian 391, if I can find one! Do not want any longer of a boat but want to have the salon up as we end up in some drippy weather being up here in the Northwest.

Thanks for all the help with the projects on the boat. This is a great group! Lots of great knowledge here.

Cheers!
 
Bruce SEA 993 said:
We guys, it has been a fun and fulfilling 5 years with the 380. A boat broker is coming by the end of the week to do a preview for his customers. If this deal does not work out, we will list the boat.

Moving to a Meridian 391, if I can find one! Do not want any longer of a boat but want to have the salon up as we end up in some drippy weather being up here in the Northwest.

Thanks for all the help with the projects on the boat. This is a great group! Lots of great knowledge here.

Cheers!
Click to expand...

good luck! I have had my 380 for 3 seasons, and don’t have an itch at all to sell, but I do have an itch to move my boat more south. But there’s time for that
 
jmauld said:
Which axiom do you have? I’m trying to decide between a 12” axiom+ or the axiom Pro.
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Sorry for the delay! I am in the process of over hauling my electronics. I currently have the Axiom 12 installed but an adding an Axiom 9 underneath the 12 and a Axiom 7 in the center dash.
 
bmay1909 said:
Sorry for the delay! I am in the process of over hauling my electronics. I currently have the Axiom 12 installed but an adding an Axiom 9 underneath the 12 and a Axiom 7 in the center dash.
Click to expand...
There’s room to fit all of that?
 
Signed brokerage agreement yesterday at 3PM and have offer in hand at 10AM today...yikes!
 
bmay1909 said:
Sorry for the delay! I am in the process of over hauling my electronics. I currently have the Axiom 12 installed but an adding an Axiom 9 underneath the 12 and a Axiom 7 in the center dash.
Click to expand...

We need pictures!
 
New to me boat. It’s currently out of the water indoors/ heated storage with batteries disconnected. What’s the best way to get the DC side of things to get power? On my last boat 320 DA all I needed to do was hook up an adapter to the shore power cord and I could basically power my lights, dash MFD’s etc.
 
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